CROWDS SURGE IN PARKS AND SO DO DEATHS.

Byline: V. Dion Haynes Chicago Tribune 

Sam Tumolo and Jean Corbus escaped the confines of Cincinnati for a Lewis and Clark adventure in the hinterlands only to encounter a traffic jam on the two-lane road leading into this starkly beautiful summer wonderland in northern Montana.

The city-style gapers blockage was caused by a line of drivers who had stopped to get a close-up view of a bear that had wandered out near the road.

``We got out of the car. We took some pictures and got a front facial look,'' said Tumolo, 50, who later saw three other bears on his visit. ``Looking back on it, I guess that wasn't too safe.''

Many people seeking solace in the backcountry, on the mountain trails and on the rivers of the West are discovering that they are not alone. Last year, the number of people visiting national parks rose to 279 million, from 266 million in 1996. Visitations are expected to reach 300 million by 2000.

That means more traffic, more crowds, and more wear and tear on delicate natural features.

Yellowstone and Yosemite have always been extremely popular attractions. But now parks like Glacier, and Zion and Bryce Canyon in Utah are starting to see a steady influx of more visitors. Glacier's attendance, for example, is up about 22 percent so far this year. A portion of the increase is attributed to overseas visitors from such countries as Germany and France who are fascinated by Western lore.

More time outdoors

Several other factors are at play. With the strong economy, Americans generally have more disposable income for vacations. At the same time, outdoor activities such as hiking, biking, mountain climbing and whitewater kayaking have grown more popular.

The increased numbers are putting a strain on services that were reduced to help balance the federal budget. Restrooms are cleaned less often, and there are fewer rangers to lead tours and conduct rescues, even as accidents rise with growing crowds.

At Glacier, three people have died this year, up from one during the 1997 season.

In one incident, a bear killed a man who had been hiking alone in the woods. The man's partially consumed body was discovered several days after the attack. Another hiker died after slipping off a cliff, falling 150 feet into a canyon. And a woman died when she fell into a canyon while horseback riding.

Deadly accidents also have occurred on several wild rivers throughout the West. A few weeks ago, a 22-year-old man died while trying to steer his kayak over the tumultuous North Fork of the Payette River in southern Idaho.

``I equate kayaking on the North Fork to driving in the Daytona 500. You're upping the ante and increasing the speed,'' said Rob Lesser, who has been kayaking on the Payette for 20 years.

``Where the young man drowned is one of the worst places,'' he said of the Class V rapids. ``There are a lot of hydraulics and drops on that run and it's not easy to get out of it.''

More wild animals 

Officials at the parks are getting more reports of animal sightings, and more reports of contact between wildlife, particularly bears and cougars, and humans. In the case of bears, park officials blame the additional sightings in part on the mild winter that kept many of the mammals from hibernating as long, making them more active.

At Yellowstone, an 80-year-old man was hospitalized last week, treated for a broken right elbow and deep cut in his left thigh, after he was gored by a bison. The bison charged the man as he attempted to walk by the animal on the way to his cabin.

A few weeks ago, a family of four was confronted by a mountain lion at Rattlesnake National Recreation Area in Missoula, Mont. The encounter came about a week after two mountain lions at Rattlesnake stalked a group of children from a day camp. No one was hurt in either encounter.

Officials in Glacier are worried that some bears appear to be losing their natural aversion to people. Some hikers and staff have reported seeing bears lurking near hotels and in parking lots and confronting groups of people on the trails.

Warning visitors

Rangers at Glacier have been particularly vigilant this year in warning visitors about bears. At a slide presentation that outlined park features, Ranger Ginny West warned 50 or so visitors to wear bells or to talk loudly when hiking so they won't surprise a bear. She reminded them to always hike in groups and never to turn their back on or run away from a bear, actions that could trigger its predatory instincts. Park officials also have launched a program that uses dogs to help keep bears out of more populated areas.

As a result of tight budgets, the National Park Service has been unable to fill 900 vacancies around the country. At Glacier, the number of rangers has fallen to four, down from 11 in the late 1970s.

Last year, the park service authorized 130 of the 376 parks to increase their entrance fees, part of a three-year pilot program intended to help raise more money for badly needed maintenance and repairs. Still, officials say the $50 million or so raised from the program each year is a drop in the bucket considering that more than $5.6 billion in repairs are needed.

The service also is trying to raise money by charging higher fees for hotels, restaurants and other vendors that lease park land.

And to help with traffic congestion, the park service is planning by 2001 to introduce light rail and electric buses to several parks, including Grand Canyon and Yosemite.