CLASSY HAMASAKU A WORK OF ART.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

With entertainment mogul Michael Ovitz as the main backer and ex-Ma Maison and Spago staffer Toshi Kihara as the owner-host, the new HamaSaku in West Los Angeles piques immediate interest.

Though it's in a little corner site in a crowded, ultra-commercial mini- mall on busy Santa Monica Boulevard, it has been decorated with customary Japanese panache, giving it a kind of hideaway discovery aura.

It adds to this by having hired a fresh-from-Tokyo chef named Hiro Fujita, lured to L.A. from Cardinal, a noted Euro-style restaurant in the wealthy Japan capital's Ropongi district.

HamaSaku, at first glance, looks much like other Japanese sushi bar- cafes around town, perhaps a bit classier than most.

But a peek at its menu will quickly let you know that there are some interesting non-Japanese cooking influences at work here.

Chef Fujita's rack of lamb ($21), for example, jumps out as the foremost menu surprise.

Order it as I did and you'll find delectable moist and tender chops flavored with a distinctive but carefully restrained almond-miso sauce.

Fujita leans them aesthetically against each other and utilizes bright green onion strands for a daub of color and as a harmonious accompaniment.

He appeals to mainstream eaters with a marvelous piece of cooked-to-order beef tenderloin ($21) nestled on wasabi-infused mashed potatoes decorated with crossed sticks of crispy deep-fried burdock (gobo).

With both the slab of succulent sauteed salmon ($17.75) in a buttery soy sauce and the sensational appetizer rendition of soft-shell crab ($8.95), Fujita adds wonton in one form or another.

He fashions a large wonton dough tuile with the delicious crab, which rests on baby bitter greens. There are more greens with a scattering of tiny tomatoes behind the tuile.

Tasty lotus root crisps show up on some of his plates.

His baked miso paste-brushed black cod entree ($19), dubbed saiko-style, is one of them. The melty, flaky fish arrives perched on mushroom tempura in this artistic presentation.

In addition to all the familiar sushi and sashimi items as potential starters, there are such tantalizers as shiitake mushrooms stuffed with chicken mousse ($7.50) in a spicy chile sauce and a clever wrapping of Japanese vegetables called a ``terrine'' ($6) served with a hot ponzu-daikon sauce.

The more traditional offerings include a nifty triple-treat tuna triumph called ``tuna, tuna, tuna'' ($11.50) that brings forth an attractive platter containing a spicy tuna ``ravioli,'' a small dollop of tuna tartare and regular tuna sushi.

Just to make sure you remember that there's a creative force or two here, the dessert list includes green tea-flavored tiramisu ($5.75), which works wonderfully, and green tea creme brulee ($5.75), which tastes all right but is probably the ugliest creme brulee in town.

In fact, it's probably the only ugly thing you'll find at pretty HamaSaku.

The facts

--The restaurant: HamaSaku.

--Where: 11043 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles.

--When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. nightly except Sunday, to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

--Behind the scenes: Owner-host is Toshi Kihara. Chef is Hiro Fujita.

--Recommended items: Soft-shell crab appetizer, stuffed mushrooms, marinated albacore sashimi, yakitori, assorted sushi, tuna trio, rack of lamb, beef tenderloin, marinated black cod with mushroom tempura, sauteed salmon with wonton salad, green tea tiramisu.

--How much: Starters and sushi from $4.50 to $14.50, entrees from $17.50 to $21.50, desserts $5.75 each. Major credit cards. Beer and wine.

--Wine list: With a better selection than expected, the starting wine list offer 21 labels ranging from $20 to $75 with a single half bottle of Sterling 1997 pinot noir at $18. Kiksui sake is a lovely refresher served cold ($9.50 for 6 ounces, $17.50 for 12 ounces). Large Sapporo beer bottlings are $6.50 each.

--Reservations: Suggested. Call [phone].

--Our rating: Three and one half stars for food; Three and one half stars for service; Three stars for wine.

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Photo:

A skilled sushi chef artistically prepares an appetizer dish at HamaSaku restaurant in West Los Angeles.

David Krane/Staff Photographer