Circulo Vasco Espanol. (Inside Eating Out).

(@) 8 (^) 7 (*) 9 (**) US$20

16 de Septiembre 51

Cal. Centro

Mexico City 

12 p.m. to 8 p.m., seven days a week

Tels.: (5)518-3051, (5)518-2908

There is a great tradition of excellent Spanish food in Mexico City's Centro Historico, and except for one or two unfortunate exceptions (i.e., the Centro Castellano) you won't be disappointed dining at any of them.

Count the Circulo Vasco Espanol in that list of fine Castilian dining. A last bastion of the dying tradition of the three-hour weekday comida, the restaurant boasts a spacious, almost-elegant upstairs dining room that fills up at 2 p.m. with hungry office workers ready to refuel on tequilas and paella. Opened in the 19th century (under a different name), I do wish Circulo Vasco's dining room had replicas of period furniture instead of the boring, non-descript chairs and tables that clash sharply with the high-ceilinged colonial space and elegant stained glass skylight in the foyer. The strange Astroturf that carpets the stairway leading upstairs and insipid pop music that is piped in also detract from what could be a beautiful restaurant. An interior designer would have a field day pointing out the missed potential here: "Daaarling, those gorgeous tall windows, the courtyard foyer! The Sears catalog chairs have just got to go. And what on earth is lining the stairway? It's so Astrodome. I mean, really."

These are small quibbles, however. The food is hearty and excellent, and really, there is something comforting in the well-worn, non-threatening dignity of the place. It is a rest stop in the middle of a chaotic downtown street, and eating upstairs adds to the feeling of being above and beyond the shouts of vendors, honking horns and pushy pedestrians below. Also, the waiters are friendly and attentive.

One person in our party started with the sopa Porrusalda Vasca, a fish-based broth with small chunks of carrots and other vegetables: tasty and warm, and not too heavy.

Our party shared the setas of ajillo con chile guajillo, or Portobello mushrooms in garlic and guajillo chile. This dish was a more natural version than in most other restaurants; you can really taste the earthy mushrooms, only lightly accented by the garlic and chiles.

The Salmon fresco of vino blanco, or fresh salmon in a white wine sauce, was tender and rich. The white wine sauce brought out the distinct flavor of the fish without drowning it in a foreign ingredient.

We rounded out the meal with two cornerstone Spanish meals, the Bacalao espanol a la vizcaina and Paella valenciana. There's no translation for those who aren't familiar with these dishes, and I am tempted to ask where you've been hiding or what you've been eating all your life if you need to know. The bacalao (dried codfish in a tomato concoction sauce-see why I didn't want to translate?) is a Christmas Eve tradition in Mexico, and tasted just as good in October at Circulo Vasco. The psella was one of the best I've ever tasted, although my portion had more pork and chicken than mariscos. Luck of the draw, I guess.

For desert, a rich, sinful flan and coffee, Warning: Circulo Vasco's portions are very generous, in true Spanish style. Stuffed, we made our way back out onto the cacophony of the street and navigated slowly back to our office. Now I can see why the long comida is a custom on its way out Work was the furthest thing from our minds as we struggled not to curl up and take a nap in our cubicles.

(@.) FOOD

1-2 poor to fair

3-4 fair to good

(^.) DECOR

(*.) SERVICE

5-7 good to ver good

8-9 very good to excellent

(**.) COST (IN U.S. DOLLARS)

10 extraordinary to perfection