CHILE.

CHILE LIVES UP TO ITS REPUTATION for diverse geography in every possible way. More than 4,300 km long but a mere 180km wide, Chile stretches from the Peruvian border in the north through the most arid desert in the world to the desolate Antarctic. In between, this varied country manages to squeeze in good wines, great skiing, superb surfing and a landscape that varies unceasingly.

With the Andes mountains thrusting into the eastern skies, Santiago has one of the most spectacular natural settings of any capital city in the world, smog permitting. Two hour's drive west, the Pacific Ocean laps the port of Valparaiso and the seaside resort of Vina del Mar.

Arriving in Santiago usually comes as pleasant surprise for travelers in Latin America; a friendly population and stable economy to make it an important business center for the region.

Easy access to the rest of the continent means many companies have made Santiago their base for Latin American operations. In particular, Chile has efficient and cheap telecommunications in a country renowned for the reduced role of central government and liberal approach to trade. Privatization in Chile is still under way, as the government looks to sell off ports, waterworks and infrastructure projects throughout 2000.

The best way to get around town is by black and yellow taxi, which are cheap, reliable and always metered. The Metro is safe, dependable and much faster than cabs during rush hour.

Although Chileans share the Latin reputation for being late, punctuality is expected in the business world. Business dealings are straightforward and direct.

Santiago is generally as safe as any major European city or New York. Don't tempt fate by carrying large sums of money or slinging expensive camera equipment casually over your shoulder, and never change money on the street. If you visit friends or a restaurant and must return to your hotel after dark, take a cab.

The Central Market, near the old Mapocho Railway Station downtown, has a wide variety of restaurants serving famed Chilean seafood, particularly salmon and shellfish. Also try a Chilean specialty, pastel de choclo, a baked concoction of minced meat, chicken and spices topped with mashed corn.

There are good views from atop the San Cristobal Hill, which is accessible by funicular railway, (Metro Tobalaba), cable car (called the Teleferico), bicycle or car. The smaller Santa Lucia Hill also has good views and a ruined fort, but it's best to avoid at night.

For evening entertainment, go to Bellavista, where many of Santiago's best restaurants offer a variety of world cuisine, from sushi to Spanish. The main street is lined with bars, all of which are a bit worn around the edges but a few steps away are some of the best dancing spots. For something altogether more bohemian, head toward the northern end of Pio Nono and bear right along Constitucion, where you might hear readings by Chile's most famous poets or live interpretations of local music.

World-class vineyards are one hour's drive south of Santiago: Concha y Toro (821-7100); Santa Carolina (238-2855); and Santa Rita (with restaurant, 821-4179). The wine industry claims it cannot produce enough wine to meet international demand. Nonetheless, prophets never flourish in their own land, and Chileans are great beer drinkers--influenced by German immigration over the last 100 years.

Travel around Chile is relatively easy, and prices are reasonable. At least four domestic airlines fly regular routes along the length (and breadth!) of the country. If you're covering a lot of ground, Visit Chile is an airpass for international travelers allowing cheap combinations of flights around the country -- buy before you travel.