COOL NEWS SCOOP FARRELL'S BACK AND CHILLING ICE CREAM FANS WITH DELIGHT.

Byline: Brent Hopkins Staff Writer

SANTA CLARITA - Once again, ice cream enthusiasts can belly up to the Pig Trough and feel no sense of shame.

Thanks to a team of restaurant and entertainment enthusiasts, Farrell's Ice Cream Parlour - a longtime San Fernando Valley landmark - has re- emerged, complete with its signature enormous desserts. Currently operating in limited capacity at Mountasia Fun Center in Santa Clarita, the full- blown restaurant is slated to open by late January, the first step in what could be a nationwide expansion.

``The concept is ready to come back,'' said Mike Fleming, chief executive officer of Parlour Enterprises. ``We want to do to Farrell's what Volkswagen did to the Bug. We need to show people what fun Farrell's can be.''

It won't be hard for those who remember the chain from its 1970s heyday, where waiters dressed in turn-of-the-century garb beat bass drums, cranked sirens and lugged in massive 10-person desserts on stretchers.

Then, Farrell's was the place to be for birthdays and other special occasions, but its popularity waned in the late '80s as more exotic and sophisticated entertainment took hold.

Nostalgia still looms large for the chain, according to food expert Andy Harris, West Coast representative for the culinary arts organization James Beard Foundation.

``Farrell's is a concept that lost its center a number of years ago,'' he said. ``It had an insanely popular ride, and everyone knew it was the place to go for birthdays because of all the shenanigans they pulled. We still get calls with people looking for it. It's definitely missed in Southern California.''

Founded by entrepreneur Bob Farrell in 1963, the chain grew rapidly, eventually totaling 130 locations nationwide. After changing hands several times, however, the quality of the food declined and it slowly and quietly died.

The 10-or-so locations in the San Fernando Valley have been either redeveloped or torn down, and only a few shops still exist in San Diego and Oregon. These spots, which held on after their original licenses expired, are unaffiliated with Parlour Enterprises and should close up shop in the next year.

The revived chain, which retains Bob Farrell as an adviser, plans to open spots within the San Fernando Valley and Orange County within the next year. Once they're established, Fleming sees possibilities for franchising the concept nationwide.

This could be a tough task, Harris figures, because the original Farrell's reputation suffered in its sunset years.

Especially in Santa Clarita, which has become a very competitive family dining marketplace of late, Parlour will have to be extremely diligent in attracting and retaining diners.

``It's tough to get established up there, because it's not an easy marketplace,'' Harris said. ``People want value for the dollar, a good family-friendly place, and then you've got to have a reason to go back.

``For the people who remember them, they have to re-establish the integrity of their concept and wow their new guests with their quality of food.''

Fleming certainly knows this firsthand - he was a regular at the chain growing up as a teen in Northridge in the '70s. And though his memories of the chain are fond, he admits that toward its end, the food was marginal at best.

``We'll make sure the food is good from day one,'' he said, resting his hands on his stomach. ``I can't even tell you how long it took us to select the ice cream. I'd attribute about 20 pounds that I've gained this year to that job hazard.''

Even in its current form, basically a snack bar with an enormous ice cream selection, the new concept is quickly winning fans.

``I remember Farrell's from way back when,'' said Derrick O'Keefe, a Santa Clarita truck driver. ``I'm glad to see they're finally coming back. This place will be booming in no time. I know my kids will be here.''

The trick, according to Paul Kramer, Parlour's chief financial officer, is to stick to Farrell's founding ideals.

``Bob never had a failure,'' said Kramer, a longtime industry vet. ``The core principle is to have good food and service and make people say the three magic words: 'I'll be back.'''

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5 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2 -- color; 2 ran in Valley edition only) Keith Jucksch delivers a Pig's Trough above, at Farrell's Ice Cream Parlour in Santa Clarita. At left, partner Paul Kramer, CEO Mike Fleming and his brother, Dave Fleming, beat the drum to tell the community Farrell's is back in business.

(3 -- 5 -- ran in Valley edition only) In a jaunty straw hat and arm garters, a server at Farrell's in Northridge in 1979 delivers a tray of ice cream creations, above. Top, right, the enormous Famous Gastronomicaldelicatessenepicurean's Delight sandwich, seen here in 1971, will soon be back on Farrell's menu. At right, Laura Elias of San Fernando treats her 11-month-old son, Joshua, to ice cream at Farrell's in Santa Clarita.

John Lazar/Staff Photographer