Casual dress haze: for many, the definition of business casual is unclear. It doesn't have to be.

How do today's business professionals define the term "business casual?" For some, it means not wearing suits. For others, it means breaking the rules that were established by John Molloy in "Dress for Success," the book that established business-professional attire guidelines in the 1980s.

No matter how professionals choose to define it, business casual has made its presence in the corporate, education and government sectors, and is here to stay. And with its presence, a new dress code has been born. Within each dress code is a set of common-sense rules designed to make dress-down opportunities employee perks and company assets--rather than liabilities to organizations' images.

Coat and Tie Optional

Around 1992, many organizations chose to ease the coat-and-tie trend and replace it with corporate-casual attire. These companies viewed this relaxed dress as a way to boost employee morale. Some institutions also considered it as a way of bridging the gap among exempt, salaried and hourly employees.

Some organizations promoted "Casual Dress Days" as initiatives toward the quality of life and work. Other companies designed a day of the month, week or even block of time in the summer during which its employees could wear what they termed smart-casual clothes, as a way of attracting new employees.

During the past few years, the number of companies that have incorporated business-casual dress into the workplace has increased considerably. One reason for this dress-down acceptance may be caused by surveys that cite this perk as an opportunity for employees to save money and increase productivity. Some institutions even have chosen to adapt business-casual dress as a way of emulating their clients' dress codes.

As dress-down days are instituted in companies, employees are encouraged to use good judgment by wearing business attire if casual clothes may interfere with their work responsibilities on a given day (e.g., an appointment with a client outside the office). Yet other companies request that employees who have face-to-face contact with customers and clients wear professional attire every day (e.g., medical staff who greet patients, attorneys appearing in court or bank associates handling in-person bank transactions for customers).

Dress-Down Days

If someone were to ask business professionals today to describe what dress-down attire means, what would they say? Clothes they wear when they return home from work? Clothes in which they feel most comfortable? Clothes that are more fashion forward than those they wear to work when dressed professionally?

While some employees may represent their organizations in a professional manner on dress-down days, others have abused the perk of being allowed to dress casually in their work environments. Some people understand what their organizations mean by business-professional attire (e.g., a suit, sport coat and trousers, a skirt, a blouse and blazer). However, they may not understand or be asked to abide by the real definition of business-casual dress, based on their organizations' standards.

The "real" definition of business casual is to dress one notch down from what is expected in business-professional attire. For example, if an employee wears a suit to work when dressed professionally, perhaps a sport coat and trousers could replace the suit on dress-down days. If an employee wears a sport coat, tie and trousers on days when he is dressed professionally, perhaps "sporty" clothes such as a knit shirt and trousers are appropriate on dress-down days.

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Or, if an employee wears a skirt, blouse and jacket on business professional days, she may vary that outfit by wearing a tailored pair of slacks (no stretch pants, please) on the days when workers are encouraged to dress casually. Whatever professionals choose to wear, they must make sure their outfits are coordinated, tasteful, neat, clean and pressed.

Businesses generally have either written or unwritten guidelines regarding their expectations on business-casual days. If a company has documented dress-down guidelines in written form, employees should follow them. If the guidelines are not written, an unsure employee should take a cue from his or her co-workers. What are other employees who continue to climb the rungs of the organization's ladder wearing? What does the immediate manager wear on dress-down days? What about his or her manager? And what about the company's president?

The real definition of business-casual dress is wearing clothes that will allow professionals to represent their organizations if they are called to a last-minute client meeting, without feeling obliged to apologize for their appearances.

Smart Casual on a Budget

One reason that business casual has been accepted by organizations is because it is perceived as a way to save employees money. However, that justification may be a mere assumption that employees already have attire that fit the definition of their organization's smart-casual dress code.

Dressing in a smart-casual mode can be costly if it means building a third wardrobe. Following are three tips to "dress for success" on these business-casual dress days:

1. Dress business-professional attire down one notch so it instead looks "smart casual" (e.g., replace a jacket with a sweater or a skirt with a pair of tailored slacks).

2. Accessorize basics items to look more casual by adding a scarf, sweater or belt.

3. Shop at consignment stores. Some of the best buys can be found there.

Real taste in clothes shows up on dress-down days. What employees wear, the way they mix and match outfits and the way they maintain their attire says a lot about the attention they pay to detail--both creatively and professionally.

With a little advanced planning and good judgment, professionals can demonstrate their senses of dress savvy. They also can gain that extra edge by making sure their choices in smart-casual attire allows them to maintain a professional presence any day of the week.

Business Professional Only

Some situations call for business-professional attire, regardless of company policy.

FOLLOWING ARE EXAMPLES

* When an employee is interacting with international or potential clients. (Although business casual has taken off in the United States, formality in dress remains the norm abroad.)

* When client meetings are scheduled in an environment in which business professional attire is encouraged (e.g., at a client site, a restaurant or private club at which professional dress is the rule rather than the exception).

* When an employee has not yet invested in smart-casual attire.

* When an employee is in negotiation with a client about price.

* When an employee is scheduled for a performance appraisal.

* When an employee puts on an outfit and wonders if it is appropriate for work. (When in doubt, don't wear it.)

* When an employee's dress-down attire is not clean or pressed.

* When an employee is traveling to another site and is uncertain of the dress code.--A.M.S.

Fashion Faux Pas 

Try to avoid committing the following business-casual dress mistakes in office environments.

FOR BOTH MEN AND WOMEN

* Wearing shoes that are worn and scuffed.

* Wearing poorly maintained clothes on a dress-down day.

* Considering jeans to be business-casual attire when a company boss never wears them to work.

FOR MEN

* Wearing an open-collar shirt with a crew neck T-shirt showing underneath it.

* Making the executive decision that T-shirts and worn-out sneakers are smart-casual attire.

* Not shaving.

FOR WOMEN

* Wearing a shirt that is much shorter in length than they would wear when dressed professionally.

* Wearing halter tops and see-through blouses.

* Wearing stretch pants rather than tailored slacks.--A.M.S.

Dress by the Rules

THE TREND

* Dress-down days began gaining popularity in the early 1990s.

WHAT IT MEANS

* Companies choose designated days, weeks, months or seasons to relax their business-professional dress codes.

THE PROBLEM

* Employees may not know how to dress appropriately on dress-down days.

Ann Marie Sabath is the founder of At Ease Inc., a national business protocol and development training firm. She can be reached at [e-mail] or 202/785-0025.