COOK'S CORNER READY FOR ROSH HASHANAH?

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Hot off the press, just in time for Rosh Hashana, is ``How to Keep Kosher: A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding Jewish Dietary Laws,'' by Lise Stern (William Morrow; $24.95). Stern explores the ins and outs of the Jewish dietary laws and draws on her culinary expertise and personal experiences in keeping a kosher home. Her goal is to make kashrut accessible to everyone and take the intimidation out of keeping kosher. She delves into why you can't mix meat and dairy dishes, how to turn a nonkosher kitchen into a kosher one, do you need multiple pot, pan, dish and utensil sets and how to keep track of everything. She includes specific food preparation requirements and foods for Jewish holidays and Shabbat along with numerous recipes.

Rosh Hashana begins at sundown Sept. 15, and the most well-known foods associated with the holiday are apples and honey. The Torah does not require any particular foods to be eaten on Rosh Hashanah, but challah is one of the basics, shaped in a spiral round, she notes.

Following is a recipe from the book for honey cake, a Rosh Hashanah tradition. This one, studded with fruits and nuts, is a bit different than some recipes, but has a pleasing complexity of flavors (honey, orange and spices). The cake has no fat or eggs added - and it's not a mistake, adds the author.

Stern notes that she's been making the cheesecake-like kugel for years. It would be a good option for breaking the Yom Kippur fast. The recipe, shared by a friend and caterer, is a classic that always receives compliments and recipe requests.

Another do-ahead possibility to break the fast is her Chilled Herb-Baked Salmon. Unlike most cold salmon preparations where the fish is poached, this one is baked, yielding a moist, tender, flavorful result. Be sure to buy the freshest fish possible; frozen salmon won't taste as good.

HONEY CAKE

(PAREVE) 3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1 3/4 cups honey

1 1/2 cups orange juice

1/2 cup pistachio nuts

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

1/2 cup raisins, dried cherries OR dried cranberries

1/2 cup roughly chopped dried apricots

1/4 cup slivered almonds

Grease 2 (9x5-inch) loaf pans. Sift flour, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and baking soda into a large bowl. Mix honey and orange juice in a separate bowl until blended. Add pistachios and walnuts. Add nut and honey mixture to dry ingredients and mix well. Stir in raisins and apricots. Do not overmix.

Divide batter between the 2 pans. Sprinkle top of each with slivered almonds.

Place pans in a preheated 350-degree oven and reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees. Bake 1 hour and 45 minutes. Test for doneness after 90 minutes with a skewer or toothpick. If it comes out dry, then cakes are done. Cool cakes on a rack 30 minutes and loosen sides before unmolding. Makes 2 (9x5-inch) loaves; 12 to 16 servings.

CLASSIC LOKCHEN KUGEL

(DAIRY) Water and salt

1 pound medium egg noodles

1/4 cup salted butter, melted

5 eggs

1 pound cottage cheese

2 cups sour cream

1 cup milk

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup crushed cornflakes for top (optional)

Lightly butter a 9x13-inch baking pan. Boil 2 quarts water mixed with 2 teaspoons salt in a large pot. When water boils, cook egg noodles according to package directions, until al dente, still slightly chewy at center. Drain and toss with melted butter. Set aside.

Beat eggs in a large bowl. Add cottage cheese, sour cream, milk, sugar and vanilla. Mix until well blended. Add noodles to cheese mixture and mix well. Pour into prepared pan. Top with crushed cornflakes, if desired. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 1 hour, until golden brown. Makes 8 servings.

CHILLED HERB-BAKED SALMON

(PAREVE) 1 tablespoon dried dill

1 teaspoon dried oregano 

1 teaspoon dried thyme

Dash cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon paprika 

1/2 teaspoon salt OR to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper OR to taste

1 (4-pound) salmon fillet

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 lemons, skin scrubbed and thinly cut into 1/16- to 1/8-inch slices

Lightly oil a 9x13-inch baking pan. Mix together dill, oregano, thyme, cayenne, paprika, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Rinse fish, pat dry and drizzle both sides with olive oil, rubbing and working it in with your fingers. Place fish in pan, skin side down. Sprinkle top with herb mixture. Place lemon slices over herbs on salmon. Place any extra slices next to fish in pan.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 40 to 50 minutes, until center of salmon is opaque. Let cool to room temperature, then chill in refrigerator overnight. May also be served warm. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

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no caption (Book: ``How to Keep Kosher: A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding Jewish Dietary Laws'')