CHEF ASIDE, IT'S DELECTABLE AT DIAGHILEV.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

As one of the few five-star restaurants in Los Angeles, Diaghilev, the romantic Franco-Russian haute dining room in the Wyndham Bel Age Hotel in West Hollywood, consistently has to be at peak form to retain its lofty status.

Consequently, when its accomplished chef is assigned to a sister hotel's almost equally celebrated restaurant, and a new, young replacement moves into the kitchen, it's time for some critical appraisal.

Youthful Boris Chernyak, 24, was touted as ``the youngest chef in Los Angeles to helm an award-winning established restaurant'' when he was appointed to the Diaghilev post late last year after chef Tony Hodges was assigned to the Wyndham Checkers Hotel downtown.

But it became evident that the talented Chernyak evidently needed some mature guidance.

So, the smart Wyndham people brought in former Beverly Hills Hotel sous chef Andreas Nieto.

At a recent pre-Nieto visit to Diaghilev, it was apparent that this restaurant may be almost worthy of its high rating, but not quite.

Some of the sauce reductions seemed too salty, especially in the otherwise delicious house version of chicken Kiev ($23), this one stuffed with morels and black truffles, not that cholesterol-full, heart-stopping, butter-spurting mixture of the traditional recipe.

Must have been the port sauce that produced the saltiness.

And there were shades of the same problem in a cabernet sauce with the puff-pastry-covered salmon coulibiac (here called ``kulibiaka de saumon,'' $23) made with a sturgeon mousse and, again, without any additional faults.

But chicken consomme with celery and pearl noodles ($9) also came up a touch too salty.

However, salmon and sturgeon tartare ($15), handsomely perched on a bed of smoked salmon provided a superb starting plate one night, as did Siberian-style ravioli-like dumplings called pelmieny Siberskii ($14) stuffed with veal and duck meat flavored with a hint of sesame and saffron.

Of course, if you really want to splurge here, there are five caviar options that range from $45 to $105, but you might need an ice-cold Absolut or Stoly or two ($6 each) to give you enough courage to order them.

Meanwhile the house veal chop ($34), dedicated to Joffrey Ballet creator Gerald Arpino, is a satisfying rendition, helped along by some earthy cepes (mushrooms) and a piquant raspberry vinegar sauce. No salt problems with this dish.

But if you begin your Diaghilev dinner with a glass or bottle of bubbly, that tartare dish is a perfect mate.

Meanwhile, Russian musicians play lilting piano and harp, and the waiting staff fusses over you.

And you quickly realize that you're in one of the best restaurants in the West, even if it temporarily is suffering mildly from a change in chefs.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Diaghilev.

Where: Wyndham Bel Age Hotel, 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood.

When: Open for dinner only, from 6:30 to 10:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

Behind the scenes: Longtime maitre d'-manager here is Dimitri Dimitrov.

Recommended items: Salmon and sturgeon tartare on a bed of smoked salmon, pelmieny Siberskii (Siberian veal and duck raviolis), endive salad, kulibiaka de saumon (salmon in puff pastry with sturgeon mousse), house version of poulet Kiev, braised veal chop with cepes, cheese plate or pastries.

How much: Starters from $8 to $105, entrees from $20 to $34, desserts $8 each. Full bar. All major credit cards.

Wine list: Large list with large markups. Everything from Fetzer to Chateau d'Yquem. Corkage fee $10.

Reservations: Advisable. Call [phone]

Our rating: Three and One Half Stars for food; Three Stars for service; Two and One Half Stars for wine.