CREATING BUZZ MOVED FROM WEST HOLLYWOOD, CICADA MAKES NOISE DOWNTOWN.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

The bug first landed on the landmark culinary building near the intersection of Melrose Avenue and La Cienega Boulevard early in 1991.

The bug is the restaurant called Cicada, named after the insect of the same name, and it followed such well-known Italian spots on this site as Bono (as in Sonny) and Silvio (as in DeMori).

Cicada, with Stephanie Haymes (daughter of crooner-actor Dick Haymes and singer Fran Jeffries) as hostess-co-owner, and with chef Jean-Francois Meteignier as her partner, drew a strong movie and music-biz crowd - her husband at the time, and part-owner, was lyricist Bernie Taupin.

Then, surprise, surprise, a couple of years ago Cicada, with Meteignier having departed and opened La Cachette in West L.A., and the kitchen more definitively Italian, moved downtown into the hallowed quarters previously occupied by Rex Il Ristorante, where the late Mauro Vincenti held court.

At this point housed in what is arguably the most dramatic and handsome of all the established restaurant spaces in Los Angeles, the new Cicada ``bugged'' the downtown crowd for a while with its giant duplication of a cicada, then took it down.

But there has been no question since its relocation that Cicada's generally superior food and service easily tops that of any other downtown Italian restaurant.

--Name: Cicada

--Address: 617 S. Olive St., Los Angeles.

--Phone: [phone].

--When we last reviewed: Feb. 27, 1998.

--How long in business: The original West Hollywood Cicada opened in January 1991.

--Menu/cuisine changes: Cicada started out with a Southern French kitchen, then in 1993 when Adelmo Zarif joined the restaurant as partner and Jean-Francois Meteignier left, its menu was transformed into that of a traditional Northern Italian restaurant.

--Decor/physical changes: When in its original location in West Hollywood, the restaurant was designed with a cozy, warm, European-style environment. With its impressive new interior in the historical landmark Oviatt Building, there were no radical decor changes. Stephanie Haymes said she added murals, gold-leafed the ceiling and affixed lighted sconces around the huge room to dramatize the ceiling and give more warmth to the onetime posh, somewhat cavernous haberdashery.

--Personnel changes: Following the opening chef's departure, new partner Zarif and newly hired chef Leonardo Curti changed the kitchen approach from French to Italian in 1993. When the move downtown was made, the opening chef was Andrea Tranchero, who was brought in from Milan. In March 1999, current chef Christian Shaffer took over the kitchen duties.

--Recommendable dishes: Carpaccio di manzo (beef carpaccio), mozzarella burrata (cream-infused mozzarella with sliced tomatoes and basil oil), roasted duck, pancetta-stuffed veal loin, mustard-crusted rack of lamb, profiteroles.

--Service quality: The staff is very professional. Knowledge of menu is apparent.

--Pricing: As a preferred lunch rendezvous by the downtown cognoscenti and a wonderful evening dining experience, prices are high without being ridiculous. At dinnertime, starters range from $6 to $16, pastas and entrees run from $14 to $32, and desserts are $7.50 each.

--Wine list/service: There's a huge multipage list, heavy with Italian and Californian wines. No bargains. Be prepared to spend between $30 and $50 for a good wine. Corkage: $10.

--Policies worth mentioning: Dancing and music in the mezzanine bar and lounge area. Shuttle service is provided to the Music Center. Chef's menu, a six-course prix-fixe dinner is available at $65 per person (minimum two).

--Miscellaneous comments: From Monday through Thursday, the restaurant will be closed for private parties relating to the Democratic National Convention. Normal lunch and dinner service to the public resumes Aug. 18.

A new outside ``patio'' area is available to diners in the lobby of the Oviatt Building.

--Our latest ratings: Three and one half stars for food: three stars for wine: three and one half stars for service.

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Photo:

An Angus ribeye steak and an extensive wine list are featured at Cicada.

Gene Blevins/Staff Photographer