Chowder: a natural history: do you like New England or Manhattan?

Most chowder-lovers have a strong preference: few would admit to liking both.

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But there's more to the definition of chowder than this cream -versus -tomato rivalry suggests.

A Real Pot-Boiler

Although the origin of the name "chowder" is somewhat mysterious, the history of the soup is a clear, condensed example of culinary evolution. The story begins in the early 17th century on the northwestern coast of France, where preparing seafood in a "chaudiere," or cauldron, was commonplace. Breton sailors who set off for Newfoundland and Nova Scotia kept the tradition alive by preparing cauldrons of fish and salt pork (stew thickened with hardtack). They lived in close proximity to English settlers who adopted the dish as well as, many believe, the name of the vessel in which it was prepared.

Over the next 200 years the dish made its way south into New England. By the end of the 18th century chowder was a staple in the region. At this time the common method of preparation was to layer the ingredients. The bottom of the pot was covered with onions, and then topped with strips of salt pork. Next came a layer of fish, which was seasoned with various herbs, and salt and pepper. Moistened crackers completed the stratification. All was then covered with a combination of wine and water, and stewed for several hours. Early recipes recommend serving boiled potatoes alongside; by the 1840s, the potatoes were included in the pot.

Thinking Outside the Shell

Much like tomato calm chowder, seafood-free chowders began appearing early in the soup's history. In his book 50 Chowders, Jasper White explains that "framhouse chowders" featuring vegetables and meat developed naturally in areas of New England where seafood wasn't readily available. During the 19th century corn chowder became a well-known vairtey: It'sthe only non-seafood chowder inculded in Fannie Farmer's cookbook.

New England corn chowder and its relatives tended to follow the basic recipe for white chowder, which included, salt pork or bascon, onions, patatoes and cream. Within a short time tomato-based vegetable chowders appeared, along with vegetarian versions that omit the pork. Today the only unifying element among chowders appears to be the potato. But that in itself isn't a firm foundation, as it may be starchy or sweet.

The Clam Scam

While chowder-lovers continue their regional dispute, few realize that New England is actually the birthplace of both the red and white varieties. As early as the 1830s, cooks in Connecticut and Rhode Island were adding tomatoes to their fish chowders, to the dismay of their northern neighbors who preferred a milder tasting, heavier dish. Chowders in Massachusetts and Maine had become thick with crackers, butter, and sometimes milk or cream. By the middle of the century, the entire region finally acquired a taste for the clams that were so abundant along the coast, and began adding them to their chowders in place of fish.

No one knows why tomato-based clam chowder became known as Manhattan-style. As recently as 1896, culinary expert Fannie Farmer included her version of the soup as "Connecticut Clam Chowder" in the first edition of "The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book." Nevertheless some historians believe two other events may explain the name change to a degree. By the end of the 1800s, Italian and Portuguese immigrants to the Northeast became partial to the tomato-based clam chowder, which in turn made it more familiar in the large cities where they lived. Then around 1890, two chefs at New York's Delmonico's Restaurant, Alessandro Filippini and Charles Ranhofer, each published a cookbook containing a recipe for tomato clam chowder. Even so, the term "Manhattan clam chowder" didn't appear in print until the 1930s. Once it did, however, New England was pleased to end its association with the despised soup (even though Rhode Island is still making its own chowder-proudly including tomatoes.)

While the clam debate continues, less controversial seafood chowders have quietly become popular. Shellfish, particularly lobster, crab and shrimp, are commonly used, as are meatier fish like monkfish and salmon. Tomato-based conch chowder has become a traditional dish in the Bahamas and the Florida Keys.