CHILEAN CUISINE IS WELCOME ADDITION TO VALLEY SCENE.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic CHILEAN FOOD would, one might think, be as popular around Los Angeles Los Angeles (lôs ăn`jələs, lŏs, ăn`jəlēz'), city (1990 pop. 3,485,398), seat of Los Angeles co., S Calif.; inc. 1850. as Chilean wine Chile has a long history of wine making, going back to the conquistadores who brought grape vines with them in the mid 16th Century and planted vineyards. In the mid 18th century, French varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were introduced. . Wrong. That's simply because of the lack of Chilean restaurants. Here's a South American cuisine Some of the richest food products of South America come from the middle of the continent, the Amazonia. In countries like Peru there is a strong influence of the Inca and their cuisine. Potatoes are frequently grown as a result of this, and also plants such as quinoa. that I remember fondly from the late '70s, having then been acquainted with a little restaurant on Melrose Avenue Melrose Avenue is a well-known Los Angeles street that starts from Santa Monica Boulevard at the border between Beverly Hills and West Hollywood and ends at Hoover Street in Silver Lake. Melrose runs north of Beverly Boulevard and south of Santa Monica Boulevard. called Rincon Chileno. And it is, I understand, still there, and still a rarity of sorts because some three decades later it's almost impossible to find other Chilean restaurants around this mighty metropolis. But Canoga Park now has one. Its name: Los Chilenos. And it brings back memories. Like pastel de choclo ($9.75), for example. Choclo means ear of corn, and this dish is basically a meat pie carrying a topping of freshly ground corn instead of the usual pie crust. The Los Chilenos kitchen shows merit with its version: a firm, almost- crunchy corn topping, slightly sweet from its sprinkled cape of sugar, and yielding a delicious, meaty filling. The corn and meat pie comes forth with an accompanying plate of refreshing tomato and onion salad flavored with cilantro. Traditional congrio margarita ($13.95) provides another tasty Chilean treat here. Somewhat souplike, this well-seasoned and spiced dish of congrio (king clip) fish fillets with shrimp, mussels, scallops and clams delivers a hearty meal that satisfies in every way. Although steaks are not as revered in Chile as in neighboring Argentina, beef is certainly not ignored. Consequently, the Los Chilenos menu offers rib-eye, skirt and top sirloin The Top Sirloin is cut from the loin of a steer or heifer. Top Sirlon steaks differ from sirloin steaks in that the bone and the tenderlon have been removed. Some American butchers call a thick top sirloin steak a chateaubriand, although the French reserve that term for a much better cut entrees, balancing its several chicken and seafood main courses along with a handful of pasta plates. Unquestionably un·ques·tion·a·ble adj. Beyond question or doubt. See Synonyms at authentic. un·ques  tion·a·bil one of the best meat dishes here is slow-roasted asado al horno ($10.95), a generous portion of tender beef, rich and comforting, simmered in a red wine sauce and available with rice, mashed or french fried potatoes French fried potatoes, French fries (US) npl → patatas fpl or (LAM) papas fpl fritas. A tasty rib-eye steak with sauteed onions, two eggs and fries ($13.95) also hits the spot. Chilean seabass ($16.50), the market name for Patagonian toothfish The Patagonian Toothfish (Dissostichus eleginoides) is a large fish found in the cold, temperate waters (from 50 to 3850 m depth) of the Southern Atlantic, Southern Pacific, Indian, and Southern Oceans on seamounts and continental shelves around most sub-Antarctic , though neatly cooked with garlic and parsley in white wine, was a disappointment one evening, having a bit too fishy fish·y adj. fish·i·er, fish·i·est 1. Resembling or suggestive of fish, as in taste or odor. 2. Cold or expressionless: a fishy stare. 3. a flavor for my liking. But puffy, hot empanadas ($3 each) filled with beef, chicken or seafood, provide worthy starters, as do the mini versions, called empanaditas (three for $4.50) stuffed with shrimp and cheese or a seafood mixture. Ceviche ce·vi·che or se·vi·che n. Raw fish marinated in lime or lemon juice with olive oil and spices and served as an appetizer. [American Spanish, from Spanish cebiche, fish stew, from fanciers may like the quantity of seafood in the smaller rendition ($7) here, though the ingredients don't seem to have enjoyed much time marinating. A larger version ($12) is also available. Desserts, primarily baked in-house, are displayed on a sample tray and include an enjoyable Chilean chocolate and condensed milk filo FILO - stack dough creation called mil hojas ($3.50) and the traditional alfajores frosted cookies ($1.50 each). Los Chilenos, which starts your meal off with its complimentary house- baked bread and spicy dipping salsa, keeps a small selection of those highly favored, moderately priced, Chilean wines on hand. So now local Chilean wine fanciers can finally match them to their natural mates from the fare of Chile. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com LOS CHILENOS Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars - Wine: One star Where: 8408 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park. Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, from noon to 7 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday. Recommended items: Empanadas, empanaditas, pastel de choclo, asado al horno, Chilean rib-eye steak with eggs and onions, congrio Margarita, mil hojas (thousand leaves pastry). How much: Starters from $2.75 to $15.50, pastas and entrees from $10 to $16.50, desserts $1.50 to $3.50. Beer and wine. AE, MC, V. Wine list: No written list yet. Half a dozen Chilean bottlings on hand ($15 or $20 per bottle) include four cabernet sauvignons, one merlot and a chardonnay. Recommended is the 2000 vintage of Castillo de Molina ($20), a well-crafted cabernet sauvignon, smooth, fruity, with a touch of age and a nice, long finish. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $10. Reservations: Helpful: Call (818) 716-4169. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Empanadas - with beef, chicken or seafood - are a hot choice for an appetizer at Los Chilenos in Canoga Park. Joel P. Lugavere/Special to the Daily News |
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