CITYSNAP.

What's worth seeing? For the capital of a country that's really just a volcano plonked in the middle of the Atlantic, there's a surprising amount to do in Reykjavk.

Bypass the crowds at the Blue Lagoon and head to the locals' favourite bathing spot at Laugardalslaug Geothermal Pool, Sundlaugavegur 30a, Laugars. The largest outdoor pool in Iceland, you can swim or relax in one of the four hot pots while it snows around you. After your dip, get ready for a night on the tiles. Beer was illegal until 1989 in Iceland, but they more than make up for it with a reputation for partying. Join a marathon pub crawl known as the "runtur", and sample the delights of the bars on the main street, Laugavegur.

Feeling peckish? Don't be surprised by traditional Icelandic fare including shark and sheep's testicles. But Reykjavk is a cosmopolitan city with a lot of choice.

For steak, head to the highly-rated Argentina (Barnsstgur 11a, Phone [phone], www.argentina.is, mains from 3,670K) which serves locally-raised beef. For something more informal, head to Babal, a cafe serving hot drinks and snacks (Sklav|roustg 22a, Phone [phone], www.babalu.is).

Where can we stay? Accommodation can be pricey, but if you look around there are deals to be had. The Einholt Guesthouse offers simple but stylish studio apartments from pounds 40 per room per night. If budget's not a problem, head to 101 Hotel, a chic boutique hotel famed for its cocktail bar.

How do we get there? Iceland Express flies from London Gatwick/Stansted to Reykjavk from pounds 69 one way including taxes (0127 966 5220).

Icelandair has return flights from London Heathrow to Reykjavik for pounds 209 return (0870 787 4020).

What shall we take home? Pick up a traditional sweater (locals call it a lopapeysa) known for its distinctive semi circular pattern around the neck. Buy them in numerous shops throughout the city or buy a knitting pattern and do it yourself at the Handknitting Association of Iceland, Skolarvordustigur 19.

When's best to go? Visit between September and March for the best chance of seeing the Northern Lights. If the winter cold doesn't sound inviting, between June and August there is almost 24-hour daylight..