City break with kind hearts and minarets; The Great Escape STEVE SWINGLER VISITS THE FASCINATING CITY OF ISTANBUL - A STUNNING MIX OF OLD AND NEW, OF EAST AND WEST.

WHEN it comes to ancient grandeur most people think of Rome, Athens and Egypt.

But make no mistake, Istanbul is right up there with them. Its a fascinating city, a stunning mix of old and new, of East and West.

For more than a Millennium it was the undisputed 'Queen of Cities', the biggest and most important city in the Western world.

It's transformation from a sleepy outpost of the Roman empire into a bustling metropolis came in 330AD when the Roman emperor Constantine converted to Christianity and decided to make the former Greek colony of Byzantium his new capital.

And when Rome finally fell it was Constantinople that carried the burden of running and protecting what remained of the Roman empire.

Built on a peninsula protected on three sides by water the Roman emperor Theodosius built massive walls stretching several miles from shoreline to shoreline in the early 5th century to protect the Imperial capital from a land invasion.

Long stretches of the walls still survive and are mind-boggling in size. They were so immense they made the capital of the Eastern Roman, or Byzantine Empire as it is often called, impregnable for 1,123 years until the Ottoman Turks finally took the city in 1453 - thanks to the use of a giant canon built by an Hungarian engineer.

It's strange to think that while the fall of the Roman empire is generally given as 476AD its remnants actually continued at Constantinople until just 450 years ago.

And while the rest of Europe lurched through the Dark Ages living in little more than mud huts, Constantinople boasted a population of a million people, the majority of which were literate and enjoyed a standard of living unmatched at the time.

The Byzantines also preserved the culture and learnings of the ancient world including the works of classical Greek playrights, mathematicians and philosophers. At the same time they built structures on an enormous scale many of which could not be matched in size or complexity for another 1,500 years.

Yet even after Christian Constantinople fell to the Muslim Turks in the 15th century it remained the capital of a global superpower, acting as the nerve centre of the Ottoman Empire.

The Ottomans stamped their own impressive culture on the city which owed its wealth to its unique geographical position.

The ancient city sits on the European side of the Bosphorus. Just 800 yards on the other side of the water is Asia. Today the modern city of Istanbul straddles both continents - a true crossroads between East and West, not just in terms of trade but also culture.

And you can still sense the aroma of the Orient as well as its Greco-Roman past. This is all the more strange because the city has become a teeming, modern megalopolis of 12 million people.

Yet there is no escaping the past whether it be gazing in amazement at mammoth monuments, catching a glimpse of the ancient walls through overgrown vines or simply taking a pew on ancient marble capitals now used as benches in front of barber shops.

What to see

HAGIA SOPHIA: The awe inspiring church constructed by the Emperor Justinian in 537. It was built to impress boasting rare marble and decorated with magnificent gold Christian mosaics.

The scale is massive. For 1,000 years it was the biggest enclosed space on the planet. It was and still is awesome.

THE BLUE MOSQUE: Built by the Ottomans 1,000 years after Hagia Sophia in a bid to match the Christian church. It doesn't quite manage it but is breathtaking none the less.

THE ANCIENT ROMAN HIPPODROME: This was the social heart of Constantinople and where chariot races were held for hundreds of years.

BASSILICA CISTERN: Built by Emperor Justinian in 532AD this vast underground reservoir is supported by 300 ancient columns. Its very cool both for atmosphere and temperature and used for concerts. Admission pounds 4.

CITY WALLS: Take a walk along parts of the giant land walls, some of which have been restored, to get a true feeling of just how impressive ancient Constantinople was. In particular check out the Golden Gate

TOPKAPI PALACE: Built in 1453 as the residence of the Ottoman sultans - it is one of the best examples to be found of Muslim architecture - opulent and decadent and packed full of treasures and works of art.

Admission is pounds 5 but you should spend a day here and pay the extra pounds 4 to go into the harem with its scores of ornately tiled rooms and fountained courtyards.

THE BOSPHORUS: Take a cruise down the river to gaze at the elegant palaces and villas of the Ottoman Sultans, generals and aristocrats. Boats go from the Eminonu Ferry Terminal. Get off the ferry at OrtakUy, one of the most beautiful areas of Istanbul with small cafAs, street sellers and art galleries.

EATING OUT: The Azzur Restaurant at Movenpick Hotel Istanbul is one of the leading hotel restaurants in town. For lunch try the terrace at the Istanbul Modern Art Museum with fabulous views across the Bosphorous to the ancient city skyline of domes and minarets. The Havuzlu Restaurant in the heart of the Grand Bazaar is also recommended for some traditional Turkish fare.

SHOPPING: The modern Metro City mall in the Levant district has all the usual international chain stores and designers. By complete contrast there is the centuries old Grand Bazaar - a labyrinth of 4,500 little shops all under cover and selling everything from carpets to leather jackets to hashish pipes. You'll probably get lost in there but that's half the fun.

NIGHTLIFE: The quaint Kumkapi Fishermen's Village, where you can eat outdoors at a myriad of little restaurants serenaded by gypsy musicians. The Ulus 29 Restaurant and nightclub - flashy and very expensive where the beautiful people hang out. Dress to impress. The food is also excellent.

Where Stay

I stayed at the Movenpick Hotel Istanbul - a slick 5-star boutique-style hotel that was recently named the Best City Hotel in Turkey. It is the perfect hotel to discover Istanbul, being close the Metro underground system. It also has great views from the bar on the top floor. Two night weekend package arriving on a Friday with buffet breakfast costs just pounds 65 excluding VAT.

For reservations phone toll free 800898317 or go the website at www.moevenpick-hotels.com

For information on other places to stay and visit contact the Turkish Tourist Office on 0207 6297771 or visit www.tourist-offices.org.uk

Getting there

British Airways has regular flights from Heathrow to Istanbul from as low as pounds 99 return. To book visit the British Airways website at www.britishairways.com or phone

CAPTION(S):

AROMA... the famous Spice Market.' CITY... the beautiful Baroque-style mosque that dominates the picturesque Ortakoy district of Istanbul with its small cafes, sellers and art galleries. The breathtaking Blue Mosque built by the Ottomans (inset).