Carmichael's garden of eden: an octogenarian grower has created an incredible perennial paradise.

Just about the time Old Man Winter's icy fingers grip the landscape, Mother Nature ushers in one of the season's earliest arrivals--the hardy camellia. Crimson red, pink, and pure white blossoms lead the parade into spring and are soon joined by an assortment of perennial treasures like the bearded iris and the snow-white calla lily.

Sometimes Mother Nature enlists the help of passionate gardeners like Oscar Carmichael, who has enjoyed perennial gardening for much of his 83 years. When Oscar returned home to the Carmichael community of Clarke County in 1988, he put his gardening knowledge to work and turned the rural landscape surrounding his home into a sprawling lawn and garden that covers 5 1/2 acres. An additional 7 1/2-acre lake adds the perfect dimension to this perennial paradise.

The Carmichael garden hosts 63 camellia varieties. As a serious grower and former president of the Jackson Camellia Society, Oscar uses the protection of a greenhouse to shelter 34 of his favorite varieties from frostbite. Flowering during their dormant period, camellias not only provide a steady supply of outdoor color but indoor warmth and beauty as well. A shallow bowl of floating camellia blossoms creates a showy centerpiece for any occasion.

One of Oscar's favorite hobbies is gibbing camellia blossoms. "Gibbing" is the term used when gibberellic acid is applied to the flower bud. This breaks the plant's dormancy, forcing the bud to open early and, at the same time, enlarging the bloom. While the process is not fully understood, gibbing produces prize-winning camellia blossoms.

For those who aren't nurturing the blue-ribbon-winner, Oscar says, "you can enjoy larger blooms by going to the varieties that produce large blooms."

Pink Icicle, Winter's Fire, and Mason Farm offer 4-inch blossoms, compared to varieties with 2-to 3 1/2-inch flowers.

While camellias can be planted any time during the year, plants do best when planted from November to January, Oscar says, allowing roots to develop before hot weather arrives. Although camellias will tolerate full sun or full shade, the ideal location is partial shade. The area must be well-drained, or roots will suffocate and die. Growers should avoid planting under magnolias, oaks, and other trees with surface roots, he says. Make sure the plant is placed high enough that it will not settle below ground level, or the plant will eventually die, Oscar notes. The soil should be rich in organic matter and slightly acidic with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.

Oscar warns not to fertilize camellias until the plants are established, fertilizing in the spring following flowering.

Camellias should be kept mulched at all times, adding fresh mulch each fall. Most mulch material is acceptable, but a three-inch layer of pine straw is preferable because it does not pack or shed water. The plants should be fertilized with a slow-release fertilizer in spring and again in the rail with a nitrogen-free formula. Camellias can be cut back as necessary, even to a stump, with blooms returning after one to two years depending on the variety. Weak limbs should be removed immediately after blooming.

Along the south side of the Carmichael house, next to a wooded area, a solid mass of "bridal wreath" spiraea measuring 50 feet long and 10 feet high creates the illusion of a snow-covered bank. "Bridal wreath is very easy to grow," Oscar explains, "and divides well." The plant's arched branches and sprays of white flowers make an excellent border.

Nearby, a stately Lady Banks rose competes in beauty and size, rising 25 feet high and 15 feet across, with hundreds of yellow blooms lining its slender branches. "The Lady Banks rose is a fast-growing plant," Oscar says. "It will grow very large in just three or four years."

As temperatures warm, the charm of the early-bloomer is rivaled as more than 1,000 azalea plants flower in a kaleidoscope of color. The quarter-mile driveway leading to the house is lined alternately with Bradford pears and azaleas, and as the paved driveway nears the house, lilac reflects in the waters of the lake, its west bank lined with George Tabor azaleas.

CARMICHAEL'S GARDEN OF EDEN 

On occasion, azaleas fall prey to disease and pests. "You have to be careful with a disease called lichens," Oscar cautions. "It looks like scales on the azalea's branches and means that, at some point, the plant has been under stress. Either the bushes were placed too close together and are not getting enough minerals or the plants are not getting enough moisture." Oscar rids diseased azaleas of lichens by breaking off the infected branch. "If uncontrolled, this scaly disease will eventually kill the plant," Oscar says.

Because azaleas have a shallow, fibrous root system, Oscar stresses the importance of mulching and lots of water. He prefers to mulch with pine needles because they have a slightly acidifying effect. With mulch to hold in needed moisture, azaleas should have the equivalent of one inch of rain every seven to ten days.

Peonies are a favorite at the Carmichael house. The plant's large, fragrant blossoms are irresistible as cut flowers. Oscar says, "Most people think you can't grow peonies in the South, but if you follow some basic rules, you can have good results." (See "Planning Perfect Peonies," opposite.) With dozens of large blooms, Oscar's garden is proof that peonies can be grown successfully in the South.

The only thing Oscar loves more than growing daylilies is sharing them with others. "I simply dig them up and divide them with a shovel as they multiply--that way I can give them to friends." No perennials are easier to grow than daylilies. They are virtually insect--and disease-free. Daylilies will bloom in shade or full sun and will grow in any part of the country. When planting, set the crown no more than one inch below the surface of the soil. "They need no special care, but I do fertilize with a 5-10-15 formula. Any plant that has lots of roots requires a good bit of potash--the 15 is potash, the 10 is phosphate and the 5 is nitrogen." The reason for less nitrogen, Oscar explains, is "if you use too much nitrogen, the foliage will grow tall and the flowers will be small."

Unequaled in beauty and appeal, roses are an important part of Oscar's past and present. He shares the same sentiment as Shakespeare, who said, "Of all the flowers, methinks a rose is best." During his 30-year career in the agricultural chemical business, Oscar tested hybrid roses for Jackson & Perkins, a large hybrid rose development company.

As most rosarians, Oscar stresses the importance of feeding and watering. Roses grow best in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. For newly planted bushes, wait three to four weeks to begin fertilizing, then apply a commercial rose food every two to three weeks until the plants are well-established. While it is virtually impossible to give a rose too much water, they do not tolerate "wet feet" and need well-drained soil. Water the entire bush in early spring. When foliage appears, water away from the leaves to avoid mildew. Some diseases can be avoided entirely by proper watering.

Other diseases and pests will need chemical control. "In order to have healthy rose bushes, you have to spray," Oscar says. By setting up a regular spray schedule during the growing season, infestations may never occur. Also, prune canes that show signs of canker. As a winter cleanup, Oscar strips and removes leaves from the plant area to keep rust and blackspot from carrying over from year to year. Although roses require slightly more care than other flowers, the rewards far outweigh the efforts.

Perennials are generally thought of as old-fashioned plants, but that's okay with Oscar Carmichael. He's an old-fashioned guy. He remembers quilting parties and barn-buildings as a child in the Carmichael community--a time when everyone shared life's necessities. Nowadays, Oscar shares his garden with neighbors and friends. Even tour groups from neighboring counties have been known to sneak a peek at the oasis the Carmichaels call home.

PLANNING A PERENNIAL GARDEN

Perennials provide a permanent framework for any type of garden. Although they can be used as temporary fillers and later transplanted elsewhere, perennials are considered more "permanent" plantings. There are specific characteristics that should play a role in designing the perennial garden:

color

Color schemes are an important part of the perennial garden. Analogous schemes use colors that are similar, while complementary colors (colors opposite on the color wheel) present very defined lines and afford a contrasting rhythm. With polychromatic schemes, all colors are combined for a cottage garden effect.

height

The rule for planting mixed borders is to stair-step varieties from the shortest in the front to the tallest in the rear. In open beds, the tallest plants should be placed in the center so that all blooms are clearly visible.

flowering season

Coordinate the blooming season with the desired flowering effect in mind. Choose varieties that will bloom all at once to have a garden filled with color, of choose plants that will bloom in continuous succession, with new blooms appearing as others fade.

PLANTING PERFECT PEONIES

WHEN TO PLANT: The most important part of growing peonies is proper planting, preferably in the rail.

WHERE TO PLANT: Take care not to plant in an area that is too wet or too shaded. "My peonies get the morning sun and very little afternoon sun," Oscar explains.

HOW TO PLANT: You should choose divisions with three to five eyes. Since soil preparation is vital to success, dig the planting hole out 18 inches deep and two feet wide. Replace with a commercial soil mixture and mix well with humus. Most importantly, place the tips of the eyes exactly two inches below the surface of the soil. Then mound the soil another two inches to take care of settling, keeping in mind that the number one cause of failure is planting too deep. Peonies planted over three inches below ground level will not survive.

GENERAL CARE: Another important part of growing peonies is proper feeding. When green foliage appears, fertilize with a 1-1-1 ratio fertilizer. "I fertilize in the fall and then again in the spring to give them a boost for the next year," Oscar says. "I would rather fertilize twice in one year rather than risk over-fertilizing."

For information on visiting the Carmichael garden, call 601/687-1601.