COOK'S CORNER A NOSTALGIC, FESTIVE MEAL FOR THIS SEASON.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Thanksgiving is a nostalgic, all-American family holiday steeped in tradition. More than likely, what you eat at Thanksgiving today had its roots in your childhood years. And no matter which state you hail from, you'll probably be eating favorite variations of the same foodstuffs, including turkey, stuffing, cranberries, sweet potatoes, white potatoes, green beans, and pumpkin or mincemeat in one form or another.

Each family has its own traditions, recipes and style. Individual touches vary from grandmother to grandmother, family to family and cook to cook.

I'm always asked what I serve for Thanksgiving. Much of the feast I prepare was inspired by what my mother and father served while I was growing up in Northern California.

My mother always cooked the turkey in a brown paper grocery bag. And that's how I still cook mine today. It's not only easy, but there's no basting required, and the bird comes out a glorious golden brown time after time.

The stuffing recipe included here is my adaptation of the way I remember my mother fixing it. She used pork sausage in the stuffing for delicious flavor, but for a change of pace I prefer using some of the specialty, gourmet sausages (such as some of the Jody Maroni brand with with sun-dried tomatoes and other seasonings) that are available today. One year I used Southwestern-flavored sausage with chiles and added some chopped red pepper to the stuffing. It was terrific, too. Nowadays, I prefer roasting the turkey unstuffed and baking the stuffing separately.

The cranberry relish is a recipe I picked up in my travels several years ago - and have tinkered with since. Prior to tasting this version, I always opened a can of cranberry sauce. But this variation is so tasty that it's become a must-make recipe.

I'm repeating my family's favorite pumpkin pie - one we stumbled on many years ago in a California Wine Institute cookbook - for those of you who've missed or misplaced it. The all-ready pie crusts by Pillsbury, available in the refrigerated deli section of supermarkets, work well for the crust. Plan to have plenty of freshly whipped cream on hand to serve with it. Enjoy! And happy Thanksgiving!

ROASTED TURKEY

Mom's Easy Traditional Stuffing (recipe follows)

1 (14- to 16-pound) turkey, thawed if frozen

2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil OR solid vegetable shortening

Prepare Mom's Easy Traditional Stuffing.

Remove giblets and neck from turkey and refrigerate for another use. Rinse turkey inside and out; pat dry.

Place turkey breast side up. Stuff body and neck cavities of turkey lightly with stuffing mixture, if desired (or bake separately). Truss turkey.

Place any remaining stuffing in a casserole dish, cover with foil and refrigerate until baking time.

Rub turkey all over with oil. Carefully slide turkey, breast side up, into a clean, large brown paper grocery bag. Fold over ends securely, drug store fashion, and staple closed in several places.

Place turkey on a rack in a large roasting pan, then place in oven.

Roast in preheated 325-degree oven 4 to 4 1/4 hours (if stuffed), 3 3/4 to 4 hours (unstuffed) or until done. To test for doneness, carefully cut bag open and insert a meat thermometer. Internal thigh temperature should be 180 degrees F, and when thigh is pierced, juices should run clear. Stuffing temperature should reach 165 degrees F in the center. Immediately remove stuffing from turkey. Let turkey stand 15 to 20 minutes for easier carving. Serve stuffing with turkey slices. Makes 10 or more servings.

NOTE: Bake remaining casserole dish of stuffing covered in preheated 325-degree oven 45 minutes or until hot in center. Remove cover and continue baking another 5 to 10 minutes for a drier stuffing.

MOM'S EASY TRADITIONAL STUFFING

1 pound bulk pork, turkey OR other gourmet-flavored sausage

2 cups chopped celery

1 to 1 1/2 cups chopped onions

2 bags (6 ounces EACH) seasoned stuffing mix (we use Mrs. Cubbison's)

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted

3/4 to 1 cup canned chicken broth

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large skillet, brown pork sausage, breaking into small pieces, along with celery and onions; cook until sausage is cooked through. Drain off any excess fat from pan.

Turn dry stuffing mix into a large bowl. Add sausage mixture, butter, chicken broth and parsley, tossing together until well mixed. Stuffing mixture should not be too wet. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Use to stuff a turkey and roast turkey as directed.

Or bake stuffing covered in a greased casserole dish in preheated 325-degree oven 45 minutes. For a crisper top, remove cover during last 5 to 10 minutes of baking time. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

CRANBERRY RELISH

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1/2 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons cider OR raspberry vinegar

1 (12-ounce) package fresh cranberries (3 cups), rinsed, any foreign pieces discarded and drained

Grated peel of 1 large orange

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup chopped dried apricots

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

In a large saucepan, combine brown sugar, orange juice and vinegar; heat to boiling. Add cranberries and cook over moderately high heat until skins pop, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in orange peel, raisins, apricots and walnuts.

Cool, then transfer to a covered container and refrigerate up to 1 week. Freeze for longer storage. Serve alongside turkey, chicken or pork. Makes 3 cups.

VINEYARD HOLIDAY PIE

2 cups canned 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated)

1 egg

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 cup sherry

1/2 cup hot water

1 (9-inch) unbaked pastry shell

Sweetened whipped cream

In a large bowl, combine pumpkin, condensed milk, egg, salt, spices, sherry and water. Beat with an electric mixer or whisk until well blended. Pour into unbaked pastry shell.

Bake in preheated 375-degree oven 50 to 55 minutes. Cool. Serve topped with sweetened whipped cream. Refrigerate any leftovers. Makes 1 (9-inch) pie.

PIMIENTO BROCCOLI

1 large bunch fresh broccoli

1/4 cup butter

1/3 cup chopped green onions

1/4 cup chopped pimiento OR chopped red pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt

Dash pepper

Steam or microcook broccoli until tender. Meanwhile, melt butter, add onion and remaining ingredients. Heat through. At serving time pour sauce over broccoli. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

NOTE: Recipe can be doubled or tripled for a crowd.

CAPTION(S):

box

Box: Turkey is easy carve