CYCLISTS FIND OPEN ROUTE IN PICTURESQUE OJAI.

Byline: MARK LANGTON Cycling

As far as scenic bikeways go, you pretty much have to go to Seattle or San Diego if you want the bike-path experience. Cycling courses in the Los Angeles area have become little more than overcrowded sidewalks for in-line skaters, joggers and a wide assortment of baby strollers.

However, there's a little slice of cycling heaven about an hour's drive northwest of the San Fernando Valley that harks back to a time when you could pedal along without having to worry if you'd be blind-sided by a guy carrying a cooler that resembles a Kenmore freezer.

Ventura County's Ojai resembles a modern-day stage stop for neo-Hell's Angels and Southern California tourists, with a touch of local color thrown in. It seems to be filled with as many recluses and celebrities (Mary Steenburgen and Ted Danson among them) as workaday types trying to escape the metropolis.

And running alongside the main roads - highways 33 and 150 - and straight into the heart of Ojai is the 10-mile Ojai Valley Trail. The wonderfully maintained paved bicycle - and, yes, skating and jogging - trail climbs gradually to the north and east, gaining about 700 feet in elevation from Foster County Park in nearby Casitas Springs to Libbey Park in downtown Ojai. It is favored by road cyclists and mountain bikers alike and attracts tourists, Southland visitors and resident commuters. The ride can be extended to 16 miles if cyclists start in Ventura on a soon-to-be-completed path.

Bicycling and Ojai just seem to go together, and the two often feed off each other.

``There are always people on bicycles stopping in. It's easy for them to park and get their lattes, get a burst of energy, then continue on up the path,'' said Juno, the espresso slinger behind the counter at Java Heaven in Ojai Valley Village.

Since the Ojai Valley Trail runs several hundred yards to the north of Highway 33 at points as it approaches Ojai, Ojai Valley Village is the only ``civilized'' area between Foster and Libbey parks. Modern by Ojai standards, Ojai Valley Village boasts not only a McDonald's but a Taco Bell as well.

``The trail'' is not just for recreation. It's also a popular commuting lane for local residents who would rather ride than drive.

``The trail is very convenient because I can jump on my bicycle and ride the 3 miles to work, and it takes me about as long as it does to drive my car, what with parking and walking to the spa,'' said Rick Hermelin, 58, who recently moved from Thousand Oaks to work as a massage therapist at the Ojai Valley Resort Spa. ``If I wanted to go faster, I'd ride on the road. But I'm in no hurry.''

Ojai certainly loves to celebrate its artisans. Libbey Park, with its California live oak canopy and open-air amphitheater, plays host to several art displays and concerts each summer, the next of which is the Art Ojai Summer Stroll, which takes place Saturday from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. (Information: [phone].) Everything from oil paintings to live music will be on display.

It is said that visiting Ojai is much the same as taking a step back in time; strolling among the local artists' renderings, it's easy to see why. Prices are straight out of the 1950s.

There are plenty of spots in Ojai to eat, drink and be merry, and none is hard to find. Just walk down ``Main Street'' - East Ojai Boulevard - and take your pick. The fare is eclectic, with everything from classic Mexican and traditional Chinese to burgers and fries or fish and chips.

If you're planning to stay the night, check out the Blue Iguana Inn a couple of miles west of town on Highway 33. It's hard to resist the huge mosaic tile iguana fountain in the courtyard and a 30-foot tile dragon snaking around the hot tub.

While the Ojai Valley Trail has for years begun and ended at Foster County Park, that could soon change with an extension to the south.

``The section of trail to the beach (in Ventura) should be done by the end of the month,'' said Robert Coble, owner of Bicycles of Ojai, where, incidentally, bicycles may be rented.(See accompanying info box.) ``It's taken a lot longer than projected, and they still have to finish a few stream crossings. But the pavement is done, so we're hoping it'll be real soon.''

A naturally occurring phenomenon that you don't want to miss is the legendary ``pink moment,'' taking place a few minutes each evening at dusk when the surrounding mountains glow as the sun sets into the Pacific. With the warm breezes wafting scents of citrus blossoms from the local orange and lemon groves, it's no wonder folks return to Ojai to step back in time as often as they can.

IF YOU'RE GOING . . .

Some considerations for bicyclists planning to tackle the Ojai Valley Trail:

Directions: Drive north on the Ventura Freeway (101) to Highway 33 east in Ventura. Exit at Casitas Vista Road and turn left to Foster County Park, where the trail begins and ends.

Heat of the day: Temperatures already are in the low 90s. Start early, bring at least two quarts of water and apply plenty of sunscreen.

Window shopping: For some great art and pottery shops, check out South Montgomery Street on Ojai's east side.

Rentals: Bicycles of Ojai, [phone]; fees - $6 per hour, $26 for the day.

Information: Ojai Valley Chamber of Commerce and Visitor's Center, [phone].

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos, Box

PHOTO (1--Color) Bicyclists ride the Ojai Valley Trail under the mountains of West Ventura County.

(2--Color) Libbey Park arch and Ojai Avenue tower await Ojai Valley Trail riders.

Mark Langton/Special to the Daily News

BOX: IF YOU`RE GOING . . . (see text)