Cajun tribute.

Byline: Randi Bjornstad The Register-Guard

The idea of holding a special dinner to raise money for Hurricane Katrina survivors came easily to Armen Kevrekian, owner of Ambrosia Restaurant & Bar, and his staff. Despite the restaurant's predominantly Italian menu, deciding to make the evening specials Cajun in honor of southern Louisiana's distinctive cuisine was the logical next step.

So that's what Kevrekian and chef Dave Proctor put together last week, and their efforts netted about $5,000 over two evenings.

Cafe Zenon picks up the fundraising task today, offering its version of a Cajun dinner, with five appetizers, a cup of gumbo or a dinner salad, a choice of six entrees and bread pudding or sweet potato pecan pie for dessert.

Ambrosia's specials began with blackened oysters, served on a bed of sauteed spinach, topped with remoulade and served with a wedge of lemon. The main courses included pecan-glazed duck and Cajun-fried catfish with tartar sauce - and for dessert, bananas Foster, invented in 1951 at Brennan's Restaurant in New Orleans and named for a local businessman who headed up a commission dedicated to cleaning up the notoriously wild French Quarter.

Proctor says two things set Cajun cooking apart: its "spice mix" - equal parts of garlic powder, black, white and cayenne pepper, chili powder, paprika, thyme and oregano - and the use of "roux," a cooked paste of grease and flour that forms the base of gumbo and many other saucy dishes.

He started cooking Cajun 20 years ago when the cuisine suddenly burst out of its southern confines and became popular throughout the country, championed by famous New Orleans chefs such as Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse.

Prudhomme, who comes from a Cajun family, describes the beginnings of Cajun food in the introduction to his 1984 cookbook, "Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen." He says the cuisine originated with a group of people in southern France who migrated to Nova Scotia in eastern Canada in the early 1600s.

They founded a colony they called Acadia, but were driven out by the British during the French and Indian Wars in the mid-1700s. Perhaps because of New Orleans' heavy French influence, many fled to Louisiana, where they continued their lifestyle of trapping, fishing and farming.

By contrast, Creole cooking - the other major branch of southern Louisiana cuisine - started in New Orleans, melding tastes of the area's diverse populations of French, Spanish, Italian, Native American and African residents, Prudhomme says. The servant class - cooks in rich households who took new ideas home to their own families - helped to merge these different cooking styles into what became known as Creole.

Cajun cooking relies heavily on bacon and other meat greases as its basic fat, while Creole dishes depend on butter, giving rise to the common distinction of "country" versus "city" food.

Both forms of cooking feature a large variety of fish and seafood dishes, reflecting New Orleans' watery location near the Gulf of Mexico, the Mississippi River system and the vast wetlands of the Mississippi Delta.

CAFE ZENON'S CAJUN BENEFIT DINNER

Proceeds from the dinner will be given to Habitat for Humanity's emergency appeal for funds to build housing for newly homeless Americans as a result of Hurricane Katrina.

When: Today

Where: Cafe Zenon, 898 Pearl St.

Cost: $40 per person ($30 goes to Habitat for Humanity)

Information: 343-3005

AMBROSIA BENEFIT DINNER

Two dinners last week raised more than $5,000 for hurricane victims

Cajun Spice Mix

This amount of spice mix should be sufficient to make all of the following recipes provided by Ambrosia Restaurant.

3 tablespoons garlic powder

3 tablespoons red (cayenne) pepper

3 tablespoons white pepper

3 tablespoons black pepper 

3 tablespoons chili powder

3 tablespoons paprika

3 tablespoons thyme, crushed dried leaves

3 tablespoons oregano, crushed dried leaves

Mix all ingredients.

Source: Ambrosia Restaurant.

Blackened Oysters

12 oysters

1/2 to 3/4 cup Cajun Spice Mix

1 cup spinach, washed and stems removed

Olive oil for frying

1 lemon, cut in wedges

Dredge oysters in Cajun Spice Mix. Pour olive oil into the bottom of a heavy cast-iron skillet to a depth of 1/4 inch over high heat, until almost smoking.

Carefully put the oysters into the hot oil; saute to a dark red-brown color, about 1 minute. Turn and saute the other side similarly, about 1 minute.

Transfer the oysters to a plate lined with several layers of paper towel to drain.

In the remaining spiced oil in the pan, quickly saute the fresh spinach leaves, just until they begin to wilt. Remove from the pan.

Divide the leaves among four small plates. Place three oysters on each spinach bed.

Serve with a wedge of lemon and a tablespoon of remoulade.

Serves 4.

Source: Ambrosia.

Cajun Remoulade

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons prepared horseradish 

2 teaspoons stone-ground mustard

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Mix all ingredients well in a small bowl. Keep chilled until time to serve. Makes about 1/4 cup.

Source: Ambrosia.

Dirty Rice Fritters

2 cups cooked long-grain rice

Seasoning blend:

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons onion

1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder

1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard 

1 teaspoon ground cumin 

1 teaspoon black pepper

3/4 teaspoon white pepper

Fritters:

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 cup onion, 1/2 -inch dice

1/4 cup green bell pepper, 1/2 -inch dice

1/4 cup red bell pepper, 1/2 -inch dice

1/4 cup yellow bell pepper, 1/2 -inch dice

1/4 pound ground beef

1/4 pound ground pork

2 bay leaves

2 minced garlic cloves

1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour

3 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 to 3/4 cup vegetable oil for frying

Cook rice until sticky and set aside.

Blend the seasoning spices and set aside.

Coat a large, heavy-gauge saucepan with 1/4 cup vegetable oil. Over medium-high heat, add half the onions and all of the bell peppers and cook until they begin to brown.

Add the ground meats, half of the seasoning blend and the bay leaves, and continue to cook until carmelized.

Add the garlic. Dust the vegetable-meat mixture with enough flour to absorb the oil; set the remainder of the flour aside. Cook for 2 minutes to form a roux.

Add the remaining onions and slowly add 2 cups of stock. Continue to cook until mixture thickens, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove from heat. Remove bay leaves, and mix in the rice. Cool to room temperature.

In a mixing bowl, add the remaining flour, the remaining seasoning blend and baking powder; mix thoroughly. Whisk in the last cup of chicken stock and blend until smooth.

Combine the batter and rice mixture and stir until blended.

Refrigerate until cold. Coat a skillet with 1/4 -inch of vegetable oil. Heat oil to 165 degrees.

Working quickly, form patties, using 1/3 to 1/2 cup of batter for each. Brown on both sides 4 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels or a rack. Serve hot.

Makes about 15 patties.

Source: Adapted from "Louisiana Tastes" by Paul Prudhomme (2000), by Cafe Zenon sous chef Tim Washburn.

Pecan-Glazed Duck

2 cups orange juice

2 cups chicken or duck stock

1 teaspoon finely chopped shallots

1 ounce (one shot) triple sec

1 duck breast (skin on)

4 to 5 teaspoons Cajun Spice Mix, divided

Olive oil for sauteeing

1/4 cup dry white wine

4 tablespoons butter, divided

1/2 cup pecan halves

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Mix orange juice, stock, shallots and triple sec in a large saucepan. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, cooking until it has reduced to about 1 cup. It will be syrupy. Set aside.

Dust the meat side of the duck breast with 2 to 3 teaspoons of the Cajun Spice Mix. Coat the bottom of a heavy, oven-proof skillet with olive oil; put the duck breast in the pan, skin side down and brown, about 3 minutes. Turn and brown the meat side, about 3 minutes.

Turn the breast skin side down again and place the skillet in the preheated oven for 3 to 4 minutes, or until medium-rare.

Remove from the oven and pour off any grease.

Add the juice mixture and wine, and return to the stove top, cooking over medium-high heat until the liquid has reduced to about 1 cup again. Swirl in 2 tablespoons butter as the liquid reduces.

In the meantime, combine the remaining Cajun spice mix and remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and mix with the pecan halves to coat. Toast in a saute pan over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes, until toasted.

Remove the duck to a cutting board and slice thinly. Arrange the slices on four plates.

Put the toasted, coated pecans into the sauce; bring to a boil to blend flavors. Pour the sauce over the duck slices, and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Source: Ambrosia.

Cajun Sticky Chicken

Roux:

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons peanut oil

Cajun Trinity:

1/2 cup diced onion

1/4 cup diced green bell pepper

1/4 cup diced celery

Breading and sauce seasoning:

2 tablespoons paprika

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon dried sage

1 tablespoon thyme

1 1/2 teaspoons basil

1 1/2 teaspoons oregano

1 1/2 teaspoons white pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Other ingredients:

1 1/2 cups strong chicken stock

1/2 cup chopped ham or chopped country sausage

1/4 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

4 to 5 drops Tabasco sauce

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon white pepper

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

2 cups flour

1 frying chicken, cut into 8 pieces (backbone removed)

Peanut oil for frying

Make the roux in a Dutch oven or skillet, heating the peanut oil until very hot and then whisking the flour into it continually until it becomes red and firm. Turn off the heat, add the Cajun Trinity and cook in the residual heat until the vegetables are soft. Keep stirring to avoid burning the roux.

Mix all the ingredients for the breading and sauce seasoning together, and add 3 tablespoons of the seasoning to the roux until thoroughly blended; set the rest aside to be used for the fried chicken.

Bring chicken stock to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the roux a little at a time, letting the sauce simmer and thicken before adding more. Continue this procedure until it reaches the consistency of gravy.

Add the ham or sausage to the gravy, turn the burner to low heat and simmer about 30 minutes.

Add the cream, Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco sauce. Adjust other seasonings to taste.

Pass the gravy through a sieve and set aside.

Blend the salt, white pepper, cayenne pepper, onion powder and black pepper together and dust the chicken pieces with it.

Add the remaining breading and sauce seasoning to the flour; mix and add the seasoned chicken pieces to the seasoned flour and let stand a few minutes.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

While the oven is preheating, heat 1/4 inch of the oil in a Dutch oven or deep fryer to 360 degrees and fry chicken pieces until golden brown but not cooked through. Remove and place browned chicken pieces on a sheet pan with a drip rack. Bake chicken until meat is no longer pink inside. Remove from oven.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Coat the cooked, breaded chicken pieces with sticky gravy and place in the oven until the chicken is hot and has taken on a sticky texture.

Serve with mashed potatoes and braised greens or corn on the cob.

Serves 4.

Source: Adapted from "Louisiana Kitchen" by Paul Prudhomme (1984), by sous chef Tim Washburn at Cafe Zenon.

Bananas Foster

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup butter

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon nutmeg

4 bananas

1 ounce (shot) dark rum

2 cups vanilla ice cream

Combine the brown sugar, butter, cinnamon and nutmeg in a saute pan; cook over medium-high heat until melted and syrupy. Cut the bananas lengthwise and place the slices in the pan, allowing them to become well-glazed.

Carefully pour in the dark rum; the alcohol in the rum will flame. When the flames have died away, set each sliced banana on a plate, and pour the glaze over the slices.

Place a scoop of vanilla ice cream on each plate.

Serves 4.

Source: Ambrosia.

Raini's Bourbon Bread Puddin'

3/4 cups bourbon, or more to taste

3/4 cup seedless dark raisins

1 1/2 loaves (about 3 pounds) challah or firm, unsliced white bread

7 cups heavy whipping cream 

1/2 teaspoon salt

22 ounces white chocolate (preferably Guittard, Schokinag, Callebaut or Ghirardelli), available in fine food stores

15 egg yolks

2 teaspoons vanilla

Soak the raisins in 1/2 of the bourbon until soft, preferably overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Thinly slice the bread and spread on a baking sheet; toast well in the oven until golden brown. Cool.

In a heavy-bottomed stew pot, scald the cream and salt by bringing it just below a boil, until a film forms on the top.

Place the white chocolate chips (or broken pieces) in a large mixing bowl, preferably stainless steel. Add the scalded cream and whisk slowly until smooth. Add the egg yolks one at a time, whisking constantly, until completely incorporated. Add the vanilla, the raisins with bourbon and the remaining bourbon, and whisk until well-blended.

Float the bread slices in the pudding mixture, allowing them to soak up as much of the mixture as possible. Layer the bread slices in a greased 13-by-9-by-2-inch pan or a greased 9-inch springform pan.

If using a springform pan, wrap foil underneath and up the sides of the pan tightly to prevent leakage.

Place the pan on a baking sheet. Bake until completely set, with no jiggling, about 45 to 50 minutes. After 30 minutes of baking time, carefully cover the pan with foil to prevent excessive browning.

Serve warm with cold creme Anglaise or a buttery bourbon sauce.

Serves 8 to 12.

Source: Palace Bakery.

Bourbon Creme Anglaise

2 cups half-and-half

1 cup granulated sugar

2 vanilla bean pods with seeds, scraped

1/4 teaspoon salt

10 egg yolks

1/4 cup bourbon

In a heavy saucepan, combine the half-and-half, sugar, vanilla bean seeds with the pods and salt. Heat over medium-high heat until scalded but not boiling, and remove from heat. Very slowly, whisk in the yolks, one at a time, until thoroughly combined. Return the mixture to the heat, stirring constantly, and cook until it thickly coats the back of a wooden spoon when dipped (about 180 degrees with a kitchen thermometer). Strain into a separate container and set in an ice bath to chill quickly. Add the bourbon; serve chilled.

Makes about 5 cups.

Source: Palace Bakery.

Bourbon Sauce

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 -inch bits

1 cup sugar

1 egg

1/2 cup bourbon

Melt the butter in the top of a double boiler set over hot, not boiling, water. Whisk the sugar and egg together and add to the butter. Stir for 2 to 3 minutes, until the sugar dissolves completely and the egg is cooked, but do not let the sauce come near a boil, because the egg will curdle.

Remove from heat and let sauce come to room temperature before stirring in the bourbon.

Makes about 2 cups.

Source: Palace Bakery.

CAPTION(S):

Pecan-glazed duck with mashed potatoes and vegetables was one of the dishes served at Ambrosia to help raise money for hurricane victims. Kevin Clark / The Register-Guard Bananas Foster was invented in New Orleans in 1951. Blackened oysters were part of Ambrosia's benefit. Bold text and this is light text and this is more light text Kevin Clark / The Register-Guard Cajun Catfish 1 cup fine-ground cornmeal 3 to 4 tablespoons Cajun spice mix 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh parsley 4 catfish fillets, about 6 ounces each Olive oil Combine the cornmeal, spice mix and parsley. Dredge the fillets in the cornmeal mixture. Coat the bottom of a heavy skillet with olive oil over medium-high heat. Brown the fish on one side about 3 minutes, then turn and brown the other side 3 minutes. If the fillets are thick or do not appear to be done, put them in an oven preheated to 350 degrees for about 3 minutes or until the inside is flaky. Serve with tartar sauce. Makes 4 servings. Source: Ambrosia. Tartar Sauce 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 1 tablespoon chopped dill pickle 1 teaspoon chopped capers 1 hard-boiled egg, peeled and forced through a sieve Salt, if needed Combine all ingredients in a small bowl; mix well and refrigerate until time to serve. Source: Ambrosia. CAFE ZENON'S CAJUN BENEFIT DINNER Proceeds from the dinner will be given to Habitat for Humanity's emergency appeal for funds to build housing for newly homeless Americans as a result of Hurricane Katrina. When: Today Where: Cafe Zenon, 898 Pearl St. Cost: $40 per person ($30 goes to Habitat for Humanity) Information: 343-3005 AMBROSIA BENEFIT DINNER Two dinners last week raised more than $5,000 for hurricane victims Kevin Clark / The Register-Guard Dave Proctor, head chef at Eugene's Ambrosia restaurant, has been cooking Cajun food for about 20 years.