Catching up with Geoffrey Zakarian; Celebrated chef/restaurateur grew up in Worcester around food.

Byline: Barbara M. Houle

He's a super chef who has dished on "Good Morning America" and the "CBS Morning Show," spiced up the barbecue for the folks at Fox News, and prepared holiday brunch with the "Today" show's Al Roker.

This summer, as a guest judge of Bravo's "Top Chef," he helped to eliminate a contestant named Tre. Diehard fans either applauded his decision or wanted to wring his neck. Let's just say it's not pretty to watch a chef and his knives sent packing.

The celebrated restaurateur with star power is Worcester's own Geoffrey Zakarian, chef/owner of two highly acclaimed New York City restaurants: Town, in midtown Manhattan, and Country, near Madison Square Park.

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., Zakarian has worked in prestigious restaurants including Arpege in Paris, the Dorchester in London, and Le Cirque and 21, both in New York City. Oprah Winfrey is on the long list of celebrities he has schmoozed with and cooked for.

Zakarian, 48, attended Thorndyke School and Burncoat Junior-Senior High School in Worcester, and went on to Worcester State College and the University of Massachusetts in Amherst. His parents are the late George H. and Viola Zakarian. His sister, Cynthia Zakarian, still lives here. His brother, George H. Zakarian Jr., resides in Boston.

His memories of Worcester include a stint as a bartender at the former El Morocco, taking dates to the Parkway Diner, and buying clothes from designer Alan Bilzerian before he hit the big time in Boston.

Once during a visit with family in Worcester, he took his wife, Margaret, to the Parkway. He wanted to show her a Worcester landmark, he said.

It turned out to be more deja vu than a bite to eat. The waitress who poured his coffee greeted him with a grin and the line, "Don't I know you?"

Zakarian said he was pretty sure he dated the woman when he was 18. He said his wife thought the incident was funny. His reaction was "Whew!"

In the cookbook, "Geoffrey Zakarian's Town/Country" with David Gibbons (Clarkson Potter, 2006, $37.50), readers learn that Zakarian grew up around food. He said there was always a family gathering with aunts, uncles and cousins. Everyone brought food. His father's family is Armenian; his mother is Polish.

"My family probably did more to promote lemons than any other fruit in our neighborhood," he wrote in an introduction to Caramelized Lemon Tart. "We were always carting in vegetables and fruits by the box-load, and I'm sure our neighbors thought we were loony. We made fresh lemonade, baked lemons, steamed lemons, preserved them in salt, made lemon marmalade, used them for traditional remedies ... and then, of course, there were the desserts."

Another preface begins, "When I was about 12, I would run home from school at lunchtime almost every day to watch `The Galloping Gourmet' while eating a grilled cheese-and-tomato sandwich in front of the TV. Hosting that show one day is still my dream job, and those sandwiches are still one of my favorite foods."

We first met Zakarian last year in Milford when he taped a segment with Ming Tsai, host of the PBS-TV show "Simply Ming" and chef/owner of Blue Ginger in Wellesley. A more recent telephone conversation with Zakarian indicates his life in the Big Apple is busier than ever.

He oversees both of his New York restaurants and plans to open another in Las Vegas in the near future. He and his business partners have a few other projects up their sleeves, he said.

"Any new business venture has to make sense," Zakarian added. "Some chef/owners don't mind spending most of their life in their restaurants. Honestly, I really don't want to be away from home for long stretches of time."

The Zakarians have adjusted to new schedules since the birth of the couple's first child, Madeline Marie Zakarian, six months ago. Zakarian is quick to say, "I love being a dad. The baby has changed our lives."

Madeline has a part-time nanny, but Zakarian takes the morning shift with the baby. He has been his daughter's personal chef since she started to eat solid foods. He explained how he stockpiles the freezer with cubes of steamed, pureed organic fruits (organic white peaches) and veggies (zucchini). "We're all about healthy eating," Zakarian said.

The family recently moved to an apartment next door to Country to be closer to the business, he said. Margaret Zakarian handles marketing and some publicity for the restaurants.

Mixing business and pleasure doesn't appear to be a problem for Zakarian. He cooks at fundraisers and makes celebrity appearances at food and wine events in New York City and South Beach. He develops recipes for Cointreau, a brand of Triple sec liqueur, works with Electrolux, manufacturer of home and professional appliances, and finds time to play a round or two of golf with friends and other chefs, including Ming Tsai.

New York restaurants are the best in the world, he said, but the cost of running one has jumped tremendously. "Rents here (New York City) are insane. Up-front costs have gone through the roof, but still you have to maintain quality and make money."

Business is good, he said, and well-known chefs continue to expand their holdings. However, elegant dining isn't what it used to be. Things are more casual, but eating out isn't cheap. "Double the price of a meal that used to cost $75 to $100 a person," Zakarian said.

"There are cycles for everything," he said, "and rising tides float the boat."

Zakarian, called "tough" when he judged "Top Chef," took his own ultimate challenge this summer when he catered his sister-in-law's wedding attended by 350 guests at one of his restaurants. Eleven food areas were an intricate part of his moveable feast.

He enjoyed helping out, he said, but admitted at this wedding, "I was a nervous guest."

Appetizers to celebrate the holiday season

From "Geoffrey Zakarian's Town/Country" with David Gibbons (Clarkson Potter, $37.50) are these appetizers to celebrate the holiday season.

"Olive Clam Dip," is one of Zakarian's all-time sentimental favorites. "The classic accompaniment would be Cape Cod brand potato chips - the type seasoned with malt vinegar," he says. The dip also pairs well with crudites.

Olive-Clam Dip

1 pound cream cheese (preferably Philadelphia), at room temperature

1/4 cup sour cream

1 cup mixed, pitted, diced black and green olives

1 cup minced clams (canned frozen or freshly steamed), juice reserved, see note

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

2 shallots, finely minced

Pinch of hot red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon lemon juice (1/2 lemon)

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Potato chips or crudites

Note: The minced clams can come from a 16-ounce can, or if you prefer to steam them yourself, from about 4 dozen littlenecks or 2 to 3 dozen quahogs.

Place cream cheese and sour cream in the bowl of a mixer with the paddle attachment and mix on low speed until velvety smooth. (Alternately, mix by hand with a whisk.) Fold in the olives, clams, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, shallots and hot pepper flakes. Use the reserved clam juice to thin the dip as necessary to your desired consistency. Season the dip with lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. Serve the dip in a bowl with chips or veggies on the side. Makes 4 cups.

Sweetness, salt and spice jazz up cocktail nuts.

Curry-Spiced Nuts

1 large egg white

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons Madras curry powder, see note

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 pound raw whole mixed nuts, peeled

Juice of 1 lemon

Note: Madras curry powder is a little hotter than regular curry powder, which can be used in the recipe.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place the egg white and sugar in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Place curry powder, salt and cayenne in a separate bowl and mix thoroughly. Coat the nuts first with the egg white-sugar mixture, then with the spices. Drizzle the nuts with the lemon juice.

Arrange the nuts in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until they are crisp and the spice is toasted but not burned, about 20 minutes before serving. They are good warm or at room temperature, and can be stored in an airtight container in a cool place for about a week. Serves 6 to 8 or more for cocktails.

Salt and Pepper Shrimp represents Zakarian's variation on a traditional Cantonese dish he enjoys in New York's Chinatown.

Salt and Pepper Shrimp

For the spicy oil:

3 quarts peanut or other vegetable oil (enough to fill frying pot to a depth of at least 3 inches)

3 tablespoons chopped unpeeled ginger

(2- to 3-inch piece)

2 fresh hot chili peppers, split (jalapeno or equivalent)

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

2 tablespoons green peppercorns

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

For the shrimp:

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons smoked sweet paprika

1-1/2 teaspoons coarse sea salt

3/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon medium-hot red chili powder

3 pounds unshelled super jumbo shrimp, heads removed, see note

Fine sea salt

Small handful of fresh cilantro leaves

Note: Using super jumbo shrimp, you should have 6 servings of 9 shrimp, or 8 servings of 6 or 7 shrimp.

Preheat oven to 200 degrees.

Place oil, ginger, chilies, black peppercorns, green peppercorns and coriander seeds in a large, heavy ovenproof pot over low heat. When the oil is warm, transfer the pot to the oven to bake until the oil is fragrant, about 1 hour. Strain the oil and return it to the pot. Combine the flour, paprika, coarse salt, pepper and chili powder in a large mixing bowl and mix well. Add the shrimp and turn them in the spice mixture to coat it all over.

Place the oil in a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat to a depth of at least 3 inches (the pot should be at least 6 inches deep so the oil level can rise without spillage when the shrimp are added). When a thermometer registers the oil at 350 degrees, or a drop of water sizzles immediately when hitting the surface, it is ready for frying. The oil should not smoke before or during the cooking process. Fry the shrimp in the spicy oil in small batches until crisp and golden brown, about 4 minutes per batch. Transfer the fried shrimp with a slotted spoon to a large platter lined with paper towels to drain off excess oil. Season the shrimp to taste with fine salt and additional pepper, if desired. Garnish with cilantro leaves and serve. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Olive oil and yogurt make a versatile hors d'oeuvre spread.

Black and White Olive Oil Yogurt Bruschetta

3 cups plain whole-milk yogurt, preferably Greek

1/4 cup lemon-infused grapeseed oil, see recipe

1/2 cup pitted, chopped kalamata olives or other flavorful black olives, see note

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 pound soft, fresh goat cheese

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 large crusty loaf peasant bread

1 clove garlic, halved

Note: Genuine Greek kalamata olives give this spread its kick; they are assertive and fruity and come packed in a wine-vinegar marinade and/or olive oil.

Spoon yogurt into a fine strainer lined with cheesecloth set over a bowl. Put the strainer and bowl in the refrigerator and allow the yogurt to drain overnight. Prepare the lemon oil. Combine the olives and 5 tablespoons of the olive oil in a bowl. Cover and set aside to marinate overnight.

Combine the strained yogurt and goat cheese in a metal or heat-resistant glass bowl, or the top of a double boiler. Set over a pan of simmering water and beat the mixture together until it is smooth. Remove the cheese mixture from the heat and whisk until it is cool. While continuing to whisk, gradually drizzle in 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, followed by the strained lemon oil. Whisk in the thyme and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the spread into a shallow serving bowl. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for at least two hours.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Slice the bread into approximately 30 squares or rounds about 2 inches across and 1/2 inch thick. Place the bread on a baking sheet, drizzle on both sides with the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil and toast it in the oven until light brown, about 5 minutes per side. Rub one side of each toasted bread slice with the garlic, then season it with salt and pepper. Drizzle the black olive-olive oil mixture over the cheese-yogurt mixture, then spoon equal portions (about 1 tablespoon per serving) onto the toasts and serve. Makes about 2 cups of spread.

Lemon-Infused Grapeseed Oil

Place the peel of 1 lemon, julienned, and 1/4 cup grapeseed oil in a container, cover, and allow to marinate overnight in a cool place. Strain the lemon oil and refrigerate until needed. Makes 1/4 cup.

ART: PHOTOS

CUTLINE: (1) Quentin Bacon (2) Geoffrey Zakarian, right, and Ming Tsai, chef/owner of Blue Ginger in Wellesley, are pictured during a taping last year of "Simply Ming" in Milford. (3) Geoffrey Zakarian

PHOTOG: (1) Quentin Bacon photo courtesy of "Geoffrey Zakarian's Town/Country," Clarkson Potter (2, 3) PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOM RETTIG