CLASSIC, ENDURING CUISINE WEATHERING TRENDS, LE SANGLIER SURVIVES.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

When Alain Cuny opened Le Sanglier almost three decades ago, French food was revered as the front runner in elite restaurants across America. Later, of course, came the Italian explosion, the sushi explosion and other minor and major food fads and trends.

Now, once again there's a resurgence of interest in French food. Le Sanglier, which has steadfastly weathered all the national and local economic ups and downs along with the general changes in public taste, is thoroughly enjoying renewed success.

In a location that's not easily visible from the main thoroughfare, Le Sanglier has shown remarkable stability over the years, gathering devotees who have loyally returned week after week, month after month, year after year, despite the myriad reasons why people change their restaurantgoing habits.

--Name: Le Sanglier.

--Address: 5522 Crebs Ave., Tarzana.

--Phone: [phone].

--When we last reviewed: March 25, 1987.

--How long in business: Le Sanglier opened on July 7, 1970.

--Menu/cuisine changes: Le Sanglier, which means ``the boar'' in French, continues to offer wild boar and other game dishes along with a number of favored recipes that have become semi-signature items. You won't find veal with bay shrimp or sole meuniere on the menu anymore, according to chef-owner Cuny. There have not been many radical menu changes, he says, because ``we do the classic, traditional French food.'' And yes, on occasion, patrons may still notice occasional retro specials on the ``du jour'' board like tournedos Rossini or lobster thermidor.

Decor/physical changes: Cuny believes in periodic ``facelifts.'' Roughly every 10 years, he has improved the appearance of the facility both inside and outside. The dominant red hues of the original interior made way for lighter, airier earth tones. For example, the red fabric wall-covering was changed to one with a bronze color in 1990.

Also, the restaurant now sports a patio in front and is currently making changes inside. Many of the original posts have been removed, giving the dining room a ``more open look,'' according to Cuny. Smaller wine glasses were replaced with more expansive ``balloon'' glasses. He says that Le Sanglier is becoming ``more and more elegant.''

--Personnel changes: Alain Cuny continues as the main owner. His original partner, Eugene Ronay, died eight years ago, while some well-known local restaurateurs emerged following stints at this restaurant. Original maitre d' Dieter Wantig and waiter Christian Desmet left in the mid-'70s and opened the Seashell. A chef at Le Sanglier during the early '80s, Basque native Juan Alonso left to open his own restaurant, Le Chene, in Saugus.

--Recommendable dishes: French onion soup, mussels, escargots, Boston salad, lobster and shrimp ravioli, rack of lamb, liver and onions, pear tarte tatin.

--Service quality: Smooth and efficient, the small staff, with a mix of veteran skill and novice enthusiasm, appears to have little trouble satisfying both the familiar regulars and the impressed new faces.

--Pricing: Le Sanglier is not inexpensive. But the value is obviously there, or it would have faltered many years ago. Currently, appetizers run from $7 to $11, entrees from $21 to $27 and desserts $8 and $9 each.

--Wine list/service: The wine list has grown over the years. It now features a larger percentage of Californian bottlings. Today's list ranges from $22 to $275 per bottle and shows off an impressive selection of Bordeaux chateaux wines priced from $30 up, all vintage dated. Not many of the other listings show vintages, however. Le Sanglier offers full cocktail service. Corkage: $12.

--Policies worth mentioning: Wild and farmed game dishes most likely here are wild boar, venison, pheasant, wild duck, rabbit, elk and ostrich. Le Sanglier offers prix-fixe, three-course dinners for $35 or $40. Look for souffles (chocolate and Grand Marnier) to become regular dessert items soon; also Cuny is considering tableside presentations from a movable cart that would include flambeeing.

--Miscellaneous comments: Chef-owner Cuny keeps a mailing list of hundreds of customers who wish to be informed when seasonal wild game dishes are offered.

--Our latest ratings: food: Three and one half stars; wine: Two stars; service: Three and one half stars.

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Photo: Duck with peaches, front, is followed by white chocolate ice cream with raspberry sauce, served from the Le Sanglier menu.

Andy Holzman/Staff Photographer