COUNTERFEIT COUTURE; DISCOUNT DIVA SHARES BARGAIN-HUNTING STRATEGY.

Byline: Story by Barbara De Witt 

While those paid-full-price shoppers are still in their jammies making coffee, bargain hunters are already stalking their prey.

It's not quite as bad as predawn shopping by flashlight at the Rose Bowl Flea Market, but searching for haute looks on the cheap isn't for sissies, we learned on an early-morning expedition with discount diva Jane Mannfolk.

A television stylist and makeover specialist seen on ``Leeza,'' ``Better Homes and Gardens,'' ``Power Living by Jake,'' ``The Discovery Channel'' and several A&E documentaries, Mannfolk has spent most of her career dressing other people (and herself) with designer looks for less. She's got it down to such a science that she says she can scour the racks of an off-price store and bag a trophy-worthy ensemble (with hat and shoes) in less than an hour - and under $100.

And she proved it, taking time to share some cheap-chic shopping tips along the way.

``The first lesson in shopping off-price stores is bringing the proper ammunition,'' said Mannfolk, pointing to a dozen or so fashion magazines she'd brought with her.

While we sat in the car waiting for the store to open, she flipped through the pages pointing to pictures of the latest trends, ripping some out and dismissing others. ``I look for outfits that can be easily duplicated, especially those in neutral tones like black, tan and navy. Pink is really hot now, through spring '99, but you can't always find it, especially when it's trimmed with yellow lace like this hot Christian Dior outfit,'' she says, pointing to a recent ad.

She pulls out some pictures of Ellen Tracy sportswear, a couple of Ralph Lauren ads and others selling trendy styles, including quilted parkas, bulky sweaters, faux-fur-trimmed sweaters and evening gowns with sheer fabric over lace. She also adds an ad for Gucci pumps. You know, those cool new ones with the tall, thick Cuban heel and rounded toe.

Armed with our ammunition, we wait outside the door, ready to be among the first Monday morning customers. According to Mannfolk, ``Monday morning, not Saturday afternoon, is when you'll find the best selection at stores like Marshall's, Ross Dress for Less and T.J. Maxx. Another trick is to ask a salesperson what day and time most new shipments arrive.''

The doors open, and Mannfolk hits the racks, fixing her sight on the season's trendiest trends, with her magazine pages on her clipboard as a guide. ``When I'm shopping, I look for the quality of fabrication, the cut of the garment and the feel of the fabric. Better designers like to use subtle tones such as wheat, navy and charcoal gray, and with experience you can quickly spot the fabric quality and workmanship,'' she explains as she runs her hand over a garment and tosses it over her arm.

Within two hours, she's got several designer looks completed, including a Ralph Lauren look-alike ensemble for $84.98, a Marc Jacobs-inspired suit for $138.99, and a pair of black leather pumps that look similar to Gucci's $600 version for $29.99.

We go to another off-price store, where she finds it's a little tougher to spot her quarry. But, then, it's also noon, and the store is packed with bargain hunters.

Mannfolk heads to the women's coat area and mercilessly goes through the racks. She finds a cute red parka with faux fox trim that she likes but says the Tommy Hilfiger quilted parka with a plaid muffler is what she's after. Suddenly she finds it. Hilfiger's is blue, and this one is brown, but she says that's OK. ``It's got the look, and that's what we're after,'' says Mannfolk.

Finding the plaid scarf like the one in the same picture was hard hunting in a sea of floral and leopard-print numbers, but she finally found it in a bright color combo. It was soft and comfy and even had fringe like the one in the picture. Total price? $69.98. Total time spent? Thirty minutes.

With a half-hour to spare, Mannfolk pulled out the Ellen Tracy ensemble featured in Vogue with a model in khaki pants, a fisherman's style sweater knit cap and tan sneakers. ``This outfit will cost several hundred dollars and hasn't even hit the stores yet, but we'll find the look,'' she says.

And does. The sweater isn't wool like the Ellen Tracy design but has the feel of the hefty knit and the popular shrunken look, priced at $19.99. The flat-front khaki pants (she says pleated pants are passe) are a name brand (we're not allowed to tell readers) for only $17.99; the cap is $10.99, and the shoes are also a name brand, marked down to $18.99.

``I couldn't find any sneakers in the women's shoe section, so I went to the men's area. If you've never worn men's sneakers, you need to know that the sizes run bigger. If you normally wear a size 8, go down two sizes and look for a size 6 in the men's department,'' she explains.

While we wait for the clothing to be rung up, Mannfolk shares more advice.

``To get the best bargains, be willing to spend a lot of time thumbing through the racks, because the good stuff is lurking in between the junk. Check for designer labels and name brands and try on several sizes. You may find something wonderful that just needs to be taken in a bit,'' she says.

Not sure if you love it? Mannfolk says most off-price stores won't hold merchandise like department stores, but you can put it on layaway for $5. She also suggests buying and returning it if it doesn't work, because the designer goods go first.

For inexperienced bargain hunters, Mannfolk says to stick to basic items such as a charcoal gray or black skirt that hits below the knee (pleated or pencil-slim), trousers that are lean with a boot-leg silhouette (with or without a cuff) and a white cotton shirt.

And be on the lookout for pink or red, especially in a sweater with three-quarter sleeves, she says, as carnation pink is expected to be a hot seller in the months ahead.

When shopping for evening gowns, Mannfolk prefers black or ivory gowns with the currently popular slip-dress appeal, especially if they've got spaghetti straps or dips in the back. If the style has too many gimmicky details, it won't pass chic - even if it's cheap.

It may sound like a difficult assignment, but not if you do your homework, she adds.

Homework?

Says Mannfolk, ``Bargain hunters have to know a bargain when they see it, and the only way they can is by shopping full-price stores regularly to know what's in style, how much it costs and what fits you best.''

If you're thinking this sounds like too much work - and there are plenty who do - that's fine with Mannfolk. It leaves more cheap chic for her.

Fashionable ways to save

Off-price stores carry a wide variety of merchandise, including really old stuff, current merchandise from over-sells, damaged goods and designer labels from recent seasons. They get weekly shipments, and the best bargains go quickly.

Don't rule out consignment shops. Bargain hunters can find couture fashions that have been worn once or twice and sold for less than half the original price at these stores, where big spenders sell their castoffs. Besides great finds, loyal customers are often called the moment something in their size arrives.

Can't find a sweater on the cheap with marabou feathers or faux-fur trim? Buy the trim at a fabric or craft store for about $10 a yard.

Pearls, sequins and beading are in, and you can save a bundle by doing it yourself.

Couldn't find a long narrow skirt? Sew a strip of chiffon on the hemline, or make an over-skirt to hit mid-calf. This will get you through the season but will probably be passe by next fall.

Want those Christian Dior mules with the fuzz balls on the toes? Use eyelash glue or a hot glue gun to tack on marabou feathers or fur. The eyelash glue also is good for applying rhinestones on your cheek or shoulder for holiday parties.

Need an evening wrap? Buy three yards of tulle or velvet and hem the ends.

Don't let a great coat or blouse get away just because you hate the buttons. When you're buying cheap chic, you can afford to sew on new buttons.

Like retro looks? Mannfolk says you can find sequined or beaded cardigans for $20 to $50 at thrift stores such as Jet Rag and Wasteland in Los Angeles.

Can't afford one of those tiny vintage evening bags all the movie stars are carrying? Stores such as Marshall's as well as junior boutiques like Rampage and lower-priced department stores such as Mervyn's have several look-alike styles for $20.

P.S.: Those with the most status are satin drawstring types with beaded fringe.

- Barbara De Witt

CAPTION(S):

10 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--Cover--Color) On the cover: TV stylist and make-over expert Jane Mannfolk wears the cheap chic version of a Ralph Lauren ensemble she put together for less than $85 at Marshall's in Canoga Park.

(2--Color) Armed with pages of designer looks from fashion magazines, Mannfolk hits the racks at an off-price store. The key, says Mannfolk, is knowing what the current looks are.

(3--4--Color) Mannfolk loved the Marc Jacobs jacket and long pleated skirt featured in the September issue of Vogue, inset, priced at $2,075, but found a very similar look, above, at Marshall's. Total: $138.

(5--6--Color) To get the mood of Angel Sanchez's elegant spaghetti-strap gown featured in In Style magazine, above, Mannfolk chose this black lace dress by Laundry, left, for $29.99. Instead of a chiffon stole, she opted for a feather boa priced at $39.99, all from Marshall's. ``It's not exactly like the one in the ad, but it's got the same straps and silhouette,'' says Mannfolk. Total: $69.98.

(7--8--Color) Love Tommy Hilfiger's quilted parka with a plaid muffler but can't afford the price? Mannfolk found this quilted parka for $59.99 and a flannel muffler for $9.99 at Ross Dress for Less in Sherman Oaks. Total: $69.98.

(9--Color) Can't afford Gucci's retro pumps? We found a similar shoe with a rounded toe and stacked heel for $29.99 at Marshall's.

(10) We loved the tiny beaded evening bag featured in the Neiman Marcus Christmas catalog for $685, and found several cheap-chic versions at Marshall's from $10 to $30 each.

Photos by David Sprague

Box: Fashionable ways to save (see text)