Capi's offers creative flavor.

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IF YOU'RE UNCERTAIN WHETHER Capi's can add any fresh flavor to the saturated Little Rock restaurant scene, you have only to step through the door.

An enormous oak tree bursts from the top of the bar, its branches stretching to the ceiling. Vibrant local art from M2 Gallery next door adorns the vividly painted walls (tangerine here, blue there), giving a sleek Mediterranean feel to the restaurant in the Pleasant Ridge Town Center. Decorative brown accents--and, of course, the tree--add an earthy element.

The cuisine--a fusion of Latin, Mediterranean and American influences--is elegant and, at times, playful, with the menu offering a plethora of choices. The tapas-style of dining--small plates of food--creates a more communal dining experience that heightens the lively atmosphere.

Capi Peck and Brent Peterson, owners of Trio's Restaurant, also own Capi's, which opened last month, and the food reflects their influence.

One diner started with the soup of the day ($4), a creamy chicken and wild rice that was a delicious and warming antidote to a chilly afternoon.

Of the small plates we ordered, the chicken kebobs Stavros ($6), served with a chopped Greek salad, stole the show. It has been a long time since we've had perfectly cooked chicken. Caps off to the chefs.

Ryan's queso fundido, a fun-filled small plate of melted jack and goat cheeses, roasted poblano chiles and a honey-drizzle sauce with fresh blue-and jalapeno-corn tortilla chips, was delicious.

The chefs at Capi's--just like those at Trio's--have a knack for making each dish distinctive, even one as basic as cheese dip. The same goes for the bruschetta ($5), a small plate of mushrooms with a honey-drizzle sauce atop fresh baguette slices.

The gambas al ajillo small plate ($7)--Gulf shrimp, garlic, lemon, herbs and chile de arbol peppers--also pleased our palates.

The Cuban picadillo ($8) didn't astound us as did the other small plates, but still tasted fine.

To make a full meal of the small plates we recommend at least two plates per person, which can get pricey.

We relished every crisp bite of the La Fortuna sandwich--grilled chicken breast, bacon, grilled onion, melted provolone, lettuce, roma tomatoes and chipotle mayonnaise on local baker Silvek's country Italian bread.

And, as it does at Trio's, the dessert tray dazzled. The chocolate creme brulee may be the best in the city. The Kahlua silk pie and the pumpkin toffee mousse kept several of our party from talking for a good five minutes--no small feat. And the raspberry cream pie, drizzled with mouth-watering raspberry coulis, was the icing on a filling, fattening and fun-filled experience.

We dined in under an hour. We'll be back as soon as our pockets allow.

Capi's

11525 Cantrell Road, Little Rock

[phone]

*** 1/2

Cuisine: Global small plate

Dress Code: None

Noise Level: Moderate

Price Range: $4-$15

Credit Cards: All major

Reservations: Same Day

Receipts: NA

**** = Outstanding
 *** = Good
  ** = Fair
   * = Poor