COLOMBIA.

NO DISCUSSION OF TRAVEL TO Colombia can begin, by unfortunate necessity, without an eye to safety.

Colombia remains one of the world's most dangerous countries, tormented as it is by political violence, drug trafficking, kidnapping and a murder rate eight times that of the United States. Of special concern to U.S. citizens is a rise in kidnapping, with targets in all age groups and occupations. In 1999, more than a dozen U.S. citizens were kidnapped, twice as many as in the previous year.

The U.S. Department of State's latest travel warning, issued in January 2000, urges U.S. citizens to stay away from Colombia, citing narcotraffickers, guerrillas, paramilitary groups and other criminal elements for recent threats, kidnappings, domestic airline hijackings and murders. All U.S. citizens should be extra-careful because they are considered "legitimate military targets" by the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) and the National Liberation Army (ELN). While guerrilla action and narcotics trafficking are of utmost concern, common criminals commit 75% of the murders, the State Department says.

Avoid public transportation. When you need to take a taxi, have your hotel concierge make the arrangements, and do not get into any taxi that already has one or more passengers. Guard your hand luggage and travel documents, particularly at El Dorado Airport in Bogota and in hotel areas. Criminals sometimes use the disorienting drug scopolamine in drinks, cigarettes, gum and even on powder-laced paper. Insiders say that it's best to ask the Colombian company or government agency with whom you are doing business to hire bodyguard/security services and set up other details for your protection.

Avoid walking after nightfall. Don't wear flashy jewelry or expensive accessories. Take only the money and documents you need. Don't change currency without consulting someone trustworthy; your hotel concierge, for example, or the business contacts you are meeting. A common scam is an approach by an alleged "policeman" who says he wants to "check" the victim for counterfeit U.S. dollars. The "policeman" takes money, hands over a receipt and vanishes.

Use hotel cars or taxis from reputable fleets. Don't leave your luggage or belongings unattended.

Bogota's altitude ranges between 2,000 and 2,650 meters (6,560 and 8,692 feet). Altitude sickness can occur, but only for the first day or two. Just take it easy. Bring clothing suitable for a cool climate. The temperature can change suddenly.

Doing business in Bogota could not be more different from the doing business in United States or Europe. While Bogotanos are formal in their dress and language, punctuality is rare. A 9 o'clock appointment can easily start at 10. A quick trip to the bank to change traveler'schecks can become a 1.5-hour ordeal. Business hours are typically from 9a.m. to 5p.m. Banks are open from 9 a.m. to 3p.m. An exception: On the last working day of each month, all banks close at midday.

Public telephones are found throughout the city and operate with local currency. Patience is required; many phones do not work. Fax and photocopy services are available in most stationery shops. A growing number Internet Cafes are popping up around the city, especially in the north and around universities.

Traffic jams plague the capital. Traveling from the north to the center can become a frustrating one-hour journey.

But all is not doom and gloom. Although plagued with problems, Bogota is witnessing a slow, but certain renewal. Local authorities have been designing and implementing ambitious development plans that include building and expanding the city infrastructure. Streets are being repaired, thousands of trees are being planted, and hundreds of public parks are being built or refurbished; the airport got a second landing strip, and some areas of downtown are going through extensive plans of redesign.

Stirred by deregulation, public and private companies are expanding the telecommunications infrastructure, installing fiber optic rings and wireless systems. Natural gas pipelines are being mounted throughout the city, a new public transportation system called Transmilenio is about to start operation, and plans for building massive low-income family apartment units are being prepared. An industrial area to the north of Bogota is attracting both local and foreign companies. The economic recession that started in 1999 hit Bogota, but not as hard as other cities in the country.

Two other cities, Cali and Medellin, draw business visitors from abroad. Santiago de Cali, also known as "La Sultana del Valle" or "The Land of the Beautiful Girls" is the second-largest city in Colombia and the world capital of salsa music. At the same time, Call has been singled out as a place to avoid because of security concerns.

Major industries are production of sugar, foodstuffs and paper. Most multinationals, including Gillette, Warner Lambert, Baxter and Colgate-Palmolive, are in northeastern Call.

You'll find shopping and entertainment along Calle 5 in the south and in the area of Avenida Sexta in the north. But this is still Colombia. Leave expensive jewelry home, and don't carry too much cash.

If you have time, visit some places of historic interest such as lglesia de San Francisco, Museo Convento de La Merced, Colina de San Antonio, Paseo Bolivar or Las Tres Cruces.

Plan your schedule carefully. Business hours are 8 a.m. to noon and 2 to 6 p.m. Virtually everything shuts down at lunchtime.

Medellin is often associated in foreigners minds with violence -- and it's certainly seen a lot of it. But there's more to this city encircled by mountains than drug crime.

Medellin is distinguished as a thriving industrial center, particularly for textiles and foodstuffs. Each year, it hosts an international poetry festival; the Antioquia Museum showcases a renowned collection of the works of Fernando Botero. It's the only city in Colombia with a subway And though Medellin shares the urban chaos of many Latin American cities, its primary business center, the wooded area of El Poblado, is home to elegant hotels and restaurants.