COFFEE CRAVINGS VERSATILE BEAN CAN TAKE YOU FAR BEYOND THAT MORNING CUP.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

You can't walk down a city street without encountering a coffee bar.

Starbucks alone has more than 3,000 worldwide locations, including 670 outlets in California (more than any other state), according to Chris Gimbl, a spokesman for Starbucks Coffee Co. of Seattle. It serves 10 million customers each week, and approximately 69 percent of the company's total $1.7 billion in sales last year was in beverages.

Per capita consumption of coffee was 1.7 cups daily last year, up from 1.4 cups in 1998, but well below the all-time peak per capita consumption of 3.12 cups per person per day in the '60s. Still, 54 percent of American adults over 18 - or 110 million consumers - identify themselves as daily coffee drinkers.

Although U.S. coffee consumption is flat, people are interested in drinking better, higher-quality coffee these days and are asking for more variety and quality products in grocery stores, restaurants and coffee stores, which is driving up the overall market value, notes Eric Chastain, coffee education specialist, Starbucks Coffee Co., Seattle.

``There is room for growth as only 9 percent of the population currently drinks gourmet coffee on a daily basis,'' says Gary Goldstein, spokesman for the National Coffee Association.

There are plenty of varieties from which to choose. Coffees can range from rich to mild in flavor, from low to high acidity, from smooth to earthy or exotic, from floral to spicy to winy to chocolaty, and from light to medium to full-bodied and much more - depending on growing conditions, roasting and preparation methods.

``The most popular varietal we sell is Colombian,'' says Jim Stewart, founder and chairman of Seattle's Best Coffee, which has 80 stores. But consumers can generally figure that beans from Kenya are winy with syrup acidity while those from Costa Rica have smoky flavor and almost perfect balance and those from Sumatra are usually heavy-bodied and earthy with dry cocoa flavor, Stewart says. Experiment to find out what suits your palate, considering flavor, acidity, body and aroma.

``Coffees are like friends,'' continues Stewart. You enjoy some more than others and at various times. Stewart travels to Central and South American countries including Guatemala, Costa Rice, Colombia, Peru, El Salvador and Brazil exploring and looking for beans to be used in blends or sold as varietal (single-origin) coffees.

``The higher a coffee is grown, the more elegant the flavor and the more acidity it has. You have to roast it darker and longer to balance out the flavor,'' says Starbucks' Chastain.

``There is a perfect cup of coffee for everybody in the world - and for everyone it is different,'' says Chastain. Starbucks sells 30 different coffees - either blends (two or more single-origin coffees are blended together) or single-origin coffees (from a specific country or region like Kenya, Guatemala-Antigua or perhaps even a farm like Brazil Eponema Bourbon).

``A blend is meant to be very even, mouth-filling and well-rounded (how it reacts in the mouth), whereas single-origin coffee tastes sort of pointed (where it hits the tongue).''

When drinking coffee, be aware that as the temperature changes, so does the coffee flavor, notes Stewart.

``Coffee comes to life as it cools. The last three sips are the best (provided that you drink your brewed coffee within 15 minutes of serving), so don't let anyone refill your cup until you're finished.''

Coffee is the common man's gold, and like gold, it brings to every man the feeling of luxury and nobility.

- Abd-al-Kadir, ``In Praise of Coffee,'' 1587

COFFEE CUP TRIANGLES

BROWNIE BOTTOM:

4 large eggs

2 tablespoons instant coffee

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter OR margarine

4 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate

2 cups granulated sugar 

1 cup all-purpose flour

CHEESECAKE TOPPING:

3 large eggs

2 tablespoons instant coffee

3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup dairy sour cream

Piped Chocolate Coffee Cup Shapes (optional)

To prepare Brownie Bottom, line a 13x9-inch baking pan with foil; lightly butter foil. Stir eggs and instant coffee together in a small bowl until well blended; set aside. Microwave butter and chocolate in a large microwavable bowl on high power 1 1/2 to 2 minutes or until butter has melted. Stir until chocolate is completely melted. Stir sugar into chocolate mixture until well blended. Mix in egg mixture. Stir in flour until well blended. Spread batter in prepared pan.

To prepare Cheesecake Topping, stir eggs and instant coffee together in a small bowl until well blended; set aside. Beat cream cheese, sugar and vanilla in a large bowl with an electric mixer set on high speed until well blended. Add egg mixture and mix on low speed until blended. Beat in sour cream. Spoon mixture evenly over brownie bottom.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 40 to 45 minutes or until center is almost set. Run a knife or a metal spatula around the edges of pan to loosen brownies from sides. Cool completely on wire rack.

Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight. Cut into triangles or squares. Garnish with Piped Chocolate Coffee Cup Shapes, if desired. Store leftover triangles in refrigerator. Makes 24 servings.

PIPED CHOCOLATE COFFEE CUP SHAPES: Place 1 (1-ounce) square semisweet OR bittersweet chocolate in a freezer-weight zipper-style plastic bag. Close bag tightly. Microwave on high power about 1 minute or until chocolate is melted. Tightly fold down top of bag and snip off a tiny piece of one corner (about 1/8-inch). Line a baking sheet with wax paper. Draw a coffee cup shape design on wax paper. Drizzle chocolate to trace shape or drizzle into free-form design. Refrigerate chocolate shape about 30 minutes or until firm. Carefully remove shapes from wax paper. Place on dessert or store in tightly covered container in freezer until ready to use.

From ``Maxwell House Coffee Drinks & Desserts Cookbook,'' edited by Barbara Albright, Clarkson Potter.

CAPPUCCINO SWIRL CHEESECAKE

(8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

2 large eggs

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons instant coffee OR 1 1/2 tablespoons instant espresso powder

1 prepared chocolate crumb crust (6 ounces OR 9 inches)

Chocolate sauce for drizzling on dessert plates (optional)

Beat cream cheese, sugar and vanilla in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed until well blended. Add eggs and mix until blended. Stir cinnamon into 1 cup batter in small bowl. Stir instant coffee into remaining batter, blending well. Pour coffee mixture into crust. Spoon cinnamon batter over coffee batter. Swirl with a knife to marbleize.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 35 minutes or until center is almost set. Cool completely on a wire rack.

Refrigerate at least 3 hours or overnight. Cut into slices. Drizzle each plate with chocolate sauce, if desired. Store any leftover cheesecake in refrigerator. Makes 8 servings.

From ``Maxwell House Coffee Drinks & Desserts Cookbook,'' edited by Barbara Albright, Clarkson Potter.

QUICK BOSTON BAKED BEANS 

1/4 pound salt pork

1 medium onion, peeled and chopped

2 (1-pound) cans Boston-style baked beans

1/2 cup molasses 

1/2 cup brewed coffee

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 teaspoon pepper

Rinse loose salt from salt pork under cold running water. Blot dry with paper towel. Cut into 1/4-inch dice. Place in large skillet over low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until crisp. Remove from skillet and set aside. Saute chopped onion in drippings over medium heat until soft.

Place beans in deep casserole or bean pot. Stir in sauteed onion and crisp pork. In a small bowl, combine molasses, coffee, mustard and pepper. Pour over beans. Bake uncovered in preheated 350-degree oven 45 minutes to 1 hour until liquid is nearly absorbed and top is crisp. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From ``Coffee Cookery,'' by Ceil Dyer, H.P. Books.

THE PERFECT CUPPA JOE

WATER: Start with cold, fresh, preferably filtered or bottled water, heated to just off the boil (195 to 205 degrees F) to extract coffee's full range of flavor.

GRIND: The right grind depends on how long the coffee and water will be in contact, from very coarse for a coffee press, to very fine for an espresso machine. Different brewing methods require different grinds.

PROPORTION: Generally use two tablespoons (some experts recommend only one tablespoon) of ground coffee for each six ounces of water. If the coffee is too strong, add hot water after brewing.

SERVING: Never reheat coffee or let it sit on a warmer for more than 20 minutes.

Buying, storing, grinding coffee

Although the experts sometimes disagree, here's what they have to say on buying, storing and grinding coffee.

--For the freshest coffee experience possible, use whole beans and grind them yourself at home just before brewing.

--Ground coffee gets stale faster than whole beans.

--Buy only enough fresh-roasted beans or ground coffee to last a week or two.

--Once coffee is opened, store in a dark, airtight container at room temperature. ``Don't refrigerate open bags as the coffee will absorb aromas just like baking soda,'' says one expert. However, the folks at Peet's Coffee & Tea recommend storing coffee in a small airtight container in the fridge or freezer. Keep in mind roasted coffee beans are perishable just like fruits or vegetables.

--If you must keep beans for more than two weeks, freeze them up to three months. But be aware, they'll pick up moisture if you repeatedly take them in and out of the freezer.

--Grind whole beans to your brewing and pot specifications. A medium grind works well for electric drip brewers and Melittas or manual drips. The grind should be fine enough so that the water doesn't run through too fast - but not so fine that it plugs up the filter.

--As far as coffee pots go, most experts favor the coffee press or press pot - and tout it as the ultimate brewing machine. It yields a thicker-textured coffee than other pots. - Natalie Haughton

Talk the talk

CAFE AMARETTO:Latte with almond syrup.

CAFE AU LAIT: French style, with coffee and boiled milk poured simultaneously into a cup.

CAFE AMERICANO: A shot of espresso combined with steaming hot water. Also available iced.

CAFE CON LECHE: 1 1/2-ounce espresso with enough steamed milk to fill an 8-ounce cup.

CAFE CON PANNA: Demitasse of espresso topped with a dollop of whipped cream.

CAFE CREME: 1 1/2 ounce of espresso with an ounce of heavy cream.

CAFE LATTE OR LATTE: Steamed milk laced with a shot of espresso and topped with foamed milk. The most popular espresso drink. Also available iced.

CAFE MOCHA: A latte with chocolate or mocha syrup, topped with whipped cream.

CAPPUCCINO: A shot of espresso blended with steamed milk, capped by foamed milk. Has less milk than a latte.

ESPRESSO: Coffee prepared in a special machine from finely ground coffee beans through which steam under high pressure is forced. Enjoy on its own or in other drinks.

GRANITA: Latte with frozen milk.

MOCHACCINO: A cappuccino with chocolate.

SHOT: Equivalent to a single espresso. A double would be be an espresso made from two shots, approximately 1 1/2 to 2 ounces. A triple is three shots.

SHOT IN THE DARK: A regular coffee with a shot of espresso in it.

UNLEADED: Decaf.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos, 3 boxes

Photo: (1 -- cover --color) Hello, Joe

Coffee know-how for devoted drinkers and creative cooks

Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer

(2 -- color) Whip up Coffee Cup Triangles, a rich, two-layer dessert, and serve with a mug of your favorite steaming coffee.

From ``Maxwell House Coffee Drinks & Desserts Cookbook''

(3 -- color) Coffee and cinnamon cream cheese batters are marbelized together in a chocolate crumb crust to create Cappuccino Swirl Cheesecake.

From ``Maxwell House Coffee Drinks & Desserts Cookbook''

Box: (1) THE PERFECT CUPPA JOE (see text)

(2) Buying, storing, grinding coffee (see text)

(3) Talk the talk (see text)