COOK'S CORNER JULIA CHILD IN WORDS AND RECIPES.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

With the death of Julia Child on Aug. 13, there's been renewed interest in her cookbooks.

At Cook's Library (specializing in cookbooks) in Los Angeles, a number of customers have asked for ``Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume One,'' Child's first cookbook written with Simone Beck, published in 1961.

``It was her very first cookbook, and they believe it's a collector's item,'' says bookseller Tehra Thorp. ``People have been calling the store looking for autographed copies, which we don't have.'' While there is as much interest in ``Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume Two,'' as in Volume One, the store is out of stock of that particular book but has other titles.

People who are intending to cook from one of Child's books rather than stash it on a shelf are buying ``The Way to Cook,'' which was published in 1989.

Sales of Child's books had dwindled until the announcement of her death, adds Thorp, but since then there's been a flurry of buying and interest.

At Vroman's Bookstore in Pasadena, Child's hometown, where her cookbooks are consistent sellers, sales have increased in the past week and half, but the books are not flying off the shelf, notes Sherri Gallentine, inventory manager. It's probably because ``she's been a household name for so many years that many people have her cookbooks already.''

Child did a book signing at the store in 1999.

Although people have been buying ``The French Chef Cookbook,'' ``Julia's Kitchen Wisdom,'' ``The Way to Cook'' and both volumes of ``Mastering the Art of French Cooking,'' the biography of Child, ``Appetite for Life,'' by Noel Riley Fitch, has captured the most interest and sold the most copies since her death, says Gallentine.

In tribute to the grande dame of cooking, give these favorite Child recipes a whirl. She left a legacy of delicious creations for diners to enjoy.

LA REINE DE SABA

(THE QUEEN OF SHEBA CHOCOLATE ALMOND CAKE)

1 stick unsalted butter

1/2 cup granulated sugar

3 eggs, separated

3 ounces semisweet chocolate

1 ounce bitter OR unsweetened chocolate

2 tablespoons dark rum OR strong coffee

1/3 cup unblanched pulverized almonds

1/2 cup sifted cake flour

Powdered sugar for dusting (optional)

Soft Chocolate Icing

Set oven rack in lower-middle level of oven. Smear inside bottom and sides of an 8x1 1/2-inch round cake pan lightly with softened butter. Cut a sheet of waxed paper to fit bottom exactly, press it in place and butter it. Pour a little cake flour into pan, shake and turn in all directions to cover surface completely, turn pan upside down and bang out excess flour.

Using an electric mixer, cream butter with granulated sugar until fluffy. Beat in egg yolks, one at a time. Meanwhile, melt semisweet and bitter chocolates with rum. Stir warm chocolate into yolks mixture.

Beat egg whites into stiff, shiny peaks and stir a quarter of them into yolks. Rapidly and delicately fold in remaining whites, alternating with sprinklings of almonds and siftings of flour. Turn at once into the prepared pan. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven about 25 minutes, until cake has puffed to top of pan but center moves slightly when gently shaken. Let cool 15 minutes before unmolding. This type of chocolate cake is always best at room temperature. Serve with a dusting of powdered sugar or with the Soft Chocolate Icing. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

SOFT CHOCOLATE ICING: Melt 2 ounces semisweet chocolate with 1 ounce bitter OR unsweetened chocolate, a pinch of salt and 1 1/2 tablespoons rum or strong coffee. When smooth and glistening, beat in by spoonfuls 6 tablespoons softened unsalted butter. Stir over cold water until cooled to spreading consistency.

From ``Julia's Kitchen Wisdom: Essential Techniques and Recipes From A Lifetime of Cooking,'' by Julia Child.

JULIA'S LEMON-OIL DRESSING

1 tablespoon minced shallots OR green onions

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

About 1/4 teaspoon salt OR more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup excellent olive oil

Put shallots or green onions, mustard, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a small mixing bowl and whisk until well blended.

Pour in oil slowly, in droplets at first and then in a thin stream, whisking constantly until oil has been emulsified and dressing has thickened. Taste and adjust seasonings. Use immediately; if dressing separates while standing, whisk to blend. Use to dress salads. Makes about 2/3 cup.

From ``Julia and Jacques: Cooking at Home,'' by Julia Child and Jacques Pepin.

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Sales of cookbooks by Julia Child, who died at 91 on Aug. 13, are brisk. The Pasadena native made French cookery accessible to many.

Wendy Maeda/The Boston Globe