COOK'S CORNER SEND CUPID'S ARROW FLYING.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Special foods, gifts or dinners are always welcome on Valentine's Day - and if you haven't settled on something delicious yet to say ``I love you,'' any one of these creations might help. Unfortunately, they're not designed for the calorie conscious. But if you follow the motto ``Everything in Moderation,'' indulge a little.

Whip up a delicious batch of swirled candy to win hearts. The idea is one I've been making for years, but instead of melting the peanut butter with semisweet chocolate chips, I've melted it with white chocolate chips in the recipe here. The semisweet chocolate is mixed with a little cream. The idea for reversing the mixture came from an idea spotted in the February issue of Bon Appetit magazine.

And speaking of Bon Appetit, just last week I came across Barbara Fairchild's (she's the magazine's editor in chief) favorite brownie recipe. It's one her mother, Ina Lieb of Studio City, has been making for 55 years. ``I got the recipe when I was first married,'' said Lieb, adding that her three girls and their friends love it. Fairchild refers to the brownies as the ``best on the planet,'' and will bake and wrap them up for Valentine's Day with a heart-shaped note on top.

I couldn't wait to try them. Yes, they are terrific and definitely winners. In fact, they're so good it's difficult to stop eating them!

They go together in a jiffy, if you melt the butter and chocolate in the microwave oven and then simply whisk in the eggs, sugar and vanilla and then the flour. ``Don't overmix,'' cautions Lieb. And make sure you use the specified pan size, stresses Fairchild.

If a romantic dinner is on the agenda, serve pan-grilled beef tenderloin steaks topped with bearnaise sauce. It may be passe, but it tastes great - and several of the steak houses still serve the sauce. Included is a blender version that I've been making, off and on, for years. It's easy and foolproof, but be sure to make it just before serving. (You can measure and assemble the ingredients in advance.)

These ideas should get you through Valentine's Day and beyond in style.

SWIRLED PEANUT BUTTER AND CHOCOLATE CANDY

1 (10-ounce) package white chocolate chips (such as Trader Joe's)

3/4 cup extra-crunchy peanut butter

1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips

6 tablespoons whipping cream 

Line an 11x17-inch baking pan with nonstick foil. Combine white chocolate and peanut butter in a 1-quart glass measuring cup. Heat in microwave oven on high power 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, watching carefully, until chocolate and peanut butter have melted completely when stirred. Spread mixture evenly in prepared pan; freeze about 10 minutes, until partially set.

Meanwhile, place chocolate chips and cream in another glass measuring cup. Heat in microwave oven on high power 1 minute, until chocolate is melted and smooth when stirred. Drop chocolate mixture over peanut butter mixture and with a table knife carefully swirl into white part. Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours. Cut candy into 1-inch or larger squares; serve cold.

INA LIEB'S BROWNIES

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, cut into pieces

4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, cut into pieces

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar 

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup chopped walnuts (optional)

Lightly butter an 8-inch-square baking pan. In a microwave-safe bowl, heat butter and chocolate in a microwave oven on high 1 to 2 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking, until melted. Cool chocolate mixture 10 minutes. (Or in the top of a double boiler, over hot, not simmering, water, heat butter and chocolate, stirring until smooth. Remove top part of double boiler from bottom and cool chocolate mixture 10 minutes.)

In a large bowl, whisk eggs and gradually whisk in sugar until well- mixed. Mix in melted butter-chocolate mixture just to combine. Do not beat or overmix. Add flour, 1/2 cup at a time, gently mixing after each addition, taking care not to overmix. Stir in vanilla and walnuts just until combined. Scrape batter into prepared pan. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 25 to 35 minutes. Check after 25 minutes to see if brownies are done; if they are, a toothpick inserted into center should come out clean. However, if sides are well-baked, but center is still a bit sticky, remove brownies from oven. Transfer pan to a wire rack to cool. Cut into squares. Makes 9 large brownies (more if you cut smaller).

BLENDER BEARNAISE SAUCE

1 teaspoon chopped shallots

3 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar

3/4 teaspoon dried tarragon

3 egg yolks

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 pound (1 stick) butter (no substitutes)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

In a small saucepan, simmer shallots, wine vinegar and dried tarragon 2 to 3 minutes, until reduced by half. Cool and turn into blender container. Add egg yolks and salt and blend a few seconds. In a small skillet or saucepan, heat butter until foaming hot, but don't let it brown.

Remove cover from small hole in blender lid; turn blender on high speed and slowly pour in hot butter. Blend until smooth. Turn off blender and stir in parsley and lemon juice. Serve with 4 thick pan-grilled (in a mixture of butter and oil) beef tenderloin steaks (filet mignon). Makes 1 cup, enough for 4 servings.

NOTE: If you don't have tarragon vinegar, use white wine vinegar and add some extra dried tarragon. Sauce is also delicious served over grilled chicken, steamed vegetables, etc.