COOK'S CORNER BEYOND THE TURKEY AND STUFFING.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Recent events have given us pause - and no doubt Thanksgiving this year will be different and have extra-special meaning as we gather with loved ones and friends to remember and celebrate and give thanks for our freedom and blessings.

More than likely, many of us will want to eat comforting dishes that bring back fond memories of past holidays and our roots this year. While we'll all probably be eating variations on the turkey, stuffing, cranberry, potato (both sweet and white), vegetable and pumpkin themes, dishes likely have their own special family nuances or style. Individual touches and recipes will vary with families, cooks, regional preferences and such.

Besides a roasted turkey and stuffing, my buffet table will include some old as well as newer and updated renditions. Among the selections will be homemade cranberry sauce; a cherry, olive and pecan gelatin salad (don't cringe - it's really delicious and brings back memories of childhood turkey feasts) or a molded pineapple salad (also a years-old family favorite); a marinated vegetable salad; a super green bean casserole (a really good version of the standard given to me more than two decades ago); praline-topped sweet potatoes; and mashed potatoes, gravy and homemade yeast rolls. Among the dessert offerings will be a chocolate tart with raspberry sauce and my family's favorite pumpkin pie (stumbled on many years ago in a California Wine Institute cookbook) with plenty of freshly whipped cream.

Several of the recipes - all of which are easy to make - follow, in case you're in a quandary about what to serve and need a little help. Sometimes I skip the green bean casserole (which I recently updated to use frozen instead of those miserable canned green beans), opting to serve only the fresh vegetable salad. It all depends on the number of people I'm expecting.

Happy Thanksgiving!

CRANBERRY RELISH

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1/2 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons cider OR raspberry vinegar

1 (12-ounce) package fresh cranberries (3 cups), rinsed, any foreign pieces discarded and drained

Grated peel of 1 large orange

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup chopped dried apricots

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

In a large saucepan, combine brown sugar, orange juice and vinegar; heat to boiling. Add cranberries and cook over moderately high heat until skins pop, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in orange peel, raisins, apricots and walnuts.

Cool, then transfer to a covered container and refrigerate up to 1 week. Freeze for longer storage. Serve alongside turkey, chicken or pork. Makes 3 cups.

MOM'S BLACK CHERRY SALAD

1/3 cup lemon juice

1 (24- to 25-ounce) jar pitted Morello (available at Trader Joe's) OR other dark sweet cherries in light syrup

Water, if necessary

1 (3-ounce) package orange flavored gelatin

3/4 cup chopped pecans (do not substitute other nuts as flavor of finished salad will not be the same)

1 (10-ounce) jar pimiento-stuffed green olives, well-drained and sliced

Measure lemon juice into a 2-cup glass measuring cup. Add enough liquid drained from cherries to measure 1 3/4 cups total. Discard any remaining cherry liquid. If there is not enough cherry liquid to total 1 3/4 cups, add enough water to make 1 3/4 cups.

Heat liquid in measuring cup in microwave oven on high power until boiling, about 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 minutes. Whisk in gelatin, whisking until gelatin is completely dissolved. Chill until partially set.

When partially thickened and set, stir in well-drained cherries, pecans and olives, mixing well. Pour into a 6-cup gelatin mold or shallow pan; chill until firm. Unmold and serve on lettuce leaves garnished with sour cream. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

SOUR CREAM PINEAPPLE MOLD

1 (6-ounce) package raspberry-flavored gelatin

1 cup boiling water

1 pint dairy sour cream

1 (1-pound 4-ounce) can crushed pineapple

1/2 cup chopped walnuts OR pecans

Dissolve gelatin in boiling water; cool slightly. Add sour cream and whisk with a wire whisk until well dissolved and blended. Stir in undrained pineapple and nuts. Pour into 1 1/2-quart mold. Chill firm. Unmold and serve on red or butter lettuce leaves, garnished with additional sour cream, if desired. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

COLD VEGETABLE SALAD

1 (13.75-ounce) can quartered artichoke hearts, rinsed and well-drained

1 (14-ounce) can hearts of palm, drained and cut into 1/2-inch slices

2 (4 1/2-ounce) jars sliced mushrooms, drained (don't use fresh)

1 green bell pepper, cut into chunks

1 red bell pepper, cut into chunks

3 to 4 tomatoes, juices squeezed out and chopped

1 (2.2-ounce) can sliced ripe olives, rinsed and drained

1/2 hot house cucumber, chopped (optional)

2 green onions, chopped

2 tablespoons drained capers 

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 

3 tablespoons olive oil 

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil OR 2 to 3 teaspoons dried basil

1/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 

1/4 teaspoon garlic pepper

6 cups shredded salad greens

In a large bowl, combine all ingredients except salad greens. Toss to mix well. Serve immediately on salad greens or marinate vegetable mixture (without greens) in refrigerator several hours or overnight to blend flavors. Makes 6 or more servings.

NOTE: You can use bottled Italian dressing zipped up with a little Dijon mustard instead of oil and vinegar, if desired. You can also add frozen cut-up broccoli pieces that have been thawed and microwaved a few minutes, but add them only an hour or two before serving.

SUPER GREEN BEAN CASSEROLE

7 to 8 cups frozen whole green beans (haricot vert), thawed, drained and cut in half OR pieces (available at Trader Joe's OR Costco)

1 (10 3/4-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup

1/2 to 1 (4-ounce) can diced green chiles

1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

1/4 teaspoon garlic salt 

1/4 teaspoon garlic pepper

1 (3-ounce) can French fried onions (optional)

Mix well-drained beans with undiluted soup, chiles, cheese, garlic salt and pepper until thoroughly blended. Turn into a 12x7 1/2-inch baking or casserole dish.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 40 minutes. Spread onions over top last 10 minutes of baking time, if desired. Makes 8 servings.

YUMMY YAMS

4 large or 6 smaller yams (OR however many you desire using)

Butter

Light brown sugar

Ground cinnamon

Brandy OR Grand Marnier 

1 to 2 oranges, peel grated and then juice squeezed into yam mixture

Chopped pecans

Rinse yams off well with water and pierce all over with a sharp knife into middle of yams. Cook in microwave oven on high power 10 to 15 minutes or until soft when pierced with a fork. Check often during cooking. Cooking time will depend on number of yams and size.

Allow yams to cool 5 minutes so you can handle. Peel off skin and mash with a dinner fork (don't use mixer - it's not necessary). Mix in 2 to 4 tablespoons butter and 2 to 4 tablespoons brown sugar or to taste. Add a sprinkling of cinnamon and a generous splash of brandy or Grand Marnier, then stir in grated orange peel and juice squeezed from orange(s) into yam mixture. Mix well. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary. Turn into a casserole dish.

For topping, melt a few tablespoons butter, then stir in a little brown sugar and lots of chopped pecans. Sprinkle evenly over top. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven about 25 to 35 minutes or until heated through and topping is bubbly. Makes 6 to 8 servings, depending on size of yams used.

VINEYARD HOLIDAY PIE

2 cups canned 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated)

1 egg

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 cup sherry

1/2 cup hot water

1 (9-inch) unbaked pastry shell

Sweetened whipped cream

In a large bowl, combine pumpkin, condensed milk, egg, salt, spices, sherry and water. Beat with an electric mixer or whisk until well blended (mixture will be thin). Pour into unbaked pastry shell.

Bake in preheated 375-degree oven 50 to 55 minutes. Cool. Serve topped with sweetened whipped cream. Keep any leftover pie refrigerated. Makes 1 (9-inch) pie.

HELP FOR HOLIDAY COOKS

Egads! You're stuck - in a bind! You have a problem with the turkey or a question about safe preparation of holiday foods. Don't despair. Following are a variety of phone numbers (many toll-free) and Web sites that can help with holiday meal preparation and food-safety questions.

U.S. Department of Agriculture Meat and Poultry Hotline: [phone]. Food safety specialists answer calls about handling meat and poultry and cooking questions, 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. Monday-Friday year-round; 5 to 11 a.m. Thanksgiving Day. Web site: www.fsis.usda.gov.

Betty Crocker: [phone]. Consumer-service representatives can help with product questions, 5:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; Home economists will host an online chat 1 to 2 p.m. Dec. 13, with preregistration Nov. 30 on the Web site: www.BettyCrocker.com.

Butterball Turkey Talk-Line: [phone]. Home economists answer turkey-cooking questions 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekdays through Nov. 21; 4 a.m. to 4 p.m Thanksgiving Day; weekdays, 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. Nov. 23-Dec. 21. Callers can receive a free calendar with recipes. Recorded information 24 hours a day on turkey preparation. Hearing- and speech-impaired assistance (800) TDD-3848. Web site: www.butterball.com.

California Poultry Federation and Fresh Poultry Hotline: [phone]; 8 a.m. to noon and 1 to 5 p.m. Monday-Friday, year-round. General information via Web site: www.cpif.org.

Foster Farms Turkey Hotline: [phone]. Turkey/poultry experts help with questions 24 hours a day through Nov. 26. Helpline is available for Regular poultry information 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Friday year-round. Free brochures and recipes are offered. Web site: www.fosterfarms.com.

Home Chef Last-Minute Turkey Hotline: [phone]. Professional chefs answer last-minute questions 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Thanksgiving Day.

Dial-A-Chef Holiday Hotline: [phone]. Provided by Shady Brook Farms, a 24-hour, seven-days-a-week, automated culinary guidance and recipe service offered by famous chefs through Jan. 1. Web site: www.dialachef.com.

Land O'Lakes Holiday Bakeline: [phone]. Home economists answer baking questions, 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily through Dec. 24. Free recipe leaflet available to callers. Web site: www.landolakes.com.

Ocean Spray Helpline: [phone]. Help with cranberry recipes, 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. Monday-Friday year-round. Open Thanksgiving Day but closed other major holidays. Web site: www.oceanspray.com.

National Turkey Federation. Virtual chef recipes and cooking demonstrations, turkey tips and recipes. Web site: www.turkeyfed.org.

Reynolds Turkey Tips Line: [phone]. A year-round 24-hour hot line offering recorded information about defrosting and roasting turkeys. Free brochures and recipes available. Web site: www.reynoldskitchens.com.

Empire Kosher poultry customer hotline: [phone]. Help is offered by consumer-affairs representatives 5 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, year-round; 5 a.m. to noon Friday. Program offers recipes, newsletter, video, tips on defrosting and cooking poultry. Closed Jewish and secular holidays. Web site: www.empirekosher.com.

--WEB SITES:

www.turkeyhelp.com. Cook's Illustrated magazine's site features detailed guidance and recipes for preparing turkey and all the trimmings, including apple and pumpkin pies, with bright step-by-step visuals.

www.eatturkey.com or www.turkeyfed.org. The National Turkey Federation Web site has Thanksgiving recipes and cooking tips, among its year-round general information.

www.mccormick.com. Includes a holiday entertaining guide.

www.starchefs.com offers Thanksgiving and holiday recipes, with tips from professional chefs and cookbook writers, from turkey through desserts.

www.southernfood.about.com offers Thanksgiving recipes and turkey information and hints.

www.potatohelp.com. Advice includes a guide to perfect mashed potatoes.

FOOD SAFETY

Within two hours of removing the turkey from the oven, refrigerate or freeze the leftovers separately _ the turkey, stuffing and gravy. Cut the turkey into smaller pieces (leg, wing, half breast) or remove the meat from the bones to speed cooling in the fridge. Refrigerated turkey is best used within two to three days; stuffing and gravy within 1 to 2 days. Frozen cooked turkey should be used within two months while frozen stuffing and gravy should be used within a month.

To reduce the risks of food-borne illness, keep hot foods hot and cold foods cold. Don't leave perishable foods at room temperature for more than two hours on the big day. Two hours is considered the bacteria danger zone in which harmful bacteria can grow rapidly in temperatures between 40 degrees F and 140 degrees F.

Also wash your hands with soap and hot water before and after handling any food. To prevent cross contamination, use two cutting boards: one for meat, one for other foods. Wash utensils with soap and hot water after using. And use paper towels, not dishcloths, to clean up any spilled meat juices and to dry the turkey after rinsing.

CAPTION(S):

box

Box:

HELP FOR HOLIDAY COOKS (see text)