Chainsaw basics: chainsaws are great homestead tools, but there are some things you need to know before heading off to the woods.

If you live in the country, sooner or later you'll find yourself in need of a good chainsaw. I say "good" chainsaw, because a cheap, mass-produced one won't stand up to heavy use. Pete Peterson, who's been selling and repairing chainsaws for the better part of 45 years, calls off-the-shelf discount saws "throw-aways." The manufacturers don't intend for these chainsaws to be repaired; they intend for them to be replaced. "You can't find parts for them, so you can't fix them," says Pete. "If you are in the market for a chainsaw, buy one from a reputable dealer, unless you want to throw it away."

Pete recommends a 3 1/2--to 4 1/2 horsepower saw with a 16-inch bar for those who cut firewood for their own use. Homesteaders who want to make a few extra dollars cutting and selling firewood, clearing property or cleaning up after storms will want at least a five-horsepower saw with an 18-inch bar.

Today's chainsaws are much easier to start than the older models. "You only have to pull once, and it starts," says Pete. "The new ones are much easier for women to use. Women use chainsaws, too."

Safety experts recommend two techniques for starting chainsaws: the groin technique and the ground technique. To use the groin technique, hold the handle of the saw tightly between your thighs while in a standing position. Engage the choke and pull the starter cord with a quick, upward motion. To start a saw using the ground technique, place the saw on the ground. Hold the saw in place by putting the toe of your boot through the back handle. Bend over and grab the front handle with your left hand, engage the choke and pull with your right. Check the owner's manual for priming instructions and choke position during the starting process.

"People who have never operated a chainsaw should take a chainsaw safety course before they use the saw without supervision," advises Pete. "Safety is the biggest factor when it comes to chainsaws."

Carl Smith, a fifth generation logger and a chainsaw safety expert with the U.S. Forest Service, agrees, "A chain saw is the most dangerous hand tool that can be purchased on the open market. It requires no license and no training to own or operate. Approximately 40,000 injuries and deaths were reported last year in the United States ... and most could have been prevented." Check with your local extension office or chainsaw dealer for information on classes in your area.

Make sure you buy a chainsaw with a bar cover, "It's a good safety practice to put the cover on when you are done using the saw," offers Pete. A bar cover protects the saw while it is being stored or transported. Always carry your saw with the bar cover on and the bar pointed down to protect your legs and other people.

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All of the saws Pete sells have chain brakes, "Don't buy a saw that doesn't have one," he insists. "The brake stops the saw in two hundredths of second; you have to be able to shut if off fast in an emergency." The chain brake is located next to the front handle where the operator can easily reach it. You should engage the chain brake when starting the saw, if you take one or both hands off the saw or if you have to take more than a couple of steps while it is running.

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Safety doesn't stop at the saw; it's important to dress for the job. Pete recommends wearing a hard hat when felling trees to protect your head from falling limbs.

Most chainsaw-related injuries occur to the legs and feet. Pete advises wearing long pants and steel-toed boots when operating a saw, "Most injuries happen to these areas of the body; you need to be protected."

Pete prefers Kevlar lined boots for safety, "If the saw cuts through the boot, the chain hits that Kevlar and it stops it cold." He recalls the time he was cutting wood and the saw cut through his boot, "It went right through and grabbed my sock. It nearly pulled it right out of the boot." Fortunately, Pete is experienced with chainsaws and managed to stop the saw before he was injured.

Once you've purchased a chainsaw, proper use and maintenance is a must. Pete has this warning about the fuel for your saw," Never run ethanol in your chainsaw, or any other two cycle engine; it tears them up, fast. The ethanol doesn't have enough power to run the engine properly and it over works and burns the pistons up. The manufacturers know about this problem with ethanol, but they don't care. They know you'll buy the new part or a new throw-away saw. Either way, they're happy." His advice to chainsaw owners who want their saw to run problem-free is to buy only non-ethanol, high-grade gasoline (94 octanes) and mix it with a quality, two-cycle oil. Follow the gasoline to oil ratio in your saw's instruction manual or call your dealer. Never guess; if you're wrong you could damage the engine.

To keep the chain sharp and cutting properly, it should be sharpened after each use. This is done using a file and a file guide. It's important to use the proper file and guide for your saw. Consult the owner's manual or dealer to find the right file. Place the saw on a flat surface. Use a grease pencil or piece of chalk to mark the tooth that you begin the process on. As you rotate the chain to sharpen each tooth, you might lose track of where you are.

Place the file in the guide; then place the file in the groove between the cutting tooth and the raker tooth, which is the smaller tooth in front of each cutting tooth. To sharpen the chain, push the file forward while holding it at a slight angle. Lift the file out of the groove to pull it back. Only file in one direction. Most chains are sharpened with a forward motion, but if you are uncertain check with your dealer. Pete says to check the cutting tooth after three or four passes with the file to see if it is sharp enough. To move to the next tooth, simply grab the side of the chain and pull it forward.

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Besides sharpening, the chain (and the guide bar) need to be lubricated. This is accomplished by a special bar oil, contained in a tank separate from the oil/gas mixture, that the chain carries with it as it goes around the bar. This oil is available in different viscosities for winter or summer use. Some saws also feature roller tips, which further reduce wear on the bar and chain. These should be greased regularly with a special grease gun.

No matter how much you dote on your chain, sooner or later you are going to have to replace it. "You have to be knowledgeable about your saw," says Pete. "Different bars use different chains." No matter what size bar you have, you need an anti-kick chain unless you are a professional logger. The anti-kick chain will stop the saw from jumping out of your hand if you hit an object like a rock. Professionals don't need an anti-kick chain because they know what they are doing, but if you're new to chainsaws, Pete says to always use an anti-kick chain.

Mass-produced saws are cheap, both in price and construction, but chainsaws that are built to last aren't. "A good saw will run you upwards of $300. You need a saw with power and that can be maintained properly. A good saw, properly maintained will last 20 years. You're not throwing your money away," says Pete. "Buy a saw you can get parts for so you won't have to replace the whole thing."

If you have questions about chainsaws, Pete will be happy to answer them for you. Contact him via e-mail at [e-mail] or call him during business hours at 715-427-3270, central time.

BY JERRI COOK

COUNTRYSIDE STAFF