CULINARY ARTS BALL ; A DELIGHT.

Byline: JOHN VOLLERTSEN

I was an invited guest, as a member of the media, to attend the 14th Annual Culinary Arts Ball held last week at La Fonda. I jumped at the chance to go; I wanted to check out the mood and disposition of the members of the Santa Fe Restaurant Association during these challenging times. I am happy to report that all the attendees -- made up of Association members and their supporters, as well as the seven chefs and their assisting kitchen staff who executed the seven-course meal -- were in great spirits: enthusiastic, inspired and celebratory, and clearly not allowing the winds of economic change to ruin their good time.

A zesty Mumm Napa Cuvee sparkling wine kicked off the evening and was a tasty complement to O'Keeffe Cafe chef Laurent Rea's delicate hors d'oeuvres; tiny puff pastry vol-au-vent with Gruyere cheese and chanterelles; tea-smoked Ahi tuna with crispy eggplant; and a mini sandwich of foie gras and five-spice bread

One of the standouts of the evening was Terra at Encantado chef Charles Dale's silken asparagus soup with smoked trout and the chipotle scented trout roe that Dale loves to play with (I just can't get enough of it). Perfectly grilled racks of lamb with wild-boar sausage and dried fruits by Amavi chef David Sellers hit the ball out of the park and had everyone raving -- truly one of the best dishes I've had so far in 2009! Coyote Cafe's Eric DiStefano offered a multi-dimensional study in apples and chocolate that included a yummy strudel, intensely chocolate sponge cake with ganache and a nifty, mini candy-coated caramel lollipop that sent guests home happily sucking on the confection with childlike amusement.

Paired wines were supplied courtesy of Southern Wine & Spirits with bread by Sage Bakehouse, coffee by Aroma and great jazz by Soulstice. With culinary talent this fantastic, I have complete faith that the local fine-dining scene will survive the economic crunch with ease. Mark your calendars to attend next year. Proceeds from the event help fund the printing of the Association's dining guide as well as various scholarships for culinary students -- the next generation of locally grown food stars!

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Two Santa Fe Restaurants are celebrating important birthdays this month. The wonderful Cafe Pasqual's is turning 30. Just think how many fans (and I'm one of them) of Katharine Kagel's unique spin on "equatorial" cooking have passed through the doors of her cozy downtown institution.

La Casa Sena also hits a milestone and celebrates its 25th anniversary by offering patrons a 25 percent discount off their entire lunch or dinner bill in the main dining room, La Cantina, or the Cellar Lounge through Saturday. At 6:30 p.m. Monday, you can help celebrate the restaurant's silver anniversary with a special dinner featuring the talents of the Santa Fe Dining restaurant group that operates La Casa Sena as well as Rio Chama Steakhouse, Blue Corn Cafe, Rooftop Pizzeria and Sleeping Dog Tavern, as well as Chama River Brewing Company in Albuquerque. The cost of the dinner is $72 per person or $99 with wines paired with each of the five courses. Ten percent of the proceeds benefits the Aljaba Orphanage in Creel, Mexico. For reservations, call 988-9232. Visit one or both of these well- established favorites soon and toast their longevity.

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I have been hearing good things about an unbelievable early bird special at Las Fuentes Restaurant & Bar at Bishop's Lodge Ranch Resort and Spa, and when a high-profile friend of mine said she'd heard about it, too, we decided to check it out. The deal sounded so good, I think I was suspicious that the quality of the food might be compromised. But I must admit, we were pleasantly surprised. The three-course prix-fixe menu includes a choice of the evening's soups, a house salad or Caesar salad, four main courses (including one vegetarian option) and a shared dessert -- plus a bottle of red or white wine from a select list created by the chef. All this for $39.95, for two people, plus tax and tip.

My guest and I both chose the Caesar salad and felt it was a tasty rendition of the classic. A basket of gratis warm rolls was a welcome addition to the cold evening. Our entrees were anything but bargain quality: her mussels, potato and chorizo stew topped with a seared fillet of sole drizzled with a basil pesto aioli and my bowl of lobster/oyster mushroom ravioli topped with grilled shrimp and English peas sauced with a rich sherry cream sauce were both delicious. The molten chocolate cake for two was big enough for four, and my friend, a huge chocolate fan, was happy to take the leftovers home to enjoy the next day.

Our Tin Roof Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 was fine with hints of cherry and black currant, certainly drinkable -- perhaps a bit heady for my ravioli -- but perfect with mussels and chorizo, and great with the chocolate cake. Our young server was a delight. The fascinating conversation with my dinner guest, a comfortable dining room, dinner and wine for under $50 including the tip -- you can't beat it. The Early Bird

special is available Sunday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. The menu and wines do change, so call

983-6377 for the latest.

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