Cheese trappings: it's all in the timing.

NOT LONG AGO. If YOU WANTED A GOOD ARTISANAL OR EARMSTEAD CHEESE, YOU MOST LIKELY WERE on the prowl for an import from Europe. However, these days, with Americans' ever-growing interest in handcrafted cheeses, it is easy to find a product of equal or superior quality closer to home. Better late than never, Americans have discovered the native cheeses available in fine dining establishments, specialty shops, organic food markets, and local farm markets across the continent. However, relatively unbeknownst to many, America has been producing regional cheeses of superior quality and taste for well over a century.

Unfortunately, industrially produced cheese and cheese foods have found their way into our homes via less than innovative supermarket chains and heavy-handed marketing tactics aimed at middleclass America. Luckily, however, many retailers today offer a wide variety of both foreign and domestic specialty cheeses that please our increasingly educated palates and evoke Old World flavors. Organic food markets and specialty stores alike take great care in selecting cheeses that rival or equal those found on cheese boards in better restaurants. If you're fortunate enough to frequent one of these shops and want to enhance your experience as well as your knowledge, you should follow some basic rules for buying and storing cheese. These guidelines also apply to cheeses that you'll find at your local farm market.

BUYING Just as we look for the freshest ingredients from trustworthy purveyors to help us create a masterful dish, it is imperative to find dependable sources for cheese. Because we are dealing with a living, breathing organism, buying and handling cheese can be a daunting challenge; therefore, a bit of extra effort is worthwhile. In an ideal world, it would be preferable to purchase cheese from reputable and knowledgeable cheese merchants or mongers who are proud of their product. You can be reasonably assured that the cheeses they sell have been well cared for. Also, reputable cheese mongers won't normally sell you more than you need. In addition, they will not sell you unripe cheese without making you aware of the amount of time needed for the cheese to mature naturally. If you don't have the advantage of building a relationship with a cheese monger, the next best option is to frequent a shop that readily offers you a sampling of different cheeses. Keep in mind, though, the cheese you'll be tasting may hav e just come from being refrigerated, and its true flavors and smells will be somewhat masked. The simple rule for selecting cheese is that a good cheese should look good and taste good. The rind of the cheese and its color are usually indicative of its inner beauty. Usually, an unpretentious, natural exterior indicates a memorable interior. Soft ripened cheeses should not be concave in shape and should be devoid of dry edges and a strong smell of ammonia (a slight ammonia smell is perfectly fine). It is important to note, however, that some high-end cheeses do have strong herbal, floral and fruity aromas; it is essential to depend on your nose to assist in your decision-making as taste sensations can be fairly limiting. When tasting cheese, take note of its moisture content, texture, acidity, and even sodium level. Do the cheese's characteristics meet your expectations? Will the flavor and texture of the cheese work well for its intended use?

If you are purchasing imported cheese, it's critical to know how the cheese was shipped and handled while on its route to you. Whenever possible, check the label to determine the authenticity of the cheese. The label should indicate its name, producer, and origin as well as the region where it was made, the type of milk used, and the fat content; in fact, you should scrutinize cheeses with the same care used when choosing the grape-derived beverages many like to consume with cheese. You can also gain information found on the packaging itself, as well as rind markings when applicable.

STORING Most cheese boards at restaurants offer patrons portions of cheese in 1 to 1 1/2-ounce servings. This portion size should give you a good indication of how much cheese to buy, assuming you are going to eat it soon after your purchase. In other words, don't buy more cheese than you can consume in a reasonable amount of time -- you'll want to enjoy the cheese while it is at its best, and storing cheese can be a tricky business. There are a number of different ways to wrap cheese. Sav-a-wrap (R), aluminum foil, waxed paper; and even dampened cheesecloth are all viable means used to wrap cheese. Plastic wrap often takes a bad "rap" when it comes to cheese storing, as it doesn't allow the cheese to breathe as easily as other wraps. However, used in conjunction with another medium, such as waxed paper, semi-permeable plastic wrap does aid in keeping cheeses in good condition. The trick is to wrap the cheese in the wax paper first so that it has a bit of room to breathe. Goat's milk cheeses or younger cheese s fare far better when stored in containers with tight fitting lids. This storage method allows the cheese to oxidize slowly and enables the cheese to ripen at an even pace. Firmer cheeses, as well as blues, can last for weeks when wrapped tightly in foil.

Options for storing cheese other than in the refrigerator are preferable whenever possible. Because refrigerator temperatures are set low and are intended to keep foods cold, the integrity of a cheese stored in the refrigerator is usually compromised; cold air will dry cheese out, and cheese truly thrives in more moderate temperatures. Maintaining proper humidity levels and temperature when storing cheese is the key to keeping it at its best. It's also important to keep cheese in a relatively light-free space, as too much light will cause cheese to oxidize rapidly and spoil. Thus, a cool, dark, somewhat humid place is ideal for cheese keeping.

"Blessedare the cheese makers."

Monty Python and The Life of Brian.

SERVING

In order to get the truest flavor and textural characteristics from a cheese, it should always be served at room temperature. Once out of the refrigerator, keep the cheese wrapped until you are ready to serve. This way, its surface won't dry out, and the unique characteristics of the cheese will not be lost. When offering a cheese course, it may be best to focus on only a handful of cheeses for your selection -- three or four should be sufficient. Serving too many choices may take away from your guests' tasting experience as the cheeses' flavors could become somewhat undistinguishable and each variety won't get the full attention it deserves.

tasting progression:

simpler - complex

younger - older

lighter - heavier

milder - stronger

CHEESE AS A RECIPE INGREDIENT

Cooking with cheese can become problematic if done without a bit of forethought. Put simply, cheese making involves the addition of acid to the milk used to create cheese. The acid traps the protein molecules found in milk. Once the milk has become cheese, it is vulnerable to extreme temperatures (high heat), overcooking, and the addition of other acids a recipe might call for. These elements cause the protein molecules to lose their cohesiveness and change the structure of the cheese, often making it stringy and tough. Cooking with cheese works well when using techniques that call for low heat and slow cooking. Although many enthusiastic cheese eaters prefer to enjoy it "out of hand," more and more notable chefs have taken an interest in developing dishes that feature cheese as a center stage ingredient.

(Makes 1 1/2 pounds)

Queso Blanco *

(Melts in your mouth, not in your pan)

For the queso blanco:

1 gallon milk

1/4 cup cider vinegar

For the queso blanco: In a large saucepan, warm the milk to 195 degrees, stirring frequently. Once the milk reaches the desired temperature, stir in the cider vinegar. Turn off the heat and let sit for 10 minutes. Strain through a cheesecloth-lined fine mesh sieve. Gather the ends of the cheesecloth to form a ball and squeeze the excess liquid from the cheese. Tie the ends of the cheesecloth together and hang the cheese in the refrigerator over a large pot. Let drain for one hour.

* QUESO BLANCO IS ALSO AVAILABLE IN LATIN AMERICAN MARKETS.

RESOURCES:

Coach Farm

105 Mine Hill Road

Pine Plains, New York 12567

Phone: [phone]

Goat's cheese and dairy products

Cypress Grove Chevre, Inc.

4600 Dows Prairie Road McKinleyville, California 95521

Phone: [phone]

Fresh and aged goat's milk cheeses

Major Farm

875 Patch Road Putney, Vermont 05346

Phone: [phone]

Sheep's and cow's milk cheeses

Maytag Dairy Farms

Box 806 Newton, Iowa 50208

Phone: [phone]

Maytag Blue, Cheddar, Edam

Old Chatham Sheepherding Company

155 Shaker Museum Road Old Chatham, New York 12136

Phone: [phone]

Sheep's milk cheeses

Quillisascut Cheese

2409 Pleasant Valley Road Rice, Washington 99167

Phone: [phone]

Goat's and cow's milk cheeses

Vella Cheese Company, Inc.

315 Second Street East P.O. Box 191 Sonoma, California 95476

Phone: [phone]

Jack, Dry Jack, Asiago, raw milk Cheddar

FORLEY & OISUKA

diane michael

VERBENA RESTAURANT NEW YORK, NY

The husband and wife team, Michael Otsuka and Diane Forley, are passionate about truly great food that integrates and honors their widely diverse cultures. Born of Japanese-American and Austrian parents, Otsuka brings a sense of traditional Japanese flair to the table while Forley draws inspiration from her Egyptian, Guatemalan, and Hungarian background. Both have worked with some of the greats in the States as well as in France. Their shared vision has enabled them to become two of the most widely respected chefs in the industry. Their successful collaboration at Verbena is testament to many hours of hard work, a love for what they do, and a deep sense of commitment to both the restaurant and to each other: "When Diane and I decided to work together, Verbena had been open for about seven years. We started to look at ways to introduce ourselves as a team. One way was to create a more relaxed approach to the existing food program as well as the look and feel of the dining room. The restaurant had been founded on a white tablecloth dining experience with a feeling of formality. We decided to adjust this -- keeping things elegant but bringing in some warmth. We had Diane's brother, who originally designed Verbena, come in and design new tabletops made from cork and had custom made linen runners to take the place of the more formal white table cloths. Seems like a simple concept but it made a huge difference in the look and feel of the room. In terms of the food, we added different sections to the menu and added more side dishes and fish that could be shared. We also simplified the menu item descriptions -- doing away with explaining techniques or where a particular product was from -- without letting the food become less complex. in terms of thought or delivery. We found by doing this, that people were able to digest the menu a bit easier, which of course parlays into a more relaxed atmosphere.

As co-executive chefs of Verbena, Otsuka and Forley unanimously agree that the key to running a successful business must be based on a foundation of respect for both their staff and diners. As Otsuka puts it, "One of the biggest things that we try to drive home to our staff is that no matter how well we can cook or how great individual talent is, the quality of the end product won't shine through unless we work in concert -- the guest won't get the impression of any one person's talent if we aren't all working together. We need to appreciate the fact that, by in large, people are affected by the whole dining experience. It doesn't matter if you can make the best sauce in the world; if you don't have a gracious front-of-the-house staff -- you're never going to see that diner again. You can't practice your craft unless you have the support of your full team and they all understand what you're trying to achieve, It's very important that Diane and I create a working environment that makes people feel professional ly respected, especially since restaurant work can be so consuming." Forley agrees: "If the staff feels this, they are able to give this sense to the customers so that they feel like they've been taken care of as well."

WHITE & KATZ

Michael Elizabeth

HAMMA OSTERIA NEW YORK NEW YORK

Michael White began studying Italian cooking well before he knew it would be his vocation: "I've been interested in Italian food as long as I can remember. As a matter of fact, I can remember seeing my Dad in the kitchen most weekends making sauce. Growing up in the mid-West, there were a lot of Sicilian restaurants and on Friday nights, everyone would go out for Italian food. It was pretty popular fare. I was also interested in football early on but a knee injury forced me to rethink my career options, and I decided to go to culinary school instead. Before attending cooking school, I worked at Spiaggia Restaurant in Chicago -- pretty much working all of the stations -- then continued to work there during school. So, the passion was there from the start."

Training with the likes of Paul Bartolotta and Valentino Marcatilli only heightened Chef White's interest in ingredients and cooking styles indigenous to Italy, so much so that he logged some unbelievable mileage back and forth between the states and Italy during the course of about eight years: "I had the good fortune to work with Paul Bartolotta while at Spiaggia, and it was at his urgings that I ventured to Italy to work in a couple of kitchens. I'd only planned on staying for a couple of months, but a couple turned into ten. I ended up going back and forth from the States to Europe on and off for quite a while and eventually ended up working with Chef Marcatillii at Ristorante San Domenico in Imola, Italy. In 1995, Chef Marcatilli offered me the Chef di Cucina position, which was truly an honor. It wasn't all that common for an American chef to get this position in Italy."

Joining forces with restaurateur Stephen Hanson in 2002, Chef White opened Fiamma, a high-end Italian restaurant in New York City. Realizing the tough physical and mental attitude it would take to make it in New York, Chef White was, nonetheless, undaunted: "Working in New York was something that I always had in the back of my mind. Having traveled and worked for over eight years in Europe and eaten in many, many restaurants in many, many cities, I can honestly say that New York City is the food mecca of the world. The song phrase, 'If you can make it there, you can make it anywhere,' really rings true when it comes to having a successful restaurant in the city. And, in the end, it can be very rewarding if you do make it here."

Though Italian cuisine and cheese may go hand and hand, White does not take Americans' awareness of cheese's many virtues for granted. His opinions on the subject matter are those he shares graciously with his diners, via his culturally intact meals: "Cheese is something that is so essential to your health but is not such an integral part of the American diet. Using cheese in a dish comes easy for me -- it's an important part of the dish itself. And, there are so many Italian cheeses -- every region in Italy has a different type of cheese and that's the beauty of the Italian kitchen. I think more people are eating a variety of cheeses but we have a ways to go. I hope that my diners come away from the restaurant feeling that they had something that was exceptionally Italian. I want them to taste hand-made fresh pastas with great cheeses -- that is really the joy of cooking for me -- their total experience.

For Executive Pastry Chef Elizabeth Katz, the path to Fiamma took a bit of a different route. Baking for her parents' gourmet food store in New Rochelle, New York, Katz was introduced to high-end ingredients early in life. Soon after graduating from The Culinary Institute of America, Katz hit the streets of New York City in pursuit of employment at a four star restaurant: "I simply waked around with my resume and dropped it off at about seven different places and Daniel was one of them. At first there were no openings, but I was able to trail off and on. An opening finally came about and I started there at the very bottom, working my way up to so us chef in about three months. I spent two wonderful years at Daniel and knew my time working there would help me get into a place like Fiamma, where I eventually wanted to be."

Chef Katz's past experience has allowed her to ascend to a career that utilizes her extensive knowledge of ingredients combined with a flair for the creative. With dessert sales at the restaurant averaging about 60% a night, Chef Katz is confident that her customers leave Fiamma well fed and happy.

Five Tastes of Cheese

(Serves 6)

diane forley & michael otsuka

ingredients

For the croque monsieur:
10 slices white bread, crusts removed
1/4 mascarpone cheese
1 talespoon chopped chives
1/4 pound fontina cheese, grated
1/4 pound smoked black forest ham, sliced
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
3 eggs
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the onion soup:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig parsley
1 bay leaf
2 yellow onions, peeled and finely sliced
1/4 cup sweet Marsala
1 1/2 cups beef stock
1 small black truffle
6 1/2-inch slices baguette, toasted
3 ounces Sottocenare cheese *
Salt and pepper to taste

For the cucumber cups:
1 seedless cucumber, peeled and cut into six 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup cream
4 ounces fresh goat cheese
1 medium pickled beet, sliced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the tartine:
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup dried apricots, sliced
1/4 teaspoon ground fennel
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
6 1/2-inch slices baguette, sliced on the diagonal and toasted
6 1/4-inch slices Caprice de Blanche cheese *

Fennel seeds
For the pickled black peppercorns:
1/2 cup Champagne vinegar
1/2 cup white wine
1 cup water
1/2 cup black peppercorns
1/2 cup sugar

For the souffles:
2 ounces all-purpose flour
2 ounces unsalted butter
6 ounces milk
3 tablespoons grated Capri de Valentina cheese *
2 egg yolks
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 egg whites
6 1/4-inch slices Chaput briquette cheese
2 teaspoons rosemary oil
Salt and pepper to taste

* Available through Murray's Cheese Shop at [phone].

For the croque monsieur: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Butter a 6 x 4 x 4-inch loaf pan and line with parchment paper. Arrange a layer of bread in the bottom of the pan. Spread a thin layer of mascarpone cheese over the bread. Sprinkle the chives on top, followed by the grated fontina cheese. Place the ham over the top of the fontina to complete the first layer. Repeat the layers two more times, ending with a final layer of bread. In a bowl, whisk the milk, cream, and eggs together to form a custard. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and season with salt and pepper. Pour the custard over the croque monsieur and place in the refrigerator for two hours. Place the croque monsieur in a hot water bath and bake until set, about one hour. Let cool in the loaf pan. Unmold the croque monsieur and cut into half-inch slices. In a saute pan, heat the olive oil. Lightly brown the slices on all sides. Allow the slices to cool; cut them into half-inch pieces and skewer with toothpicks. Place the skewers on a sheet pan and reheat before serving. Place the heated skewers in miso soup spoons.

For the onion soup: In a large saute pan, heat the butter. Add the thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Acid the onions and saute until tender and caramelized. Add the Marsala and simmer until reduced by half. Add the beef stock; bring to a simmer and cook for five minutes. Remove the thyme, parsley, and bay leaf and discard. Cut four slices from the truffle and .reserve for garnish. Grate the remaining truffle into the soup. Place six ramekins on a sheet pan and fill each with the soup. Top each with a toasted baguette slice. Grate a generous layer of the Sottoncenare cheese over the baguette slices and place the filled ramekins underneath a broiler until the cheese is golden brown. Top each of the ramekins with a slice of the black truffle.

Far the cucumber cups: Scoop out the center flesh from the inside of the cucumber pieces to form six cups. In a bowl, combine the cream with the goat cheese and season. Fill a whipped cream siphon with the cheese mixture and let rest upside down for one hour. Place the cucumber cups in individual ramekins. Dispense the cheese mixture into the cucumber cups; garnish with the sliced beets and peppercorns and refrigerate.

For the tartine: Place the lemon juice, one-quarter cup of golden raisins, and one-quarter cup of dried apricots in a bowl. Cover and steam until softened, about five minutes. Transfer to a food processor fitted with a metal blade and puree until fine. Add the ground fennel and white pepper and stir to combine. Place in the refrigerator until chilled, about five minutes. Spread each of the baguette slices with the pureed fruit mixture. Place a slice of the Caprice de Blanche cheese on top of each of the baguette slices. Garnish with the remaining apricots, raisins, and whole fennel seeds.

For the pidded black peppercorns: In a sauce pan, combine all of the ingredients.

Bring to a simmer and cook until the peppercorns have softened. Drain and garnish the cucumber cups with the peppercorns.

For the souffles: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Prepare six molds with softened unsalted butter and grated .cheese and place on a sheet pan. In a small saucepan, add the flour and butter and cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, about two minutes. Add the milk; bring to a simmer and cook until thick, about five minutes. Remove from the heat; add the Capri de Valentina cheese and stir until the cheese has melted. Let cool slightly. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, and mix until well combined. Season with the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks. Gently fold the egg whites into the batter, one-third .at a time. Fill the prepared molds three-quarters full. Bake until puffy and brown, about seven to ten minutes. Top with a slice of the Chaput briquette cheese and drizzle with the rosemary oil. Serve immediately.

To serve: Arrange on a long platter from left to right: a souffle, a cucumber cup, a tartine, an onion soup and a croque monsieur.

Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee Blanc de Noirs Sonoma, California 1998

Parmesan Vacca Rossa Broth with Spring Vegetables

(Serves 4)

diane forley & michael otsuka

ingredients

For the broth:
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 onions, peeled and sliced
1/2 bunch celery, peeled and chopped
2 leeks, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
2 quarts white chicken stock
1 sachet (prosciutto, 1 6-inch piece
Parmesan rind, oregano, thyme)
Salt and pepper to taste

For the vegetables:
4 asparagus tips, blanched
4 baby zucchini, blanched and sliced
4 baby carrots, trimmed, peeled and blan
4 baby corn, blanched
4 pearl onions, blanched and halved
4 artichoke hearts, blanched and halved
12 yellow wax beans, blanched
12 haricots verts, blanched
12 sugar snap peas, blanched

For the garnish:
Sourdough bread slices sprinkled with Pa
 and toasted
Oven dried tomatoes, sliced
Duck prosciutto, sliced
Parsley sprigs
Extra virgin olive oil

For the broth: In a saucepan, heat the oil. Add the onions, celery, leeks, and garlic and cook until the onions are translucent. Add the tomatoes, stock, sachet and pepper. Simmer for one hour; strain through a fine mesh sieve and season with salt.

For the vegetables: Place the vegetables in the heated broth and warm through.

To serve: Spoon the broth with vegetables into soup bowls. Garnish with the Parmesan cheese toasts, oven dried tomatoes, duck prosciutto, and parsley sprigs. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.

Wild Mushroom and Whole Milk Ricotta Raviolo

diane forley & michael otsuka

ingredients

For the pasta dough:
8 ounces soft wheat flour
2 eggs, beaten
1/4 teaspoon salt
Egg wash, as needed

For the filling:
3 ounces unsalted butter
3 cups assorted wild mushrooms
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
1/2 tablespoon thyme leaves, chopped
1/2 tablespoon, parsley leaves, chopped
1/3 cup heavy cream
4 ounces whole milk ricotta cheese
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sauce:
1/2 cup black truffle juice
1/2 cup vegetable stock
1/4 cup unsalted butter
2 leeks, white part only, 1-inch julienned pieces, blanched

For the garnish:
1 small black truffle, shaved
Basil oil

Directions

For the pasta dough: In a medium bowl, mix together all of the ingredients until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, about ten minutes. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for one hour. Divide the dough into four pieces and roll each through a pasta machine several times, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the second to thinnest setting. Cut the pasta dough into four 5 x 7-inch rectangles Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan; cover and set aside

For the filling; In a saute pan, heat the butter. Add the mushrooms and cook until tender and browned. Add the shallot and cook until lightly caramelized. Season with salt and pepper. Add the thyme, parsley, are heavy cream. Bring to a simmer and reduce until the cream is almost dry Transfer to a sheet pan and place in the refrigerator to chill, about thirty minutes. Place the mixture in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and pulse until coarsely chopped. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and fold in the ricotta cheese. Adjust seasonings and transfer the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a round tip.

To assemble the raviolo: Arrange the pasta rectangles on a flat work surface and brush the edges with egg wash. Pipe the ricotta filling across the lower third of the rectangles. Fold the lower third of the rectangles up and over the filling and seal the edges. Brush the bottom edges with egg wash. Bring the edges around to meet and form a circle and press the edges to seal.

For the sauce: In a saucepan, combine the truffle juice and stock. Bring to a simmer and reduce to one-quarter cup. Whisk in the butter. Add the leeks and simmer until warmed through.

To finish the raviolo: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the raviolo and simmer until cooked, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and drain.

To serve: Place a raviolo in the center of a large soup bowl. Fill the center. of the raviolo with the leeks and spoon a portion of the sauce around the raviolo. Garnish with the black truffle shavings and drizzle the bowl with basil oil.

Barbaresco, Pasquero Elia

Sore Paitin

Piedmont, Italy 1997

Lamnb Schoulder Pave with Aligot Potatoes

(Serves 6)

diane forley & michael otsuka

ingredients

For the lamb shoulder pave:
1-3-pound lamb shoulder
1/2 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
2 springs rosemary
2 bay leaves
1 onion, peeled and diced
2 ribs clery, diced
1 leek, white part only, diced
1/4 cup tomato paste
3 quarts lamb stock
1/2 bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped
2 sprigs lemon thyme, stemmed and chopped
1/2 pound caul fat
Salt and pepper to taste
Oil as needed

For the aligot potatoes:
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and diced
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 cup grated Laguiole cheese
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the garnish:
6 lamb bones, cleaned and roasted
Mustard greens
Rosemary sprigs, blanched and stemmed

* Available through Murray's Cheese Shop at [phone].

For the lamb shoulder pave: In a bowl, combine the lamb with one-quarter cup of the olive oil, garlic, rosemary, and bay leaves. Allow the lamb to marinate in the refrigerator overnight. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a saute pan, heat two tablespoons of the olive oil and sear the lamb on all sides until browned. In a roasting pan, heat the remaining olive oil. Add the onion, celery, and leek and saute until well browned and caramelized. Add the lamb, tomato paste, and lamb stock. Cover and place in the oven; cook until very tender, about three hours. Remove the lamb from the liquid and set aside, keeping warm. Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve. Measure out four cups of the stock and place in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer and reduce to one cup. In a bowl, shred the lamb meat with a fork and combine with the parsley, thyme, salt, pepper, and the reduced lamb stock. Press the meat mixture into a 10 x 4 x 4inch loaf pan and chill until firm. Unmold the lamb and cut into 5 x 2-inch paves. On a flat surface, lay out four sheets of caul fat and wrap each of the paves. Tie each pave around the center with butcher's twine and continue to tie outward from the center in one-inch intervals to the ends of the pave.

For the aligot potatoes: In a saucepan filled with salted boiling water, add the potatoes and cook until tender. Drain the potatoes and puree through a food mill while they are still warm. In a saucepan, heat the potatoes with the heavy cream, milk, and butter. Fold in the Laguiole cheese and stir until well combined. Season with salt and white pepper and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the lamb shoulder pave: Adjust the oven temperature to 450 degrees. On a sheet pan, brush each pave with olive oil and roast, turning every five minutes until browned, about fifteen minutes.

To serve: Set a roasted lamb bone off center on a round plate. Top with a pave. Spoon a portion of the aligot potatoes on one side of th pave and garnish with the mustard greens Sprinkle with blanched rosemary leaves.

Choleau Clinet Pomerol France 1989

Hucklebeery Pavlova with Mascarpone Cream

(Serves 8)

diane forley & michael otsuka

ingredients

For the meringue:
1 ounce unsalted butter, softened
10 egg whites
12 ounces confectioners' sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 teaspoons white vinegar
2 teaspoons potato starch

For the huckleberries:
2 cups huckleberries
1/4 cup elderflower syrup
2 lemons, juiced

For the mascarpone cream:
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup water
4 egg yolks
12 ounces mascarpone cheese
1 cup heavy cream, whipped

* Available through Haram Christensen at (201) 507- 8544.

For the meringue: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and butter. In an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, add the egg whites and whip to soft peaks. Add the sugar and continue to whip to stiff peaks. Fold the vanilla, vinegar, and potato starch into the egg white mixture. Spread the egg white mixture onto the sheet pan in an even 1-inch layer and bake for txvcnty minutes. Let the meringue cool and cut into sixteen 3-inch rounds.

For the huddeberries: In a saucepan, combine the huckleberries, elderfloxver syrup, and lemon juice. Cook the mixture over very low heat until the berries turn dark purple, about ten to twelve minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the mascarpone cream: In a saucepan, combine the sugar; salt, and water. Heat the mixture to 240 degrees. In an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks until they lighten in color, about five minutes. Add the sugar syrup in a thin, steady stream and continue to mix until cooled. Add the mascarpone and whip for an additional three minutes. Fold in the whipped cream and transfer the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a star tip.

To serve: Pipe a base of the mascarpone cream in the center of a shallow bowl and place a meringue round on top. Pipe another layer of mascarpone cream followed by another round and top with one more piping of mascarpone cream. Spread huckleberries around the base and top of the Pavlova. Drizzle .the top with the huckleberry syrup.

Chianli Classico

Castello di Ama

Tuscany, Italy 1997

Ricotta Cannelloni with Porcini Mushrooms

(Serves 4)

michael white

directions

For the cannelloni dough:
16 ounces soft wheat flour
5 eggs, beaten
1/4 teaspoon salt

For the ricotta filling:
1 pound sheep's milk ricotta cheese
1/2 cup grated parmigiano-reggiano
1/2 cup grated pecorino toscano
1 whole egg
Salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste

For the sauce:
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
6 ounces sliced porcini mushrooms
6 ounces sliced hedge hog mushrooms
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 ounce chopped white truffle
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Parmigiano-reggiano ,grated
1 white truffle, sliced
1 red bell pepper, seeded, diced, and balanced
Chervil sprigs

For the cannelloni dough: In a medium bowl, mix together ali of the ingredients until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, about ten minutes. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for one hour. Divide the dough into three pieces and roll each through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the second to thinnest setting. Cut each of the pasta sheets into four 5 x 5-inch wide squares. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta squares and simmer until just cooked. Remove from the heat; strain, and set aside.

For the ricotta filling: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and season with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag and place in the refrigerator.

For the sauce: In a medium saucepan, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms; season and cook for five minutes. Deglaze with the white wine. Add the chicken stock and cook for ten minutes. Stir in the white truffle and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the dish: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Arrange the pasta squares on a flat work surface and pipe the ricotta filling across the bottom half of the squares. Roll to enclose the filling. Place in a buttered baking dish and bake until just warmed through.

To serve: Place three of the cannelloni in the center of a plate. Spoon a portion of the sauce on top. Garnish with the grated parmigiano-reggiano, sliced truffle, red pepper, and chervil sprigs.

directions

Barbera d'Alba

Vielli Storrone Vigna Vecchia

Piedmonte, Italy 1999

Robiola Cheese Tortelli with Bottarga

(Serves 4)

Michael White

ingredients

For the basil oil:
1 bunch basil, stemmed, blanched, and shocked
1 cup olive oil

For the pasta dough:
16 ounces soft wheat flour
5 eggs, beaten
1/4 teaspoon salt

For the robiola filling:
1 pound robiola cheese
1/4 cup parmigiano-reggiano
Salt, white pepper, and nutmeg to taste
Water as needed

For the sauce:
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 small garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 sprig basil, stemmed and chopped
10 ounces peeled, seeded and diced tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
1 ounce bottarga, gated
Micro arugula *

* Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

directions

For the basil oil: Transfer the blanched basil to a paper towel and pat well to dry.

In a blender, mix together the basil and olive oil until smooth. Pour into a cheesecloth-lined mesh sieve suspended over a bowl and tie the ends to enclose. Place in the refrigerator over night to drain. Discard the cheesecloth and reserve the oil.

For the pasta dough: In a medium bowl, mix together all of the ingredients until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, about ten minutes. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for one hour. Divide the dough into four pieces and roll each through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the second to thinnest setting. Using a 2-inch ring mold, cut out 24 rounds; place on a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside.

For the robiola filling; In a medium bowl, mix together the robiola cheese and parmigiano-reggiano to combine. Season with the salt, white pepper, and nutmeg. Brush the edges of the pasta rounds with water; place a teaspoon of filling in the center and fold in half to enclose and seal the .edges. Holding the pasta curved side up, tuck the edges under and pinch to secure. Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan; cover and place in the refrigerator.

For the sauce: In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and basil and saute for one minute. Add the tomatoes and cook for another eight to ten minutes. Using a hand-held immersion blender, puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve,. season and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the tortelli: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the tortelli and simmer until cooked. Remove from the heat and strain.

To serve: Spoon a portion of the sauce in the center of a plate. Arrange the tortelli on top of the sauce and garnish with the grated bottarga and micro arugula. Drizzle the basil oil around the plate.

Fiano di Avellino

TerreDora

Compagnia, Italy 2001

Thin Ribbon Pasta with Piave Cream and Radicchio

(Serves 4)

michael white

ingredients

For the pasta dough:
16 ounces soft wheat flour
5 eggs, beaten
1/4 teaspoon salt

Far the sauce:
4 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, peeled and finely minced
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely minced
2 ounces julienned radicchio
1/4 bunch thyme leaves
3 ounces julienned speck
3 ounces julienned smoked prosciutto
1/2 cup chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pia'ire cream:
3 ounces grated piave cheese
1/4 cup chicken stock, hot
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

For the garnish:
Fennel fronds
Small black truffle
Piave cheese, grated
Black pepper

directions For the pasta dough: In a medium bowl, mix together all of the ingredients until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, about ten minutes. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for one hour. Divide the dough into four pieces and roll each through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the second to thinnest setting. Cut the pasta sheets into 1/8-inch wide strips.

For the sauce: In a medium saucepan, heat the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and lightly saute for one minute. Add the radicchio, thyme, speck, prosciutto, and chicken stock and cook for another eight to ten minutes. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the piave cream: In a blender, add the piave. Pour the chicken stock over the piave and blend on high speed. With the machine running, gradually add the olive oil until emulsified.

To finish the pasta: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and simmer until cooked. Remove from the heat and strain. Add the pasta to the sauce and toss to coat.

To serve: Spoon a portion of the piave cream onto the center of a plate. Top with a mound of pasta and garnish with the fennel fronds. Grate black truffle around the pasta and sprinkle with the grated piave cheese and freshly ground black pepper.

Montefalco Poolo Bea Umbria, Italy 1999

Ricotta Veignets with Amaretti Cookies

(Serves 6)

Elizabeth Katz

ingredients

For the amaretti cookies:
4 ounces almond flour
2 ounces confectioners' sugar
1/2 ounce all-purpose flour
1 egg white
3 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon almond extract

For the creme anglaise:
4 ounces milk
4 ounces heavy cream
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 egg yolks

For the ganache:
4 ounces heavy cream
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate

For the caramel apple sauce:
2 ounces brown sugar
1 ounce corn syrup
1 ounce unsalted butter
1 Gala apple, peeled, cored, and diced
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 ounces heavy cream

For the lemon crud:
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
2 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces lemon juice
1 ounce unsalted butter, diced

For the ricotta beignets:
7 ounces ricotta cheese
3 eggs
2 ounces granulated sugar
3 ounces all-purpose flour
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
3 ounces reserved
 amaretti cookies

For the garnish:
Lemon zest
Apple chips
Sugared vanilla beans
Torroncino, finely ground *
Wooden skewers

* Available thorugh most pastry supply companies

directions

For the amaretti cookies: Preheat the oven, to 250 degrees. In a bowl, combine the almond flour, confectioners' sugar, and all-purpose flour and mix to combine. Place the egg white and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer and whisk until doubled in size. Fold in the flour mixture and extract and transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip. Pipe into two-inch circles onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Bake until lightly browned and dried, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Transfer the cookies to a food processor and pulse until finely ground. For the creme anglaise: In a saucepan, combine the milk, heavy cream, one ounce of the sugar, and the vanilla bean. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining sugar and egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks into the hot cream and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, remove, from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set over an ice bath until chilled and place in the refrigerator.

For the ganache: In a saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil. Place the chocolate in a bowl. Pour the cream over the chocolate and stir until well combined. For the caramel apple sauce: In a saucepan, combine all of the ingredients except for the heavy cream. Bring the temperature to 245 degrees. Add the heavy cream and boil to reduce slightly, about four minutes.

For the lemon curd: Bring a medium saucepan filled halfway with water to a boil; reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, sugar; and lemon juice. Place the bowl over the simmering water; making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water; and continue to beat until the eggs thicken. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Add the butter and whisk to combine.

For the ricotta beignets: Preheat the fryer to 375 degrees. In a bowl, combine the ricotta and eggs and mix until thoroughly combined. Add the remaining ingredients and transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip. Pipe thirty 2-inch circles onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Place the beignets into the fryer until puffed and golden brown. Remove from the heat and place on a paper towel-lined sheet pan.

To serve: Arrange 5 ricotta beignets in a ramekin with two wooden skewers and place in the center of a plate. Spoon a portion of the lemon curd, caramel apple sauce, creme anglaise, and ganache into four individual ramekins and place next to the beignets. Garnish the lemon curd with lemon zest, the caramel apple sauce with an apple chip, the creme anglaise with a sugared vanilla bean, and the ganache with the Torroncino.

Vin Santa

Isole e Dleana

Tuscany, Italy 1996

Organe Confit with Crecenza Crostada

(Serves 6)

Elizabeth Katz

ingredients

For the citrus sorbet:
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup lime juice

For the orange con fit slices:
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
2 oranges, sliced 1/8-inch thick

For the tuiles:
1 1/2 ounces unsalted butter, softened
2 ounces confectioners' sugar, sifted
1 1/2 ounces egg whites
1 3/4 ounce cake flour, sifted

For the crostada:
3/4 cup confectioners' sugar
8 ounces unsalted butter
1 egg
Zest of 1 orange
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 ounces Crecenza cheese *

For the mint syrup:
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/8 cup water
1/2 cup mint leaves

For the garnish:
Sugar sticks
Mint sprigs
Julienned mint

* Available through Murray's Cheese Shop at [phone]

Note: This tuile recipe yields approximately forty-five 2 1/2- inch
cookies

directions

For the citrus sorbet: In a saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Bring to a boil to dissolve the sugar, remove from the heat, and let cool. Add the orange, lemon, and lime juice and whisk to combine. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the orange confit slices: In a saucepan, combine the sugar and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and add the orange slices, cover the oranges with parchment paper and simmer until tender, about one hour. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the liquid.

For the tuiles: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine the butter and sugar and mix until thoroughly combined. Add the egg whites and mix until combined. Add the flour and mix until combined. Spread the mixture into six 2 1/2-inch ovals on a silpat-lined sheet pan and bake until golden brown.

For the crostada: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the sugar and butter and mix until light and lemon colored. Add the egg and mix to combine. Add the orange zest, flour and salt, and mix until just combined. Cover and place in the refrigerator until chilled, about thirty minutes. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and roll to 1/4-inch thickness, Cut out six 5 1/2 -inch circles and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Refrigerate until chilled. Line six 4 1/2-inch fluted tart molds with the dough and bake until golden brown, about ten minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Place the cheese in a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip. Unmold the tart shells and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Pipe one ounce of the cheese into each tart. Arrange a few of the orange confit slices on top of the cheese.

Far the tuiles: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and honey and beat on high speed until smooth and creamy, about three minutes. On a sheet of parchment paper sift together the flour and sugar. Add the sifted ingredients and egg whites in several stages, scraping down the sides of the bowl between each addition. Spread the mixture into six ovals on a silpat-lined sheet pan and bake until golden brown.

For the mint syrup: In a saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Bring to a boil to dissolve the sugar; remove from the hea and transfer to a blender. Add the mint leaves and blend until combined.

To serve: Set a crostada to one side of a plate and sprinkle with julienned mint Place a tuile next to the crostada and top with a large quenelle of sorb et. Garnish the sorbet with a mint sprig and sugar stick. Drizzle the plate with the mint syrup

Moscato de Pantelleria Salvatore Murana Sitily, Italy 1999

Hazelnut Mascarpono Torta

(Serves 8)

Elizabeth Katz

ingredients

For the mascarpone sorbet:
1 cup milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
10 ounces mascarpone cheese, room temperature

For the puff pastry base:
8 ounces milk chocolate
8 ounces hazelnut paste
16 onces baked puffed pastry, crushed

For the devil's food cake:
3 1/2 ouncs all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 ounces unsalted butter
4 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1 once cocoa powder
1 egg
4 ounces warm water

For the chocolate cream:
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
3 ounces milk
3 ounces heavy cream
2 egg yolks
1 ounce granulated sugar
1 sheet gelatin, softened in cold water

For the mascarp one sabayon:
2 ounces milk
2 ounces hazelnut paste
1 sheet gelatin, softened in cold water
4 egg whites
4 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce water
4 ounces heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
2 egg yolks
4 ounces mascarpone cheese, room temperature

For the croquant:
4 ounces granulated sugar
1 tablespoon water
1/2 cup hazlenuts, toasted
To assemble the torta:
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted
4 ounces cocoa butter, melted

For the garnish:
Bittersweet chocolate ribbons
Candied hazelnuts
Chocolate sauce

directions

For the mascarpone sorbet: In a saucepan, combine the milk, heavy cream, sugar, and vanilla bean. Simmer over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved, about two minutes. Bring to a boil; remove from the heat and set aside for 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled. Remove the vanilla bean. Add the mascarpone and transfer to an ice cream machine. Freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. Scoop eight 1-ounce balls of sorbet, roll in the crushed puff pastry, and place in the freezer.

For the puff pastry base: Arrange eight 2 1/2-inch ring molds on a parchment-lined sheet pan and line with acetate strips. Bring a medium saucepan filled halfway with water to a boil; reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. Place the milk chocolate in a separate bowl and place over the simmering water. Add the hazelnut paste and crushed puffed pastry and stir to combine. Transfer the mixture to a parchment-lined half sheet pan. Place in the freezer until firm. Cut out eight 2 1/2-inch circles and place one in each of the prepared molds.

For the devil's food cake: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into a bowl. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and sugar until light and lemon colored. Add the cocoa powder, egg, and flour mixture in several stages, scraping down the sides of the bowl in between each addition. Slowly add the water and mix .until combined. Pour the batter onto a parchment-lined 9 1/2 x 13-inch sheet pan and bake until done, about 16 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Cut out eight 2 1/2-inch rounds and set aside.

For the chocolate cream: Place the chopped chocolate into a bowl. In a saucepan, combine the milk and cream and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar and whisk to combine. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered yolks into the hot cream and place over a double boiler, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, mix in the gelatin and strain through a fine mesh sieve over the chopped chocolate. Whisk gently to combine and place the bowl over an ice bath. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip.

For the mascarpone sabayon: In a saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. Add the hazelnut paste and whisk to combine. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and mix in the gelatin. Place the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer and whisk to soft peaks. In a saucepan, combine two ounces of the sugar and water and bring to 250 degrees. With the mixer running, slowly add the sugar mixture in a thin steady stream. Mix until cooled and thick. Bring a medium saucepan filled halfway with water to a boil; reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a separate bowl, whisk together the remaining sugar with the egg yolks. Place the bowl over the simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water, and continue to beat until the eggs thicken. Remove from the heat and place over an ice bath until chilled, whisking constantly. Using a rubber spatula, fold the egg whites into the milk mixture and then fold in the egg yolk mixture. Fold in the whipped cream and mascarpone cheese. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip.

For the croquant: In a saucepan, heat the sugar and water until golden brown in color. Mix in the hazelnuts and immediately pour onto a silpat-lined sheet pan. Set aside and let cool completely. Break into pieces.

To assemble the torta: Fill the puff pastry bases half way with the chocolate cream. Place a round of devil's food cake on top and fill with the mascarpone sabayon. Place in the .freezer until set. In a bowl, combine the chocolate and cocoa butter and transfer to an airless spray gun. Remove the molds and spray with the chocolate and cocoa butter mixture.

To serve: Place a torta to one side of a plate. Set a chocolate ribbon next to the torta with a ball of the sorbet in front of the ribbon. Place a small amount of chocolate sauce on top of the torta with a candied hazelnut on top. Drizzle the plate with the chocolate sauce and garnish with a piece of the croquant.

Recioto del Valpolicella

Del Forno Romano

Venice, Italy 1998