COLUMNIST'S BELOVED CITY RETURNS AFFECTION.

Byline: Elizabeth Hayes Knight-Ridder Tribune News Wire

He was showered with the love of Baghdad by the Bay as throngs turned out Friday for Herb Caen Day and the dedication of Herb Caen Way.

After arriving at the Ferry Building at noon via motorcade, Caen strolled to the stage as onlookers pressed against the barricades.

``Caenfetti'' - shredded pieces of his columns - rained down on the guest of honor, a daily columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle since 1938 and a cultural icon.

Mayor Willie Brown - his Williness in Caen parlance - organized the event and introduced celebrities who performed or spoke in Caen's honor, including Robin Williams, Don Johnson, Joel Grey and Huey Lewis.

``He has brought such joy to us,'' Williams told the crowd of about 20,000. Then he gave Caen a gold-plated baggage cart in reference to one of his columns.

Charlotte Mailliard Swig, city chief of protocol, produced the celebration in the city that loves parties from the Bay to Breakers festival to the gay pride parade, from the Halloween bash in the Castro to the biannual Black and White Ball.

The 49ers cheerleaders tap-danced for Caen. Rollerbladers and bike messengers rode by. Bands played - including the Concord Blue Devils, Pat Yankee and her jazz band, Johnny Coppola and Friends, and the Rich Martini Big Band.

The Glide Memorial Ensemble sang ``San Francisco'' while the Beach Blanket Babylon cast swayed to the music. Vintage airplanes zoomed overhead. Blue and green balloons and pigeons filled the skies.

Caen said he was overwhelmed.

``I've been crying and laughing. They'll never top this,'' Caen told the crowd. But he was not at a loss for a few quips.

Besides the current mayor, four former city chief executives sat on the stage, prompting Caen to crack, ``Obviously, the grand jury hasn't been doing its job.''

Caen said he researched other writers who had a parade in their honor and found only one: Victor Hugo, author of ``Les Miserables.''

``I write miserably. Where's the drummer to go kaboom?'' Caen joked.

Of course, Caen paid homage to the city he has called home for the past 60 years.

``Well, God, I love this town,'' he said, eliciting a roar of approval. ``Thank you for making me feel like the luckiest guy in the world.''

Brown lauded Caen as a ``special and extraordinary human being'' who has made San Francisco the envy of the world. He bequeathed a black fedora to Caen. Noted Brown, the two are ``the only two cats in San Francisco to wear hats.''

Eddie DeBartolo, 49ers owner, gave Caen a new football helmet. Baseball legend Willie Mays provided some kind words and humor. And Walter Cronkite presented his old friend with the plaque and the street sign to christen Herb Caen Way, a 3.2-mile walkway along the Embarcadero from China Basin to Fisherman's Wharf.

The day capped a memorable year for Caen. He celebrated his 80th birthday April 3, won a Pulitzer Prize on April 9 for his ``extraordinary and continuing contribution as a voice and conscience of his city'' and married Ann Moller on April 20.

On a sad note, Caen disclosed to readers last month that he is undergoing treatment for inoperable lung cancer.

``I actually had tears streaming down my face when the balloons and pigeons went up,'' Mike Basten of San Francisco said afterward. ``The idea of having something like this before somebody dies is so wonderful.''

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Photo

Photo: Pulitzer Prize-winning columnist Herb Caen waves tothe San Francisco crowds at a parade for him.

Associated Press