COZY UP TO REAL, RUSTIC ITALIAN FARE AT AMARONE.

Byline: NATALIE HAUGHTON

>FOOD EDITOR

Sometimes a small, charming neighborhood restaurant with good food is a welcome change from all the glitzy places with attitude and hype. Amarone Kitchen & Wine, a West Hollywood newcomer on the Sunset Strip, is just such a place.

The hidden gem, with 12 tables -- four downstairs and the rest upstairs -- is eager to please and offers a wonderful selection of Italian fare, much of it from Emilia-Romagna, the region owner Alessandro Polastri calls home.

After settling at a cozy corner table downstairs next to a wall of wine bottles and a view of the Strip, the owner surprised us with a lovely glass of prosecco -- a friendly gesture. Shortly thereafter, a basket of bread arrived -- including focaccia and an Italian flat bread (piadina) made on the premises -- along with a plate of black olives, roasted red pepper strips and salami pieces for nibbling.

There were 15 tempting appetizer, soup and salad menu choices. The stand-out was the fabulous and beautifully presented Prosciutto e Burrata ($17) -- a round of creamy burrata (imported from Naples twice a week) centered on the plate and surrounded with generous, thin slices of prosciutto and a few roasted red pepper strips strewn in between. This could easily make a meal -- either alone or with a mixed green salad -- and on another visit I would consider it with a glass of wine.

The diver scallops ($14) were tender and luxurious. Two large ones, seared until golden brown and crispy, came perched atop a seafood and asparagus ragu with a steamed in-shell mussel alongside and a splash of basil oil for flavor.

Although it looked appealing, the stacked Caprese salad ($12) with imported buffalo mozzarella layered between vine-ripened tomato slices lacked flavor, even though it was drizzled with some olive oil and accompanied by a few whole basil leaves. Balsamic vinegar, specified on the menu but missing, might have helped a bit. No doubt this would be a better choice at the height of the summer season when tomatoes are singing with rich, juicy flavor. One small tweak for the future -- coring the top tomato slice.

Don't overlook the pastas, ranging from spaghetti, tagliatelli and ravioli to rigatoni, linguine and more. Strozzapreti pasta ($18), a type originated in the countryside of Italy, goes together with flour, water, white wine and saffron. The curly, flat, yellow strips arrived with pieces of shrimp and thin strips of zucchini in brandy sauce and a jumbo shrimp garnish. Cooked al dente, the pasta was judiciously sauced and delicious (although a tad rich) topped with a sprinkling of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

For main dishes, game hen, pork chop, veal chop, rack of lamb, dover sole, striped bass, shrimp and two styles of beef are among the possibilities. Filetto Ubriaco ($25), a filet mignon with a novel and interesting preparation -- stuffed with goat cheese and mushrooms, then rolled up jelly-roll fashion -- was baked, then served on top of potato pieces. A wine sauce, a few asparagus spears, baby zucchini and a baby carrot finished off the plate for a tasty finish. Not much goat cheese flavor was apparent, as most ran out during baking (a sprinkling on top of the beef just prior to serving would have helped).

Tiramisu ($8) served in a towering round was a terrific ending to a leisurely meal. Not overly sweet, it was layered with a mascarpone cheese mixture and espresso-soaked lady fingers, the top dusted with unsweetened cocoa.

The ricotta cake, a complimentary slice plated with some grapes, was delivered to the table but was not a favorite. It was too grainy for our taste. But the glasses of sweet Italian white dessert wine the owner poured were enjoyed. Although the restaurant may not have all the glitz and polish of some other dining hot spots, the owner goes out of his way to make diners feel welcome. He already seems to have a devoted following of neighborhood regulars.

At its best: A small, casual restaurant serving simple, rustic Italian fare with 40 seats and friendly, attentive service by a hands-on owner, who is eager to please.

Could be better: Lighting by a small votive on the table made it difficult to see the food. A few dishes could use a little tweaking to shine.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

[e-mail]

AMARONE KITCHEN & WINE

>Rating: Three stars

>Details: 8868 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; dinner Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday to 11:30 p.m. [phone]; www.amarone-la.com.

>Cost: Appetizers $11 to $17, soups and salads $9, pasta $14 to $18, risotti $20 to $22, main courses $19 to $30, desserts $8.

>Noteworthy: $5 parking behind the Viper Room with ticket validated by the restaurant (tell attendant as you enter). $15 corkage fee for the first bottle; varies thereafter. A variety of Italian wines available, including several reds with restaurant namesake, Amarone. Reservations advised.

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At Amarone, Strozzapreti, a specialty pasta made with white wine and saffron, comes with a jumbo shrimp garnish.