CYCLE AND DINE YOUR WAY THROUGH FRENCH COUNTRYSIDE.

Byline: JeanMarie Brownson Chicago Tribune

There are those of us who only dream of bicycling through France, stopping here and there to dine to our heart's content. And then there is Sarah Leah Chase. Chase has been there, done that and more - she has written two enchanting cookbooks from her idyllic travels.

``Pedaling Through Burgundy'' and ``Pedaling Through Provence'' (Workman; $14.95 each) offer a unique view of the French countryside. Chase, author of ``Nantucket Open-House Cookbook'' and co-author of ``The Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook,'' also is a longtime bicycle tour guide for the Butterfield & Robinson firm.

Chase leads her tour groups (usually about two dozen people) through the countryside in pursuit of exercise and, just as important, good food.

``We spend about half of the tour riding and the other half eating,'' said Chase.

That sounds like a good ratio for food lovers and one that has allowed Chase to record recipes, anecdotes, wine information and cultural tidbits of the countryside.

More than 60 recipes are in ``Pedaling Through Burgundy,'' including such classics as cheese souffle and an updated boeuf bourguignon (Chase skewers the traditional stew ingredients and grills them instead). She also describes a day of biking through rural Burgundy with stops to sample wine, enjoy lunch and purchase creme de cassis (black currant liqueur) for making the perfect kir (1 part cassis to 4 or 5 parts chilled white wine, preferably Aligote from Burgundy, she says).

In ``Pedaling Through Provence'' Chase writes about tasting Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines at Domaine de Pegau and purchasing Beaume de Venise to transport to her home on Nantucket, where she tests recipes and teaches. This book has more than 100 recipes for Provencal dishes such as butterflied leg of lamb with wild grape and mint sauce, salade nicoise and lavender honey ice cream.

The small, softcover books are charming whether you are a bicyclist, a cook or both. Page after page is filled with whimsical illustrations and tempting recipes that Chase has tilted toward American tastes and ingredients.

``Many of the people on the tours find tapenade, the Provencal spread of olives, anchovies and capers, too salty,'' she says. ``So I make my recipe with brandy-soaked dried figs to cut the salt and give the spread a sweet edge.''

She likewise takes some liberties with classic ratatouille. Chase roasts the vegetables to intensify their flavors rather than simmering them in the traditional manner.

The three recipes we tested were easy to follow and enjoyed by tasters. Chase's Dijon deviled chicken, one of her favorites for its simplicity, super looks and taste, also is a good example of her common-sense approach to cooking. Add a side of her mashed potatoes laced with Montrachet cheese and we are ready to ride.

BLACK OLIVE AND FIG TAPENADE

From Sarah Leah Chase's ``Pedaling Through Provence.'' In addition to its role as an appetizer, the tapenade can be served with grilled fish or chicken or on grilled or roasted vegetables.

3/4 cup dried Black Mission figs, stemmed and diced

1/4 cup brandy

1/2 cup water

6 anchovy fillets, drained

2 tablespoons capers, drained

1 tablespoon imported Dijon mustard

1 1/4 cups pitted and chopped imported black olives, such as Gaeta, Nyons OR Kalamata OR 1 cup olive puree

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup fruity olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Toasted rounds of French bread for serving

In a small saucepan, place figs, brandy and water. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat and simmer until figs have absorbed most of liquid, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from heat.

Place anchovies, capers and mustard in a food processor and process to form a paste. Add olives and figs, along with any remaining liquid and process until very smooth. Add lemon juice and olive oil and process again until smooth. Season tapenade with pepper and transfer to a decorative crock or bowl.

Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Serve tapenade at room temperature, accompanied by toasted rounds of French bread. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER 1/4 CUP: 125 calories; 9 grams fat; 2 milligrams cholesterol; 305 milligrams sodium; 10 grams carbohydrate; 1.4 grams protein.

DIJON DEVILED CHICKEN 2 chickens (about 3 pounds EACH), butterflied and backbones removed

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup fruity olive oil

Sea OR coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

4 to 5 heaping tablespoons imported extra-sharp Dijon mustard

1/2 cup mixed minced fresh herbs, such as parsley, chervil, chives and tarragon

Lay butterflied chickens, skin side up, on a work surface. Using heel of your hand, press down on breast bones to crack them and further flatten birds. Tuck wing tips behind shoulders. Place birds in a large glass baking dish and drizzle with lemon juice and olive oil. Marinate at room temperature 1 hour.

Transfer chickens, skin side up, to a large roasting rack with a drip pan underneath. Season with salt and pepper.

In preheated broiler, broil chickens 5 inches away from heat, about 15 minutes, until skin is evenly browned and lightly charred. Using tongs, turn chickens and cook undersides, another 15 minutes, until well browned and lightly charred.

Remove chickens from broiler. Using tongs, turn chickens skin side up. Smear surface of chickens evenly with mustard. Return to broiler to brown mustard until it forms a crust, 2 to 3 minutes.

To serve, split chickens in half, place a half on each of 4 serving plates, sprinkle with herbs. Makes 4 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 960 calories; 63 grams fat; 285 milligrams cholesterol; 650 milligrams sodium; 5 grams carbohydrate; 90 grams protein.

Adapted from ``Pedaling Through Burgundy.''

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Photo

Photo: (Color) Cycling tours of French food countryside led by cookbook author Sarah Leah Chase come to life in ``Pedaling Through Burgundy'' and ``Pedaling Through Provence.''

James F. Quinn/Chicago Tribune