COOK'S CORNER MAKING SPANISH STAPLE AT HOME.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Lisa Wells just wrote that she'll be in town for six weeks and hoped to get a recipe for homemade chorizo. Although she has a friend back home who makes it, the friend won't share the recipe.

Wells is in luck. Following is a recipe from ``Bruce Aidells' Complete Sausage Book,'' by Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly, Ten Speed Press ($21.95), which just arrived on my desk in paperback. Aidells founded the San Francisco-based Aidells Sausage Co. in 1983 - and many of his creative and deliciously flavored sausages can be found in supermarkets and Costco. Of course, if you feel inclined to make your own, give his vast recipe collection a try.

``Chorizo is the Spanish word for sausage, so it can be a bit confusing when you find the word referring to different types of sausages made in Spain, Mexico, South America, and (with slightly differing spellings) in Portugal (chourico) and Louisiana (chaurice),'' writes Aidells.

``The Mexican version usually contains ground pork mixed with lots of cumin, pure chile powder and fresh hot peppers, such as serrano or jalapeno. Again, as with many peasant sausages, there are variations depending on the place of origin or family traditions. Some chorizos contain cinnamon - others, tequila; some are served fresh and lightly spiced - others are dried, pungent and decidedly funky. This recipe is a basic one that you should feel free to vary and embellish with your own personal touch.

``Since it's usually used in bulk, chorizo is an easy sausage to make in a food processor. Wrap 1/2- to 1-pound quantities in foil, label and freeze until needed. We prefer to use pure ground dried chile powders for heat in this recipe. Pure chile powders are found in most Latino markets. If unavailable, use a good-quality commercial chile powder blend. Use chorizo as a filling for enchiladas or tacos, in sauces, or fried with eggs or rice.''

CHORIZO

1 1/2 pounds pork butt

1/2 pound pork back fat

1 bunch (4 to 6 ounces) fresh cilantro, chopped (1 cup) (optional)

1 fresh serrano, jalapeno OR other hot chile, seeded and finely chopped

1/4 cup red wine vinegar 

1 tablespoon New Mexico OR other ground dried chile powder

1 tablespoon sweet Hungarian paprika 

2 teaspoons kosher salt 

1 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground coriander 

For details on making sausage, see the book.

Grind meat and fat through a 1/4-inch plate or in batches in a food processor. Transfer ground meat and fat to a large bowl. Add cilantro, chile, vinegar, chile powder, paprika, salt, cumin seeds, ground cumin, black pepper, cayenne and coriander. Mix together with your hands and chill overnight. Package and place in freezer or refrigerator. Chorizo will keep in refrigerator 3 days, or in the freezer 2 months. Makes about 2 pounds.