Caprice offers coastal charm.

Byline: Whitley Bay

TABLE FOR 2 GEOFF LAWS Brasserie Caprice Whitley Bay CAPRICE is an interesting choice of restaurant name. Coming from the Latin for goat, it implies a tendency to whimsy actions that surprise by their sudden change of direction, typical of a capricious goat (excuse the tautology).

Maybe the chef likes to have free rein to invent, follow his muse and fulfil his creative urges, which is fine by me just so long as he isn't overly experimental. The thought of liver and banana, or sardines and custard being on the menu is a culinary step too far for me, but then Heston's snail porridge had to start somewhere.

So, with my mind if not my mouth open to all possibilities, we set off to Whitley Bay and the restaurant, set right on the sea front. The evening was drawing in as we arrived and the promenade mixed homeward-bound day-trippers with early night-outers, their dress clearly differentiating the groups. The clubs were whirring into activity with neon signs becoming ever brighter as the sky darkened.

We chose a table where we could see the outside scene and everything going on indoors too. A prime site for the job in hand.

The menu offered a broad range of dishes and my eye was caught by a starter combination that was in the 'capricious' category, proscuitto wrapped peaches, and my open mind accepted the challenge. My companion made her choices and we awaited the outcomes over a glass of well-rounded Malbec.

The peaches duly arrived and were an inspired success. The pulpy fruit, enveloped in mildly savoury proscuitto, paired subtle sweet and savoury in a daring combination underscored by a flash of parmesan crisp on the side. A tussle of Julienne salad for finesse and crunch was all it needed to make it complete.

My companion's smoked mackerel and warm potato salad with Dijon mustard sauce was a more conventional ensemble, but produced with flair. Two fillets, with just a hint of pepperiness skimming across the surface, were delicately balanced on the warm salad that tempered the powerful fish with its creamy mayonnaise and a swirling trail of coarse-grain mustard. Each element played its part, producing a deliciously inventive taste experience.

Ah! The joy of good food, especially when the chef isn't a one-trick pony, as our main courses confirmed.

His version of salmon and sole roulade, with lobster bisque and champagne cream sauce, brought together a duo of mousse soft fish with pale pink and pearly white enfolding rich green spinach. Delicately constructed to allow each element to shine, the deep lobster bisque shared the plate with the creamy champagne sauce. A cleverly designed, great tasting dish.

The lamb shin with Mediterranean vegetables and couscous with balsamic mint was another outright success. Fall-away soft meat collapsed from the bone to the touch. The disc of small-grained couscous hugged diced pepper, courgettes, onion and garlic in a tangy mint sauce that nudged towards lemon at the sharper edges.

A side dish of shredded leek, sauted potatoes, baby sweetcorn, fine beans and courgettes were all superbly cooked and well presented.

For me there was an additional pleasure in finding a restaurant of this quality in a place where others are largely catering to the demand for an economical curry or a quick pizza/pasta experience. Caprice is a glorious exception.

Desserts doubly underscored the point. The velvety chocolate torte with orange sauce custard was chocolate-rich and midnight deep in flavour. The fruity sweet custard created textural contrast, while waves of pat sucr biscuit rolled around a super smooth vanilla ice cream dressed with summer berries.

My companion's poached pear with mascarpone and walnuts was another top-notch dish. The softly poached pear, helpfully sliced and perched on creamy mascarpone, was surrounded by intensely sweet syrup and candied walnuts.

A truly inspired dessert course, my one regret was that we couldn't try more of them.

However, Caprice is on my 'must-go-back-with friends' list, so I can relive and share the pleasure of finding this five-star restaurant.

INFORMATION Address: Brasserie Caprice, 10 East Parade, Whitley Bay, Tyne and Wear, NE26 1AP.

Tel: [phone] Open: Mon-Sat 5pm-10pm, Sun noon-4pm.

Where is it? On the sea front, north of the Rex Hotel.

First impressions: Mellow, laid-back ease.

Welcome: Smooth and relaxed. Style: Design and furnishings warm and comfortable with a hint of reassuring retro. Very well designed space.

Cuisine:British and Continental. Wine:Fina Los Primos, Malbec, Argentina 2008, pounds 14.95.

Masses of understated fruity-oak character. Service: Excellent timing and professionalism. Classy operation.

Value Outstanding value at pounds 60.30.

Parking: Most of the surrounding streets are dedicated to resident parking so you may have to search for a while.

Disabled facilities: Fully accessible.

CAPTION(S):

CLEVER DESIGN The lamb shin with Mediterranean vegetables and couscous with balsamic mint. VELVETY Chocolate torte with orange sauce custard and ice cream. OUTSTANDING Brasserie Caprice offers something different - inspired and well-presented dishes, from starters through to desserts.