CLASSICALLY CONTEMPORARY BLACK IS BACK AS DOS, GOWNS REVERT TO ROOTS.

Byline: Barbara De Witt  Fashion Editor

It's always a fashion free-for-all at the Golden Globes, and this one was no exception.

Instead of Jennifer Lopez baring all like she did at last year's Grammys, it was the modestly endowed Bai Ling (``Anna and the King'') who caught the photographers' attention in a gown slashed to the waist and anchored with a belt designed by Roberto Cavalli. Ling called the dress ``kimono-inspired with a hand-painted design that was combination of East and West,'' and made a point to show the press that she was wearing matching panties underneath.

This time out Lopez was lost in the crowd in a short white Grecian shoulder design by Valentino. It was covered by a leopard print jacket for some of the evening.

The other scene-stealer of this year's fashion parade was Charlize Theron, who arrived after the doors were closed and literally stopped traffic in her black iridescent Christina Perrin gown that fit like a glove and featured cut-outs across the back with a reflective belt and silver buckle in front. It was accented at the neck with a huge black and white flower - a trend that's been hot since first seen on TV's ``Sex and the City.''

Both actresses wore their hair up in elegant Old Hollywood dos, setting one trend for the season, but beyond that it was a toss-up whether basic black or feminine pastels reigned as the evening's fashion statement.

Sarah Jessica Parker of ``Sex and the City'' took the pastel plunge in a pale pink gown with a flower at the bodice (with her hair up), while Juliette Binoche of ``Chocolat'' wore a classic velvet gown in a midnight blue that passed as black, and Julia Roberts wore an understated Armani gown in black to match her main squeeze Benjamin Bratt's Armani tuxedo.

Also wearing up dos and black were Sandra Bullock in a Les Habitudes strapless gown, Marg Helgenberger of CBS' ``CSI'' in Dolce & Gabbana with floral design, Marla Sokoloff from ABC's ``The Practice'' in a beaded top over a satin skirt by Pamela Dennis, Sela Ward of ABC's ``Once and Again'' in a Valentino gown, and Jessica Alba from Fox's ``Dark Angel'' with a classy black cocktail-length dress.

Among those who couldn't commit to all-black was Debra Messing of NBC's ``Will & Grace,'' who was stunning in a 1930s-inspired ball gown in wide horizontal stripes of black and white.

But there were those who refused to follow any of the season's unwritten rules - including Catherine Zeta-Jones, who attended on the arm of her husband, Michael Douglas, while wearing a brilliant turquoise gown with a cage of black beads over the bodice by quirky French designer Christian Lacroix, who also designed her wedding gown.

Other fashion independents opting for pale colors were ``The Practice's'' Lara Flynn Boyle in an icy blue sequined gown with a purple stole, and Calista Flockhart in a lavender gown (she was accompanied by co-star Robert Downey Jr.). Allison Janney of NBC's ``The West Wing'' glided down the carpet in a peridot green gown of wired organza by Pamela Dennis. It was accented with floral-designed jewels by Asprey & Garrard, pinned at the back to match the numerous peridot and diamond jewels at her throat and wrists. If there were an award for best use of jewels, this would be the winner.

Other stars were pure gold, such as ``Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon'' star Zhang Ziyi, who chose a Vivienne Tam golden column-style dress accented with gold nail polish and eye shadow, and Angelina Jolie, who wore a strapless champagne-colored gown and an elegant up do. She could have passed for Cinderella if it weren't for the tattoos on her arms.

But that's Hollywood.

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9 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2 -- color) ``The West Wing's'' Allison Janney, above, accentuates her elegant green gown with a Daniel Swarovski crystal evening bag. Newlyweds Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones, below, support the film in which they co-starred, `Traffic.''

(3 -- 4 -- color) Bai Ling (``Anna and the King''), left, wows the crowd with her ``kimono-inspired'' gown from Roberto Cavalli. ``The Practice's'' Lara Flynn Boyle, right, glitters in the limelight Sunday.

(5 -- color) On-screen ``Ally McBeal'' pair Calista Flockhart, left, and Robert Downey Jr. prepare for the evening's bright stars.

(6 -- 7 -- color) ``Chocolat'' nominee Juliette Binoche, above, goes for the style of Old Hollywood glamour in a swirl of deep velvet, while Debra Messing, left, of ``Will & Grace'' leaves everyone seeing stripes in this Ralph Lauren gown.

(8 -- color) Marla Sokoloff of ``The Practice'' was one of many stars who opted for basic black during Sunday's Golden Globes.

Michael Owen Baker/Staff Photographer

(9 -- color) The real-life Erin Brockovich stands out from the crowd during Sunday's Golden Globes in Beverly Hills.

Mark J. Terrill/Associated Press