Catching lightning in a bottle with Comme Ca: standout fare includes grilled cheese, moules and steak frites.DAVID David, in the Bible David, d. c.970 B.C., king of ancient Israel (c.1010–970 B.C.), successor of Saul. The Book of First Samuel introduces him as the youngest of eight sons who is anointed king by Samuel to replace Saul, who had been deemed a failure. Myers is no stranger the Los Angeles restaurant scene. As head chef for the FoodArt Group, which includes avant-garde favorite Sona and the Oprah-endorsed Boule boule Deliberative council in the city-states of ancient Greece. It existed in almost all constitutional city-states, especially from the late 6th century BC. In Athens the boule was created as an aristocratic body by Solon in 594 BC; later, under Cleisthenes, 500 members Patisserie pa·tis·se·rie n. A bakery specializing in French pastry. [French pâtisserie, from Old French pastiserie, from pasticier, to make pastry, from *pastitz, , Myers has earned kudos with his newer, more accessible brasserie bras·se·rie n. A restaurant serving alcoholic beverages, especially beer, as well as food. [French, from brasser, to malt, brew, from Old French bracier, from Vulgar Latin , Comme Ca. With its sleek black and white decor and a location convenient to both the Pacific Design Center and the upscale shops that have proliferated on Melrose Place, this stylish neighborhood spot is turning out to be a happening scene featuring fresh interpretations of classic French dishes. Though Myers has worked at such culinary institutions as Charlie Trotter's in Chicago and New York's Daniel, it was his time at L.A.'s Patina that established him as an emerging figure among the city's pantheon of celebrity chefs. The launch of Sona generated a wave of accolades, including a nod as best new chef from Food and Wine magazine and a nomination for the prestigious James Beard Rising Star award. But with Comme Ca, he is going in a different direction. Trading in the haute cuisine of a bistro for the bustle of a less formal brasserie, Myers has set about to create a meeting place where people can come together for more traditional dishes and carefully-crafted drinks. In keeping with this philosophy, Comme Ca is open for breakfast and brunch as well as lunch and dinner. The place has that French air of undeniable cool. With its monochromatic monochromatic /mono·chro·mat·ic/ (-kro-mat´ik) 1. existing in or having only one color. 2. pertaining to or affected by monochromatic vision. 3. staining with only one dye at a time. scheme punctuated by playful punches of red, this decidedly mod--albeit unreasonably loud--dining room has what is takes to occupy the eyes of a visually discerning crowd. The highlight is a chalkboard on the hallway wall at the rear of the restaurant; it's covered with clever doodles Doodles can mean the following:
However, this "beauty over comfort" ideal is taken a bit too far by the less-than-practical chairs. After an hour, these white plastic numbers become torture devices and we spend a good amount of time wondering if the high-backed wooden ones at an adjacent table are any better. Also, the round tables are too small. The idea of a brasserie is to pack them in, but the lack of space causes logistical issues when the food is delivered. Perhaps this is our own fault, as we have unquestionably un·ques·tion·a·ble adj. Beyond question or doubt. See Synonyms at authentic. un·ques  tion·a·bil ordered a
ridiculous amount of food. We skip the proper appetizers--the requisite
frisee fri·sée n. See endive. [French, from feminine past participle of friser, to curl; see frizz1.] aux lardons salad, charcuterie plate, and onion soup--and instead split a myriad of entrees. The Hama Hama oysters from the raw bar are excellent, though the subsequent Malpeques are, by comparison, flavorless. The idea of actually ordering a sandwich has always seemed somewhat of a novice move, but we toss our preconceived notions and split the grilled cheese of the day. The glorious concoction that is served--and I fancy myself a connoisseur--makes me rethink the entire paradigm on which I judge grilled cheese. The bread is slightly hardened by cooking with the perfect drizzling of butter, the inside is gooey See GUI. without overdoing it on the sharp cheddar. The slathering of dijon mustard is a revelation, so much so that I don't miss the tomato that is supposed to be included. The moules and steak frites are great--exactly what you are craving in a place like this. The moules are succulent and the Pernod-infused broth is great for dipping your frites. COMME CA Food: *** Service: *** Atmosphere: ** Where: 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 90069. Cross Street: La Cienega Boulevard La Cienega Boulevard is a major north/south arterial road that runs from El Segundo Boulevard in El Segundo, California on the south to its end on the Sunset Strip/Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood. When: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Sunday; 5 to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday What to Try: Hama Hama oysters, cheese plate, grilled cheese du jour, masted beet salad, moules frites, cdspy skate Grenobloise, steak frites, bittersweet bittersweet, name for two unrelated plants, belonging to different families, both fall-fruiting woody vines sometimes cultivated for their decorative scarlet berries. chocolate tart Parking: Valet, $5.50 at lunch, $8 at dinner Price Range: Appetizers, $9-$16; Entrees, $19-$25 Reservations: (323) 782-1104 Reviewer Lindsey Styrwoll can be reached at L_Styrwoll@yahoo.com. |
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