CLAIM YOUR STEAK THE ELUSIVE PHILLY SANDWICH COMES TO ENCINO.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Ruth Chu moved to Pennsylvania as a teen-ager and fell in love with Philly cheese steak sandwiches.

When she came to California in the early '90s, she had trouble finding a Philadelphia-style cheese steak sandwich that matched the ones she had savored back East.

The entrepreneurial young woman decided to do it herself.

Her first outlet in the San Fernando Valley, Philadelphia Kitchen in Encino, replaces a kabob house in a bright, cheerful little plaza bedecked with umbrella-topped tables.

At lunchtime there's often a line. This is one of those quasi-self-service cafes where you put your order in at the counter, pay for your food in advance, and receive a number on a piece of plastic that you place on your table.

Your food comes forth in disposable plastic ware.

If you pay for a soda-type beverage you'll get a cup to fill up. Tap water with or without ice is, of course, free.

This is also one of those quick-food spots that suggests it purveys food of good quality and freshness while respecting the dieter.

Fat, we're advised, is trimmed from the Philadelphia Kitchen's chicken breasts and its beef steak. Fries and onion rings are cooked in cholesterol-free vegetable oil.

But these claims would mean nothing if the food lacked taste. For the most part, the fare here does avoid the blandness often associated with ``healthy'' fast food.

For the purist, the regular Philly cheese steak with chopped onion ($4.95) and even Cheez Whiz instead of American or provolone cheese, provides a Philly sandwich as close to the original as you're going to find.

Some cheese steak fanciers like lettuce and tomato on their sandwich. The local Philadelphia Kitchen complies.

Additionally, there's the question of whether the beef is chopped or sliced.

The famous Pat's King of Steaks on East Passyunk Avenue in Philadelphia, the place that claims to have invented the cheese steak sandwich, slices its beef.

But today, many other cheese steak sandwich outlets in Philadelphia purportedly chop their beef.

One final point regarding the classic Philly cheese steak sandwich: It's the use of sauce.

Pat's cheese steak consists of thin-sliced rib-eye steak, onions, cheese and Italian bread. No sauce is mentioned.

The new Philadelphia Kitchen, however, offers customers barbecue sauce, teriyaki sauce and something called ``marinated'' sauce.

Getting it ``plain'' with one of the sauces on the side (in case you can't eat it like they do at Pat's) is recommended.

As for variations, the chicken-instead-oeef version for the anti-red meat set is truly a tasty alternative.

Then there are all the size and accompaniment options. Additions of bell pepper, mushrooms, bacon or shrimp - plus a grouping of bell pepper, mushrooms, onion, olives, tomato, pizza sauce and mozzarella instead of the regular cheese - are possible.

The latter, a flavorful, satisfying sandwich, goes by the name ``pizza steak.''

Oh, yeah, and if you want a bit of heat with your cheese steak sandwich, spicy yellow chile peppers are here for the taking. As many as you need.

Hot dogs, hoagies and decent burgers are available. Also nine salads and a trio of teriyaki plates.

And there are even more reasons for locals to come back often: Here's an eating place that keeps long hours.

Philadelphia Kitchen opens very early (7:30 a.m.) with a breakfast menu of egg dishes and breakfast sandwiches.

And consider those teriyaki, entree-type items for dinner.

Presented in black plastic platters with steamed rice and a small mound of mixed lettuces with a choice of dressing, the teriyaki mini-meals are a steal at $6.95.

All three have been tried, with the steak and chicken being rated slightly above the salmon. The latter seems a bit puny, even at this low price.

And from its comprehensive list of sides, recommendable are respectable beer-battered onion rings ($1.95 or $2.95) and thick steak fries ($1.45 or $1.95). Incidentally, these add gratifying heft to any food order.

As for the soups du jour ($2.50 each), regulars get the opportunity to try a different one every day.

The soups vary. Some are pretty good. On their own, they're merely a hot snack.

But when joined with other items, they can give an otherwise simple snack or sandwich order here full meal status.

Especially if a piece of cake ($2.50) is added as an ending.

PHILADELPHIA KITCHEN

Where: 15928 Ventura Blvd., Encino.

Phone: [phone].

When: Open from 7:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. weekdays, from 8 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Recommended items: Philly cheese steak sandwiches (includes various sauce options and ingredient additions), soups, teriyaki plates (steak and chicken), fries, onion rings, salads.

How much: Everything under $12. Most items between $3 and $7. No alcohol. AE, MC, V, Discover, ATM.

Our rating: Three stars for food.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1) Ruth H. Chu, owner of the Philadelphia Kitchen, presents Philly cheese steak sandwiches prepared by chef Noe Vicente, who holds a tray of teriyaki chicken.

(2) Purists debate about whether the beef in a Philly cheese steak should be sliced or chopped, as it is at Philadelphia Kitchen.

(3) Those who crave something other than a cheese steak can order this teriyaki chicken plate with rice and salad.

Michael Owen Baker/Staff Photographer