COLORS OF THE RAINBOW GORGEOUS, FLAVORFUL HEIRLOOM TOMATOES ARE THE ESSENCE OF SUMMER.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Heirlooms are the stars of the tomato world these days.

Costumed in red, yellow and pink blotches, dancing in green zebra strips, decked out in deep, corrugated furls of brick red, with dusky rose-blushed black, in tangerine orange, light white or bright sunlight yellow, these tomatoes are making a splash, notes Mimi Luebberman in ``The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook'' (Chronicle Books; $16.95). The book was conceived in conjunction with Kendall-Jackson winery to pay homage to its Heirloom Tomato Festival (now in its 10th year), which will be held Sept. 9 at the winery in Santa Rosa.

No longer just the darlings of restaurant chefs, these delicious, brilliantly colored tomatoes in a wide array of oddball shapes can be found at farmers or specialty markets, select supermarkets and in home gardens. In fact, we just recently spotted packages of heirlooms in Trader Joe's, an indication of their mainstream status.

Whether hybrids or heirlooms, tomatoes, which in botanical terms are fruits, are the gifts and essence of summer. There's nothing quite like a fabulous fresh tomato straight from the garden, a farmers market or a farm stand. Slice up a variety of tomatoes in myriad colors and drizzle with the best olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt or a simple vinaigrette -- and you're in for some truly fabulous eating.

So what is an heirloom tomato?

``Most seed catalogs define heirlooms as varieties documented to be 50 years old, while others are more liberal with their standards,'' says Luebbermann, adding, ``Everyone agrees that they were bred for flavor and that they taste rich and sweet with a fine acid balance.

``When buying heirlooms, don't judge the tomato by its cover (skin). Beauty is more than skin deep with heirlooms. An heirloom variety like the pineapple is striped with green, pink, darker rosy color and does not have some dreaded disease. It is going to be absolutely delicious.''

Apply the avocado test: Squeeze it gently; if it yields to slight pressure, it is ripe.

Luebbermann, who grows a dozen varieties of heirlooms for personal use on her small farm in Petaluma (tomatoes are one of the easiest summer plants to grow), favors cherry tomatoes, Black Plum, Green Zebra, Cherokee Purple, Black From Tula, Pineapple, Big Stripey, Dona, Stupice, Yellow Plum and Sungold from the hundreds of varieties available. But everyone's list will be different, depending on climate and growing location.

Many of them are described in the cookbook (a starter list, as Kendall-Jackson garden director Patricia Rossi, calls it) along with growing and cultivating tips.

More than 175 heirloom varieties (along with a dozen basils, herbs and vegetables) are grown on two acres in the Culinary Gardens at the Kendall-Jackson winery and can be sampled at the festival (seeds are also available). In the back of the cookbook, you'll find a current list of what is grown -- organized by color -- which we found fascinating.

Local and Bay Area chefs and restaurants will also be serving up an array of heirloom creations -- and many of those from prior festivals can be found among the 50 recipes in the book, with attributions to the chefs. Among them are Southwestern Heirloom Tomato Salad, Savory Heirloom Tomato Bread Pudding, Tomato Bisque and Heirloom Tomato Sorbet. Of course, wines will be paired with various foods -- and the book includes general guidelines. ``Simply match the color of the wines to the color of the tomatoes.''

``The festival is so much fun. It's the be-all and end-all for the tomato lover,'' says Luebbermann, author of some 20 gardening and cookbooks, including ``Terrific Tomatoes.''

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

[e-mail]

HEIRLOOM TOMATO BLOODY MARY SHRIMP SALSA

2 large heirloom tomatoes, finely diced

12 ounces bay (cocktail) shrimp

1 small red onion, finely diced

1 pasilla chile, seeded and finely diced

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons sliced green onions

1/2 cup Bloody Mary mix

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Fresh tortilla chips for serving

In a medium bowl, combine tomatoes, shrimp, onion, chile, cilantro, green onions, Bloody Mary mix and lemon and lime juices; toss well with a spoon. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with tortilla chips.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

From ``The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook,'' by Mimi Luebbermann; recipe shared by chef Michael Dunn, Yankee Pier restaurant, Larkspur.

TOMATO SAUCE

1 large yellow onion, peeled

4 pounds tomatoes, cored, halved and seeded

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

2 cloves garlic, peeled and split in half

2 strips lemon zest (yellow part of the rind)

2 teaspoons honey

Salt and black pepper to taste

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped

Dice onions and tomatoes. Heat oil in a 6-quart nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and saute until translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add tomatoes, thyme and garlic. Cook 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add lemon zest and honey. Simmer 20 minutes longer, stirring occasionally and turning heat down if needed to keep mixture from sticking.

Transfer to a food processor or blender, working in batches. Puree until smooth.

Return to pot and add salt and pepper. Stir in basil and simmer 15 minutes longer.

Makes 4 cups

Adapted from ``The Farmer's Market Cookbook,'' by Richard Ruben.

SOUTHWESTERN HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

1 large heirloom tomato, seeded and diced

2 1/2 cups corn kernels (about 4 large ears)

2 cups cooked black beans OR 1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed and well-drained

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

In a dry, medium nonreactive saute pan over high heat, toast cumin seeds, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Let cool and grind in a spice grinder or in a mortar.

In same pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic and saute 1 minute. Add tomato and corn kernels and saute another minute. Add black beans and ground cumin and season with salt and pepper. Serve warm, or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days and serve chilled.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

From ``The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook,'' by Mimi Luebbermann; recipe shared by chef Fred Langley, Langley's on the Green, Windsor.

TOMATO PIE

Pastry for 1 (9-inch) deep-dish pie

4 tomatoes, peeled, cored and sliced

8 to 10 fresh basil leaves, chopped

1/3 cup chopped green onion

Salt and pepper to taste

1 cup grated part-skim mozzarella

1 cup grated Cheddar cheese

1 cup mayonnaise

Line deep pie dish with pastry and bake according to package directions.

Remove from oven and cool. Arrange tomato slices in crust, overlapping. Add basil and onion, then sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.

Mix cheeses and mayonnaise. Spread over tomatoes. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven 30 minutes, or until lightly browned. Cool about 10 minutes before slicing.

Makes 6 servings

From ``The Lady & Sons Savannah Country Cookbook,'' by Paula Deen.

FIVE-MINUTE BRANDYWINE TOMATO SAUCE

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 1/2 pounds very ripe Brandywine tomatoes, quartered

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons red pepper flakes (use less for less spiciness)

1 teaspoon sugar

Sea salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

Freshly ground pepper to taste

In a large nonreactive pot, heat olive oil over high heat. Add tomatoes and stir until heated through and well coated with oil, 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic, red pepper flakes, sugar and pinch sea salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in basil and remove from heat. Let cool slightly. In a food mill, blender, or food processor, puree tomato mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Use on pasta, grilled meats, fish or vegetables. Store in refrigerator in a sealed plastic container up to 1 week or freeze in a sealed plastic bag or plastic container up to 2 months.

Makes 4 cups

From ``The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook,'' by Mimi Luebbermann; recipe shared by chef John Besh, Restaurant August, Santa Barbara.

BLT SALAD

Leaves from 1 head butter lettuce

2 large heirloom tomatoes, sliced

1 avocado, peeled, pitted and diced

1 cup Buttermilk Dressing

8 slices bacon, cooked until crisp, then crumbled

Divide butter lettuce leaves among 4 salad plates. Top with tomato slices, sprinkle with avocado and drizzle each plate with 1/4 cup Buttermilk Dressing. Top each salad with crumbled bacon.

Makes 4 servings

BUTTERMILK DRESSING: In a blender or food processor, blend 1/4 cup red wine vinegar, 1 egg yolk and 1 small shallot, coarsely chopped. With machine running gradually add 1 cup virgin olive oil to emulsify. Add 1 cup buttermilk, 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley and 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme and pulse to combine. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate leftover dressing up to 3 days. Makes 2 cups.

From ``The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook,'' by Mimi Luebbermann; recipe shared by chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart, Zazu restaurant, Santa Rosa.

PANZANELLA

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 to 3 pounds tomatoes, seeded and chopped, with juices reserved

1/2 to 3/4 pound country-style OR rustic bread, cut in 1-inch-thick slices

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped

1/3 cup capers, rinsed and drained (optional)

1/2 to 3/4 cup olive oil

1/2 to 3/4 cup fresh basil, shredded OR chopped in strips

Combine garlic and vinegar in a small bowl. Season with a little salt and pepper and set aside.

Place tomatoes and their juices in a large salad bowl.

Toast or grill bread slices. Cool slightly, then tear or cut into bite-sized pieces. Add bread to tomatoes and fold together with a rubber spatula. Add cucumber and capers, if using.

Whisk 1/2 cup olive oil into vinegar mixture to form a vinaigrette. Drizzle vinaigrette over salad and toss to coat all ingredients. Add salt and pepper if needed and scatter basil over top. If you make it in advance, the flavors will intensify but the bread also may soak up all the dressing. Add additional 1/4 cup olive oil if needed.

Makes 6 servings

From ``The San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market Cookbook,'' by Christopher Hirscheimer and Peggy Knickerbocker.

BUYING AND STORING

Use your nose. A ripe tomato should be fragrant, with a classic tomato perfume. Never refrigerate tomatoes. Leave at room temperature (out of sunlight) to ripen (they should yield to gentle pressure like an avocado when ripe) and until you're ready to use them.

Below 50 to 55 degrees F, a compound that gives tomatoes flavor disappears. If you refrigerate a tomato and then bring it to room temperature, it will never get back the same flavor.

Buy only enough tomatoes to eat in two or three days. Be sure to use within a week of being picked.

Should you store tomatoes stem up or down? Stem up, says field compliance officer Skip Jonas of the Florida Tomato Committee, the trade group for the Florida tomato industry.

``It's general knowledge that the shoulders (the part around the stem) are the tenderest part of the tomato. That's why you store them stem-up.''

Steven Sargent, a tomato expert at the University of Florida, concurs, for two reasons: If you store a tomato upside down, it closes the stem down, speeding the decay and fungal growth that makes tomatoes rot. And tomatoes stored stem-down get ``flattened shoulders,'' which causes structural breakdown and speeds decaying of the seeds.

PEELING

There are several ways to peel a tomato:

Cut an X at the blossom end (opposite the stem). Dip in boiling water for 10 to 30 seconds, depending on ripeness, then into ice water. The skin will pull off easily.

Spear a tomato with a fork and hold it over the flame of a gas burner, turning often until the skin is blistered.

Pierce the top of the tomato with a fork, then microwave on high for 15 seconds. Let stand 2 minutes and pull the skin off.

Use a serrated-edge peeler.

SEEDING

Tomato seeds can be bitter in cooked sauces. To remove, core the tomato if needed, then cut in half horizontally (across the ``equator'').

Place a sieve over a bowl. Squeeze the tomato half to force out the seeds or remove them with a spoon. For a plum tomato, you may need to stick your finger into the pockets to get out the seeds.

Catch the seeds in the sieve and save the juice that collects in the bowl for soups and sauces. It's filled with flavor and nutrients -- tomatoes are high in vitamins C and A.

SLICING

To get better shapes and lose less juice, change how you slice tomatoes. Instead of slicing horizontally or crosswise, turn them sideways and cut vertically, from the stem to the blossom end. A good serrated knife is the best tool for slicing tomatoes.

ROASTING

When making tomato sauce, Mimi Luebbermann likes to roast tomatoes first. Simply cut tomatoes in half, place cut side up on a greased baking sheet, sprinkle top with salt and pepper. Roast in a preheated 350-degree until slightly browned and bubbly, then sieve to remove skin and seeds.

FREEZING

Freezing tomatoes is easy. Just pop them whole into a plastic freezer bag and freeze. When ready to use, dip whole into boiling water, and the skins will slip off instantly. Or make lots of sauce with extra tomatoes and freeze.

-- Staff and wire services

CAPTION(S):

5 photos, 6 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Heirlooms

COLOR THESE SUMMER GEMS DELECTABLE

Photo by Robert Holmes from ``The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook,'' Chronicle Books

(2 -- color) no caption (sliced tomatoes)

(3 -- color) no caption (tomato)

Photos by Dan Mills from ``The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook,'' Chronicle Books

(4 -- color) HEIRLOOM TOMATO BLOODY MARY SHRIMP SALSA

(5 -- color) BLT SALAD

Box:

(1) BUYING (see text)

(2) PEELING (see text)

(3) SEEDING (see text)

(4) SLICING (see text)

(5) ROASTING (see text)

(6) FREEZING (see text)