COMFORT FOOD WITH FLAIR AT BLAIR'S.Byline: Eric Noland Staff Writer Comfort food is all well and good in a world aswarm a·swarm adj. Filled or overrun, as with moving objects or beings; teeming: The playground was aswarm with children. with nostalgic baby boomers See generation X. , but Blair's Restaurant raises the bar with ingredients Mom never had access to, time she could ill afford to spare, and creativity that would have resulted in you being late for your piano lesson. The restaurant, in L.A.'s artsy art·sy adj. art·si·er, art·si·est Informal Arty. Silver Lake neighborhood, can start you off with a shrimp cocktail adorned with two dill-deviled eggs ($14), the lightly seasoned shrimp cooked just enough. For a more conventional salad course, roasted beets are arranged with a little golf ball of fried goat cheese and slices of avocado around fresh greens ($8). Braised braise tr.v. braised, brais·ing, brais·es To cook (meat or vegetables) by browning in fat, then simmering in a small quantity of liquid in a covered container. Colorado short ribs ($27) were obviously cooked gently at low heat for hours.Falling-off-the-bone tender, served on a bed of pleasantly grainy grain·y adj. grain·i·er, grain·i·est 1. Made of or resembling grain; granular. 2. Resembling the grain of wood. 3. Having a granular appearance due to the clumping of particles in the emulsion. polenta po·len·ta n. A thick mush made of cornmeal boiled in water or stock. [Italian, from Latin, crushed grain, barley meal.] Noun 1. and crowned with mushrooms, it's a fabulous main course. A pasta dish, featuring Italian sausage made on site, is nestled in linguine with Jerusalem artichokes and roasted corn, under a sprinkling of Parmesan that melts into a nice little crust ($18). There are also fresh fish, steak and vegetarian entrees. We shared a unique ice-cream sandwich for dessert: a delicate square of pistachio pistachio (pĭstăsh`ēō, pĭstä`shēō), tree or shrub (of the genus Pistacia) of the family Anacardiaceae (sumac family). The species that yields the pistachio nut of commerce is P. filo FILO - stack , a scoop of house-made blackberry sorbet, another layer of filo and a dollop of creamy chocolate sorbet, with a spill of chocolate sauce alongside ($8). This culinary cleverness spills from the imagination of chef-owner Marshall Blair, who was chef de cuisine for two years under Michael Cimarusti at the acclaimed Water Grill downtown. Nothing about the unassuming exterior hints at what's within: candles, modern art on the walls, arched doorways, walls painted brick-red and a parquet floor in the main dining room. A friendly, neighborhood ambience is combined with solid service -- and that inventive food. BLAIR'S RESTAURANT Rating: Two and one half stars Details: 2903 Rowena Ave. (Silver Lake neighborhood). Open daily from 7 a.m. until late in the evening. Breakfast from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m., lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. (to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday). Info: (323) 660-1882; www.blairsrestaurant.com. Cost: Starters (appetizers, soups, salads) $7 to $14, main courses (including pasta dishes) $17 to $27, desserts $7 to $9. Noteworthy: Blair's is convenient to Dodger Stadium if you're looking for Looking for In the context of general equities, this describing a buy interest in which a dealer is asked to offer stock, often involving a capital commitment. Antithesis of in touch with. something a little more interesting than a hot dog for an early dinner. Street parking. Extensive selection of bottled beers from Belgium, Germany and Britain. By-the-glass wine prices ($11 to $14) are a bit steep. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Blair's, located in L.A.'s artsy Silver Lake neighborhood, serves creatively prepared dishes in a stylish setting. Eric Noland/Staff Photographer |
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