COOKS' SHORTCUTS SHAMELESS TRICKS AND CONVENIENCE PRODUCTS SAVE TIME, ENERGY.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Not all of us cook each meal from scratch. In fact, it's probably the rare cook who does. Manufacturers keep coming up with solutions for easy, no-fail, creative meals.

With a little imagination and a few fresh touches, a good kitchen magician can dress up supermarket shortcuts and turn them into a delicious fast meal. Don't feel guilty. Once you get in the habit of using these tricks - which in most cases don't compromise taste - you'll begin to rely on them.

While some of these timesavers may cost more than if you did everything yourself, you save time and energy and skip labor-intensive steps. The convenience is worth it.

The possibilities are vast, but here are some of my favorite step-saving ingredients - and ways to use them.

CANNED CHICKEN, BEEF AND VEGETABLE BROTHS: Since I rarely make stock from scratch due to time and freezer storage constraints, I usually reach for the canned variety for soups, sauces and the like. I generally opt for the reduced-salt versions. You can whip up a soup in short order with canned broth, canned diced tomatoes, tomato paste, combinations of fresh and/or frozen veggies, canned beans and chopped meats.

CREAM CHEESE: I always keep several packages - including regular and reduced fat (Neufchatel) - stashed in the fridge to use on a moment's notice for dips and sauces. You can microwave an 8-ounce package with some cream or milk and Dijon mustard for a creamy sauce to mix with hot cooked pasta, vegetables and a little diced cooked ham or chicken. Or process a package of softened cream cheese in a food processor with bottled roasted red peppers, basil, a splash of red wine vinegar, garlic pepper and some milk or cream to come up with a quick wonderful sauce for hot cooked pasta.

PREWASHED SALAD OR LETTUCE MIXES: These mixes are a boon to those who avoid salads because they're too tired or too frazzled to wash and dry lettuce. You can buy blends with a wide variety or just a single lettuce. Open the bag and you have a salad almost instantly when you toss in a few extras - tomatoes, mushrooms, olives and cucumbers; or oranges, blue cheese and chopped pecans - and add some dressing, either bottled or a little olive oil and red or white wine or balsamic vinegar.

Try the mixes as the base for a main-dish Greek salad, cobb, chef, Caesar or antipasto salad. You'll be amazed how quickly you can turn out a meal when the lettuce is ready to toss. I avoid the mixes with the little packets of dressings and other items in them - they're a little pricey and don't taste as good as doctoring up the lettuce mixes yourself.

PREWASHED FRESH SPINACH: Use as a base for main or side-dish salads or steam it and serve as a side vegetable to accompany meats, fish and chicken. It also makes a good bed or base to showcase grilled fish, chicken and the like. You can also toss fresh spinach into quick, homemade soups or microwave it, cool and chop and use it in cream cheese or sour cream dips.

PREBAKED PIZZA STYLE CRUSTS (such as Boboli): Available in assorted sizes and thick or thin crusts. Short of using pizza dough from an Italian market or homemade, this wins hands-down for designing your own pizzas at home. (The pizza crusts in cans and the refrigerated rolled out variety in the supermarket refrigerated deli section don't have as much flavor). I've used Boboli successfully for the base of Thai chicken pizza, barbecued chicken pizza, goat cheese and sun-dried tomato pizza, Tex-Mex renditions with salsa, corn, black beans and shredded cheeses, and more. You can also drizzle the crust with a little oil, add a sprinkle of fresh herbs and perhaps some Parmesan or goat cheese and bake for a bread accompaniment to a soup, salad or entree.

TORTILLAS: Keep flour or corn - or some of the newer flavors like spinach, tomato, etc. - handy in the fridge or freezer to use for quick quesadillas, burritos, tacos, sandwich wraps or in Tex-Mex style lasagna or casseroles (layer with cooked chicken pieces and cheese and salsa or canned soup). You can fill them with canned or quick homemade chili and cheese for burritos and wraps or whip up pan-grilled stove-top quesadillas fast with shredded cheese, a little salsa and some diced green chiles (and even toss in some leftover meat). Accompany with guacamole and sour cream or your favorite fruit salsa (such as pineapple or mango). Also consider scrambled egg-filled tortillas for brunch or a light supper.

CANNED BEANS: The possibilities are numerous and lend themselves to a wealth of ideas from dips to soups, cassoulets, entrees and salads. Keep your pantry shelf stocked with cans of black, cannellini, garbanzo, red kidney, chili, barbecue, Boston baked and refried beans. For a hassle- free dinner, you can turn out beef or sausage and barbecued beans (stir in a few spoonfuls of prepared mustard and ketcup or hickory-flavored barbecue sauce to zip them up) or Tuscan white bean salad with tuna, garlic, chopped tomatoes, lemon juice and fresh basil or all kinds of fast homemade chilis in less than 15 minutes. You can turn out a good hummus with garbanzos, garlic, lemon and tahini (sesame paste) in a food processor.

CANNED PEELED CUT-UP TOMATOES: These are a cook's lifesaver - and I couldn't live without them. Granted, when homegrown tomatoes from the garden are available and in season, they'd be my first choice, but the season doesn't last long. Peeled and diced canned tomatoes are a great substitute, and I use them often. Available in 14 1/2- and 28-ounce cans (S&W is the favored brand), they're fabulous in chiles, soups, stews, pasta dishes, casseroles, spaghetti sauces, and skillet dishes like Spanish rice. I prefer to add my own herbs, spices and seasonings to avoid flavored and stewed tomatoes.

And don't cringe. When fresh tomatoes cost a bundle, I even drain off the liquid from these canned tomatoes and toss them in pasta salads or with assorted lettuces in my green salads. It's called making do.

ALL READY PIE CRUSTS: With these, packaged in a 15-ounce box of two pastry crusts and available in the refrigerated deli section of the market, pie-baking is simple. No rolling or pastry making required. Each rolled-out crust comes folded in quarters in a plastic pouch so you simply unfold to make a 9-inch crust. Either prebake the crust and fill or simply fill (with sweet or savory ingredient combinations) and bake all at once. You'll need both crusts for a double crust pie. Besides using to line standard pie pans, the crusts work well in fluted tart pans and can be used as the base for other recipes such as bar cookies.

These are versatile and can be kept frozen until needed. (You can cheat and thaw a few seconds in the microwave if you need to use pronto out of the freezer, but watch carefully to avoid softening too much). When I've used these crusts people often ask me for my pastry recipe. The only drawback is that they contain lard, which is loaded with cholesterol, but that's what makes pie crusts flaky and tender.

FRESH OR DRY PASTAS: I'm not about to make my own pasta so I keep fresh pasta in the freezer along with assorted shapes and colors of dried pastas on my pantry shelf to build terrific spur-of-the-moment meals. Opt for different variations of fresh, including tortellini, tortelloni, ravioli, gnocchi, etc., stuffed with cheeses, herbs, sausage, chicken and beef, as well as angel hair, fettuccine, linguine or whatever strikes your fancy. Fresh pastas cook even faster than their dried counterparts.

Top with the usual tomato sauces or try with prepared pesto sauce thinned with a little cream and some veggies. A sauce of whipping cream and melted brie cheese is delicious too. Keep in mind that you can make a Tex-Mex or Italian-style lasagne without precooking the noodles first; simply add more liquid to the layers, cover and bake.

SALSA: There are plenty of flavor and texture options here, so pick a couple of bottled favorites to keep handy in the pantry. If you plan to use them within a week or two, you might want to purchased the refrigerated salsas, which are fresher tasting but not as convenient. Salsas of all varieties (tomato, pineapple, mango and the like) lend themselves to adding Tex-Mex and other flavors to skillet creations, dips, rice, cold bean and corn salads, salad dressings and more. Also use salsa to top grilled chicken breasts, steaks and the like. And of course, it's a great dip with chips when you have nothing else on hand.

FROZEN VEGETABLES: Keep a supply of lots of different single vegetables as well as combinations to use in salads, soups, stir-fries and more. Some favorites include corn for chowder, sugar snap peas and various combinations for stir-fries, assorted strips of red, green and yellow peppers, baby peas and haricots verts. I like the quality of some of the Trader Joe's offerings.

FROZEN FRUITS: Lots of possibilities are available including pineapple, raspberries, strawberries, mango, melons and assorted fruits to make into quick fruit salads or compotes (serve topped with cottage cheese for a light dinner during summer), cobblers or pies. Single fruits or combinations are also great whirred into smoothies for breakfast or a snack or pureed for sauces for ice cream, cake or waffles. Try processing frozen raspberries with tofu in a food processor for a quick frozen dessert.

SHREDDED CHEESES: Keep several kinds (flavor- and fat-wise) - including some of the blends - ready to add to tostadas, lasagna, casseroles, salads, pizzas, sandwiches or English muffins. The larger the bag, the bigger the price break. Once opened, these cheeses have a tendency to lose freshness faster than a large block of cheese.

ROASTED RED PEPPERS: Available in jars (Mezzetta brand is my preference), these are wonderful for those in a hurry. Rinse and drain them, then puree in a food processor for sauces or dips or cut them up and toss in soups, salads, sandwiches and main dishes. Also try marinating pieces in oil, vinegar and a little garlic and serve as part of an Italian antipasto platter. Once you get in the habit of using the bottled, you may never go back to roasting your own.

CANNED GREEN CHILES: Available whole or diced, these give a flavor boost to dips, quesadillas, rice, chiles rellenos, sauces, chili, pizzas, entrees of all kinds and more. Whenever I whip up a crustless quiche for brunch or dinner, I pour beaten eggs mixed with a little milk or cream and seasoned with chiles and seasoned salt and garlic pepper over plenty of shredded cheese in a pie plate. Bake until set and you're in for some tasty dining.

CANNED AND BOTTLED OLIVES: I keep all colors and flavors of pitted olives handy for tapenades (made in no time flat in the food processor) as well as to embellish casseroles and, particularly, salads and pasta dishes. The tapenades can be mixed with cream cheese for a dip, spread on rustic bread slices to accompany soups and more.

ARTICHOKE HEARTS: I prefer the canned to frozen (which I find watery and flavorless). Buy quartered and rinse and drain well (I add a sprinkling of red wine vinegar and drain well to get rid of the canned taste) before adding to cold marinated vegetable or pasta salads. Also great in baked artichoke cheese dip. You'll find many ways to use them.

PACKAGED ROASTED REFRIGERATED CHICKEN BREASTS: What a fabulous and convenient shortcut. To save money, I purchase these at a warehouse store (Tyson brand) where they are in the neighborhood of $10-$12 per package of 6 or so breasts. Remove the skin and bones and slice, chop or cut in strips to use in the full gamut of dishes from soups and salads to entrees. Keep some frozen to thaw on a dime when you don't have any other protein on hand to help solve the dinner dilemma.

ASSORTED MUSTARDS: I've been hooked on a large variety - including Dijon, honey mustard, grainy, hot and prepared yellow mustards - for years. I keep a large assortment in the fridge to jazz up chicken and all kinds of salads, sauces, pasta creations, salad dressings, chicken breasts and much more. One of my favorite fast creations is a sauce for pan-grilled skinless, boneless chicken breasts made by heating together whipping cream and Dijon mustard until boiling (and then cooking down a minute or two). Gussy up with a sprinkling of chopped fresh parsley or tarragon. I also combine Dijon or honey mustard with apricot jam for a dynamite glaze for baked ham or chicken breasts.

BOTTLED TOMATO SAUCES: At one time I was horrified that cooks would rely on these, but there are so many flavor options and different brands that I've joined the ranks, especially when I'm tired and there is nothing else around to eat. Most often I doctor them up with red or white wine, extra dried basil, canned or fresh mushrooms, olives and even broccoli florets or other veggies. Sometimes I toss in pieces of microwaved sausage for a flavor boost.

BOTTLED SALAD DRESSINGS: Although I prefer combining oil and red wine or balsamic vinegar with a few seasonings for my dressings, I keep a few bottled dressings (Italian, Ranch and a couple of others) on hand to use in a pinch for marinating meats (try on round or flank steak), fish and poultry before grilling, doctoring up assorted salads and adding to cooked shrimp.

Now you get the idea. There are other food items like barbecue sauce, ground beef, canned tuna, sun-dried tomatoes, pudding and pie filling mixes, whipping cream and semisweet chocolate chips that are standards in my kitchen, too. You probably have your own reliables.

So keep your pantry, fridge and freezer well stocked and you'll never be in a panic. You'll be able to create many meals with lightning speed.

NATALIE'S FAST TURKEY BLACK BEAN CHILI

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 large cloves garlic, crushed through a press

1 1/2 tablespoons chili powder

2 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin 

1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt

1 (28-ounce) can diced, peeled tomatoes, undrained

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

2 (16-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed and drained

2 to 3 cups diced cooked turkey OR chicken

Dairy sour cream, shredded Cheddar cheese, chopped tomatoes and chopped green onions for top

In a large pot, cook onion in oil over medium-high heat a few minutes, stirring often, until onion is soft. Add garlic, chili powder, cumin, salt, undrained tomatoes, tomato paste and black beans. Heat to boiling, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, 10 minutes.

Stir in turkey and cook, uncovered, 5 minutes longer.

Serve topped with sour cream, cheese, tomatoes and green onions, if desired. Makes 5 to 6 servings.

NOTE: Chili can also be made with 1 pound lean (uncooked) ground beef or ground turkey instead of cooked turkey or chicken. Add beef or turkey to skillet along with onion and cook, stirring often, until beef or turkey is browned, crumbly and cooked through. Drain off any excess fat. Add other ingredients as directed (except cooked turkey) and proceed as recipe directs.

This chili is versatile and can also be used as a base for tostada salad (line plate with chili and top with shredded or cut-up lettuce, chopped tomatoes, shredded cheese, sour cream and guacamole as desired). Chili is also good as a burrito or taco filling, or mixed with cream cheese and shredded cheese for a hearty dip.

MICROWAVE HALIBUT AND VEGETABLES

This is one of the fastest and most delicious ways to prepare fish. The recipe works well with soft as well as firm fish. Figure about 7 minutes of microwaving time per pound of fish.

1 (16-ounce) package frozen zucchini, mushrooms, pearl onions and carrots OR any other frozen vegetable combination desired

1 pound halibut steaks, 3/4-inch thick

1 lemon

1 1/2 teaspoons dried dill weed

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

1 medium green bell pepper, chopped

1/4 teaspoon garlic salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

Place package of frozen vegetables on a double thickness of paper plates. Pierce holes in a couple of places in top of package with a knife. Cook in microwave oven on high power 7 to 8 minutes, or until thawed and partially cooked. Drain off excess water; set vegetables aside.

Arrange fish in a 10-inch pie plate or oval microwave-safe baking dish. Squeeze juice of 1/2 lemon over fish and sprinkle with dill weed. Cover with microwave-safe plastic wrap. Cook in microwave on high 3 1/2 minutes, turning dish once during cooking time. Remove from oven and drain off and discard any excess liquid from dish.

Place tomatoes, green pepper and partially cooked vegetables on top and around sides of fish. Sprinkle with garlic salt and pepper. Squeeze juice of remaining 1/2 lemon over top. Cover with plastic wrap. Return to microwave and cook on high 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 minutes, or until fish flakes easily when pierced with a fork.

Serve fish with vegetables. Garnish with lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings.

From ``365 Easy One-Dish Meals'' by Natalie Haughton (Harper & Row).

SOUTHWESTERN CORN SALAD

1 (15-ounce) can black-eyed peas OR black beans, drained and rinsed

1 (11-ounce) can Mexicorn, drained

1/4 cup finely chopped red onion

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon seeded, finely chopped serrano OR jalapeno chile OR a few dashes Tabasco sauce

Combine black-eyed peas, Mexicorn, red onion, cilantro, lime juice and chile in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour to blend flavors. Serve on lettuce. Makes 6 (1/2-cup) side-dish servings OR 3 (1-cup) entree servings.

APPLE AND GREEN CHILE SALAD

2 cups (2 medium) chopped red and green apples

1 cup (2 large stalks) sliced celery

1/2 cup chopped walnuts, toasted

1/2 to 1 (4-ounce) can diced green chiles

1/3 cup prepared ranch-style salad dressing

1/4 cup mayonnaise

Lettuce leaves (optional)

Combine apples, celery, nuts, chiles, salad dressing and mayonnaise in a medium bowl.

Cover, refrigerate 1 hour. Serve over lettuce leaves. Makes 6 servings.

SKILLET CHICKEN FAJITAS 

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1/4 cup picante sauce

4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, cut into thin strips

Salt and pepper 

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 large red OR green bell pepper, cut into thin strips

Choice of toppings: chopped tomato, shredded cheese, dairy sour cream, avocado slices OR guacamole and salsa

4 to 8 flour tortillas

Spray skillet with nonstick cooking spray.

Combine lime juice and picante sauce and use to coat chicken well. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. < Stir-fry chicken over medium-high heat until cooked through, about 7 to 8 minutes. Remove to a plate. Stir-fry onion and pepper in same skillet until crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare toppings and heat tortillas. To heat tortillas, wrap in a damp paper towel; microwave on high power 30 seconds, or until warm.

Serve chicken and onions and peppers on hot tortillas and wrap up with desired toppings. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

SOUPER CHICKEN TETRAZZINI

8 ounces uncooked spaghetti

Water

2 tablespoons butter

2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms

1 small onion, chopped

2 (10 3/4-ounce) cans condensed cream of chicken OR mushroom soup

1 soup can milk

2 tablespoons dry sherry

2 cups cubed cooked chicken

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Cook spaghetti in boiling water according to package directions; drain.

Meanwhile, in a 2-quart saucepan, over medium heat, in hot butter, cook mushrooms and onion until tender, stirring occasionally. Stir in soup, milk and sherry; heat through.

Return cooked spaghetti to cooking pot. Add soup mixture, chicken, Parmesan and parsley. Toss lightly until spaghetti is coated. Over medium heat, heat through.

Serve with additional Parmesan, if desired. Makes 6 cups or 4 servings.

CHILI DOG CASSEROLE

2 (15-ounce) cans chili with beans

1 (16-ounce) package beef franks

10 (8-inch) corn OR flour tortillas

1 (8-ounce) package shredded mild Cheddar cheese

Spoon 1 can chili into a 13x9-inch baking pan.

Roll up beef franks inside tortillas. Place in a baking dish, seam-side down. Top with remaining can chili and cheese. Cover pan with foil.

Bake in preheated 425-degree oven 30 minutes. Makes 10 servings.

CREAMY CHOCOLATE PIE

1 3/4 cups cold milk

2 (4-serving size) packages chocolate OR chocolate fudge flavor INSTANT pudding and pie filling mix

1 (8-ounce) tub frozen whipped topping, thawed

1 prepared chocolate flavor crumb crust (6 ounces)

Pour milk into a large bowl. Add pudding mixes. Beat with a wire whisk just until mixed. (Mixture will be thick.) Immediately stir in thawed topping.

Spoon into crust. Refrigerate 4 hours or until set. Garnish as desired. Store leftover pie in refrigerator. Makes 8 servings.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos, drawing

Photo:

(1) To save time, use prewashed bagged lettuces as the base for a quick grilled chicken main dish salad.

(2) Versatile turkey black bean chili can be eaten as is, or served in a tostada, burrito or taco for a quick meal.

(3) Southwestern corn salad goes together in a jiffy and is a good choice to accompany grilled steaks or fish.

Drawing: (color) no caption (cartoon chefs and clocks)

Jorge Irribarren/Staff Artist