CILANTRO: A VERSATILE HERB WITH ASSERTIVE : SALAD WITH GREEN APPLES AND STUFFED TORTILLAS.

Byline: Cathy Thomas Orange County Register

Cilantro is an essential herb in cuisines with a spicy sizzle.

From Bangkok to Bombay, from Szechuan province to the Yucatan Peninsula, cilantro stands up to the heat of chiles and spices.

With its sharp, almost lemony flavor and peppery aroma, cilantro offers a soothing balance. Although its feathery, fern-like leaves look fragile, it has an assertive taste that is delectable and extremely versatile. It's delicious in mild-mannered, fire-free dishes, too - roughly chopped and sprinkled on sliced tropical fruit, tossed in green salads or stirred into soup.

It has different names, which can lead to confusing ingredient lists. Cilantro is the Spanish word for this dark green herb, but sometimes recipes refer to it as Chinese parsley. Or, in many parts of the world (and in many parts of the United States) it is referred to as coriander. But coriander is the name of the seeds, not the leaves of the plant. The seeds have a completely different flavor - a combination of sage and caraway splashed with lemon. The cilantro leaves are often dubbed ``fresh coriander,'' so cooks know to look in the produce section, not the dried-spice section.

Cilantro by any name is a delicious addition to everything from sandwiches to scrambled eggs. For the most flavor, add cilantro to cooked dishes just before serving. And to keep cilantro fresh and crisp, rinse it in a large bowl of cold water. Drain it well in a colander, wrap it in paper towels and place in a plastic food bag; refrigerate it in the crisper drawer.

Here are some delectable ways to add cilantro to everyday dishes.

MEXICAN-STYLE SCRAMBLED EGGS: In a skillet, saute chopped onions and strips of corn tortillas in a little oil until onion is transparent. Beat eggs with salt and pepper to taste; add to onion mixture. Cook eggs over medium heat, stirring frequently, until cooked. Garnish with chopped cilantro and, if desired, salsa.

SALSA - STORE-BOUGHT OR HOMEMADE: Chopped cilantro adds color and a fresh taste to store-bought salsa. Or make a simple salsa from scratch with diced tomatoes, finely diced red onion, a little minced jalapeno chile (add just a little; you can always add more after you taste it), salt and plenty of chopped cilantro and, if desired, diced avocado; then it tastes like a combination of guacamole and salsa.

CILANTRO PESTO: Use a food processor fitted with a metal blade; add 1 clove garlic and 4 ounces Parmesan cheese (either grated OR cut into 1-inch cubes). Process until minced. Add 2 cups roughly chopped cilantro, 1/4 cup pine nuts, 1 tablespoon canned, diced jalapenos and 1/4 teaspoon salt; process until finely minced. With processor running, add 3/4 cup olive oil. Toss with hot pasta, potatoes, vegetables OR potstickers - only enough to barely coat. Or drizzle a little on cooked, cold meat, fish OR chicken. Or cut a loaf of French OR Italian bread lengthwise; brush on a little Cilantro Pesto and in preheated oven bake OR broil until heated and crisp.

SOUP: Cook chopped onion, minced garlic and chopped carrots in a little oil until onion is transparent. Add a can of white beans (undrained), 1 cup chicken broth and a pinch dried red chile flakes. Cook mixture until heated and carrots are tender. Add minced cilantro and serve.

GREEN SALAD: Combine greens, sliced radishes, tomatoes and a handful of fresh cilantro sprigs. Toss salad with a simple vinaigrette dressing (add a little hot pepper sauce to spice up dressing, if desired). Or for a slightly more complicated approach (but well worth the effort), try Chris Schlesinger's Salad With Apples and Stuffed Tortillas (recipe follows).

FLAVORED BUTTER: Use 1 pat flavored butter on top of broiled fish, shellfish OR chicken. Butter will melt and drizzle over top to create a simple sauce. Use a food processor fitted with a metal blade to mince 1 clove garlic, 3 tablespoons cilantro, 2 teaspoons fresh ginger and 1 thin slice jalapeno. Add 1 stick butter OR margarine; process until mixture is smooth. Place mixture on a piece of wax paper and roll into a tube; refrigerate.

CHINESE-STYLE TURKEY BURGERS: Combine 1 pound ground turkey with 1 beaten egg, 1 tablespoon light soy sauce, 3 tablespoons finely minced water chestnuts, 2 tablespoons minced red onion and ground black pepper to taste. Form spiced turkey into 1/2-inch patties. On preheated grill, grill or broil until meat juices run clear. While patties are cooking, make sauce.

For sauce, combine 1/3 cup orange marmalade (spreadable fruit will work) and 1 teaspoon light soy sauce in a saucepan; cook mixture on medium-low heat until marmalade melts; stir in 1/4 cup chopped cilantro and spoon sauce onto patties. Serve patties on buns and top meat with some finely shredded cabbage.

PINEAPPLE-CILANTRO SALAD: Slice 1 fresh pineapple and place slices on a platter. Sprinkle with a generous amount of chopped cilantro. It is a refreshing accompaniment to tangy Chinese, Mexican or Thai food. If desired, add slivers of peeled jicama.

CILANTRO CREAM SAUCE: Combine 1 cup chopped cilantro, 1/4 cup chicken broth, 2 teaspoons minced ginger, 1 teaspoon canned diced jalapenos, 1 clove minced garlic, 1 teaspoon cornstarch and 3/4 cup whipping cream in a blender. Whirl until pureed. Place mixture in a medium saucepan and boil on high heat, stirring frequently, until reduced by half. Season with salt to taste. Pour a small ladle of sauce onto each plate. Top each puddle with 1 grilled pork chop, thin slices of pork roast, grilled chicken OR shellfish.

CHICKEN WITH CILANTRO-CORN SALSA: Pound boneless skinned chicken breasts between 2 pieces plastic wrap until 1/4-inch thick. Dredge pieces in a flour mixture (flour mixed with salt, pepper and a little chile powder). Saute chicken in a little oil in a large skillet until browned on both sides and thoroughly cooked. In a small saucepan, combine 1 cup canned OR fresh corn kernels and 1/2 cup salsa; heat salsa mixture until simmering. Add 1 cup chopped cilantro. Pour salsa mixture over chicken and serve.

DRESSING:

1 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons canned chipotle chile en adobo, pureed OR mashed (see Note)

3/4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons lime juice

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1/2 to 1 tablespoon ground cumin 

Salt and pepper to taste

SALAD:

8 ounces mild goat cheese OR queso fresco cheese

1/4 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro

8 corn tortillas

1 head romaine lettuce, rinsed, drained and torn OR cut into pieces

1 Granny Smith OR other tart green apple, cored and sliced OR diced

1 avocado, pitted and sliced OR diced

1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced

For Dressing, in a medium saucepan, bring orange juice to a boil over high heat. Boil until reduced to 1/4 cup. Remove from heat and cool. Add all remaining dressing ingredients. Dressing can be made 4 days in advance and refrigerated.

For Salad, in a small bowl, combine cheese and cilantro; mix well. Place 4 tortillas on a baking sheet and spread each with 1/4 of cheese mixture. Top each with 1 tortilla. For a crisper tortilla, brush tortilla with a little olive oil.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven about 5 minutes per side. Cut into quarters.

In a large bowl, combine romaine, apple, avocado and bell pepper. Toss in enough dressing to lightly coat leaves. If you have dressing left over, refrigerate it and drizzle over roast chicken or grilled pork tenderloin.

Place salad on a platter or individual plates and arrange tortilla quarters around edge of salad. Serve at once. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

NOTE: Canned chipotle chiles are sold in Latin American markets and some supermarkets. You won't use the whole can for this recipe. Store leftover chipotles in freezer and use small amounts in sauces and dressings. Chipotle chiles are ripened and smoked jalapenos.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 678 calories, 53.4 grams fat, 42 milligrams cholesterol, 361 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from ``Lettuce in Your Kitchen'' by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby (William Morrow).

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Photo: (color) Cilantro adds tangy freshness to Salad With Apples and Stuffed Tortillas.

Michael Kitada/Orange County Register