CLASSIC RAPHY'S BRINGS CREATIVITY TO KOSHER COOKING.Byline: Larry Lipson, Restaurant Critic Eating a meal at Classic Raphy's is like eating a meal at a favorite aunt's house. If that particular aunt isn't a terrific, world-class cook, it doesn't mean that you aren't enjoying yourself. Raphy's is a kosher restaurant in Valley Village. And like those health-inspired restaurants that cater to people on diets, it does an acceptable job that is more broad than deep. How possibly could a kitchen excel in Chinese, Italian, international, seafood, Japanese sushi, Middle Eastern (Israeli, Turkish, Moroccan, Tunisian) and Jewish deli fare? For those who pine for kosher Chinese one night, kosher Italian another and perhaps a mixed plate of kosher Middle Eastern cold noshes on yet another evening, Raphy's is evidently the place to go. That, of course, doesn't translate into great dishes every time, but where else does a hungry person of varied appetite find a kosher kitchen of such breadth in the East San Fernando Valley San Fernando Valley Valley, southern California, U.S. Northwest of central Los Angeles, the valley is bounded by the San Gabriel, Santa Susana, and Santa Monica mountains and the Simi Hills. ? One of its best items on its global menu is listed under salads and dubbed simply the ``combination plate'' ($7.95). This comes forth as a well-stocked platter holding such goodies as hearts of palm, eggplant two ways (marinated pieces or mashed baba ghanoush). Diners also might find a refreshing cucumber mixture, a cole slaw slaw n. Chiefly Southern U.S. Coleslaw. Noun 1. slaw - basically shredded cabbage coleslaw salad - food mixtures either arranged on a plate or tossed and served with a moist dressing; usually consisting of and perhaps hummus hum·mus also hum·us or hom·mos n. A smooth thick mixture of mashed chickpeas, tahini, oil, lemon juice, and garlic, used especially as a dip for pita. and tabbouleh tab·bou·leh or ta·bou·leh n. A Lebanese salad made with bulgur wheat and finely chopped scallions, tomatoes, mint, and parsley. [Arabic tabb . An order of pita bread with this is entirely appropriate. There are five soups. Although they all possess a somewhat institutional character, the wonton ($2.95) and minestrone ($2.95) are probably the best of the ones tried. Seafood is a much stronger category out of Raphy's kitchen than the meat dishes. They'll honor a request for seared sear 1 v. seared, sear·ing, sears v.tr. 1. To char, scorch, or burn the surface of with or as if with a hot instrument. See Synonyms at burn1. 2. ahi tuna ($14.95) and do it quite nicely. Even the halibut halibut: see flatfish. halibut Any of various flatfishes, especially the Atlantic and Pacific halibuts (genus Hippoglossus, family Pleuronectidae), both of which have eyes and colour on the right side. with rice and vegetables ($14.95) appears to be a decidedly more satisfying dish than a gristly gris·tly adj. gris·tli·er, gris·tli·est 1. Composed of or containing gristle. 2. Resembling gristle. gris roasted lamb offering ($14.95) with prunes and almonds. Vegetables vary. They turned out less mushy with a respectable version of chicken schnitzel schnit·zel n. A thin cutlet of veal, usually seasoned, that is dipped in batter and fried. [German, from Middle High German snitzel, diminutive of sniz, slice, from snitzen ($12.95) one time and were the best thing to eat on a broiled broil 1 v. broiled, broil·ing, broils v.tr. 1. To cook by direct radiant heat, as over a grill or under an electric element. 2. To expose to great heat. v. veal chop plate ($18) with fries on another evening. Chicken with garlic ($10.95) from the Chinese category provided an entree of reasonably good taste during one visit, yet one wouldn't choose this over a Chinese restaurant's effort if the kosher factor wasn't present. The same could be said about Raphy's desserts. Obviously, in a true kosher house there's no mixing meat and dairy. Consequently, mousses and other normally cream-involved creations are presented with clever faux ingredients, sometimes quite effectively. But to a palate that doesn't care if the food is kosher or not, there's no trouble concluding that the real thing is superior. We're still left with the realization that Raphy's fits a niche and fits it pretty well, all things considered All Things Considered (ATC) is a news radio program in the United States, broadcast on the National Public Radio network. It was the first news program on the network, and is broadcast live worldwide through several outlets. . Why, it could even become a classic. The facts The restaurant: Classic Raphy's. Where: 12454 Magnolia Blvd., Valley Village. When: Open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday. Open Friday from 11 a.m. to one hour before sundown. Closed Saturday. Recommended items: Combination salad plate, marinated eggplant, baba ghanoush, garlic chicken, seared ahi tuna, chicken schnitzel. How much: Starters from $3 to $8, pastas and entrees from $7 to $25, desserts from $3 to $4. No alcohol. Major credit cards. Reservations: Helpful. Call (818) 487-9531. Our rating: Three stars for food; Three stars for service. CAPTION(S): Photo Photo: Chinese Orange Chicken - yep, it's kosher - is on the eclectic menu at Classic Raphy's. Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer |
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