Cemeteries a dead cert, as is Fleeting Spirit; MY TOP TIPS FOR A GREAT ARC WEEKEND: Ian Carnaby, racing writer.

GIVE yourself a head start on the big day and strike out for Longchamp early. Take the Metro to Porte Maillot or Porte d'Auteuil, both close to the track, and find a good sports bar or brasserie for lunch; one of the best is Le Congres Maillot (80 Avenue Grande Armee) near Porte Maillot. That's on the other side of the city from Montparnasse, which is my favourite part of Paris.

The famous old cafes, most notably La Closerie des Lilas, favoured by Hemingway and Fitzgerald, are worth a visit, and no matter how certain you are that cemeteries are not your thing, the truly magnificent Cimetiere may well change your mind. Steer clear of the flea markets in the north - if you must go, watch for pickpockets.

Taxis need thought, before and after racing. If you can't get one from the Gare du Nord, there's another cab rank round the corner at the Hotel Richmond. More importantly, do not find yourself in urgent need of a taxi after the last race; you may have to wait an hour at least. Slip out early and get a bus to a Metro station.

With euro to burn after backing Fleeting Spirit in the Abbaye - as long as the ground is not too soft - you'll want to make a night of it. If you are intent on following in Henry Miller's footsteps in his Paris memoir Quiet Days in Clichy, you'll head for the red lights of Boulevard de Clichy.

Less expensive might be a meal at the Petrus restaurant (12 Place du Marechal Juin). My wife and I had our best post-Arc meal there; it probably helped that we backed Rail Link in the big race.