CLOTHING MAKERS PLAY NUMBERS GAME WITH SIZE.

Byline: Rachel Beck Associated Press 

Laurie Gonzales can't figure out her size anymore.

``I'm a small, medium, large, size 6 some days, size 10 the next,'' Gonzales said during a recent shopping spree in Manhattan. ``Every manufacturer is different. I've got to try on everything to see if it fits.''

She's not alone. Although there are certain standards clothing makers are encouraged to follow, more and more manufacturers are lax with these requirements, making it harder for consumers to rely on a certain size all the time.

In addition, styles in the 1990s range from tight to baggy, leaving buyers bewildered over sizing with each product they try.

``All garments must be measured to fit a certain size range,'' said Irene Mak, a instructor of technical design at the Parsons School of Design in New York. ``But there are a lot of variables that can make every piece different.''

The government and fashion industry both distribute specifications for sizing, known as specs, which generally give measurements for the bust, waist, hip, sleeve and back.

Many clothing makers stick to the specs, especially makers of men's wear, where the customer usually buys based on certain measurements. Also, retailers can send back an entire line if the sizing is incorrect, causing many manufacturers to be diligent about precision.

But there are those that stray from the guidelines, which is the cause of many discrepancies.

``There are a lot of egos and personalities in the fashion industry,'' said George Simonton, a fashion designer and associate professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology. ``Everyone wants to be a little different and clever and that's where some of the problems begin.''

According to industry watchers, the priciest designers, like Oscar de la Renta and Chanel, usually follow the strictest guidelines. Higher-end makes such as Donna Karan's DKNY line generally cut their sizes a little larger, while less-expensive lines are usually slimmer, Mak said.

``The more money you spend, the more accurate it is to the size specification,'' said Miranda Kyriakides, a professor of fashion technology at FIT and Parsons.

As a result, shoppers may take a smaller size in some makes and a larger size in others.

``A lot of what's going on here is psychological more than anything else,'' said Parsons' Mak, who also works as a technical designer for American Eagle Outfitters. ``Our bodies change as we age, and as we get older we may need more room.

``Manufacturers know that putting on something in a size smaller might make you feel better, and then you might buy it.''

Susan Zweig has faced the sizing nightmare on a number of occasions. During a recent visit to the Gap, the medical student found herself trying on both small and large dresses.

``I had no idea what was going on,'' she said. ``There is no continuity.''

So, what's the solution? Try on everything.

``Each fit will be different on each item, even if its the same manufacturer and the same product,'' Mak said. ``Each time you make a seam, the product could be a whole size bigger or smaller.''