CHEF'S PLACE FULFILLS DREAM.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

The first thing that really impresses you at the new Hugo Molina restaurant in Pasadena is the bread.

And the second is the soup.

Which means - if you believe people like me, who suggest that these are important indicators of cooking merit - that you can expect good stuff to follow.

And it most certainly does.

Chef Molina, previously the culinary force behind the success of the Parkway Grill and Crocodile Cafes, and now satisfying his long-awaited dream of owning his own place, bakes little round seed-crusted loaves of sun-dried tomato bread flavored with a touch of cumin and a barely discernible hint of anis.

He cuts them in quarters and serves them hot and crunchy, and you have an immediate problem if you're the least bit hungry when they arrive. They vanish into your mouth at an alarming rate. And before you know it, there are more of those delectable, addictive quarter-loaf wedges perched seductively in front of you.

Then, when the handsomely presented house double soup ($2.95), a bowl containing one half filled with a peppery tortilla soup and the other with a smooth black bean soup, arrives, you tend to pair these delicious hot liquids with more bread.

Consequently, by the end of a full meal here, you're pretty much stuffed to the gills.

And usually very happy.

That's because everything is done with skill and artistry. If you order the ahi tuna starter ($9.45), for example, it comes on a special orange-toned, diamond-shaped plate and looks almost too picture-perfect to eat.

The three thick, rare, pan-seared, purple tuna triangles lean provocatively on a mound of mixed marinated red onions and spicy sprouts dressed in a wasabi-soy vinaigrette.

Almost as handsome - and hot in both seasoning and temperature - is Molina's stuffed poblano chile pepper ($7.95), packed with a tasty shrimp, mushroom and cheese mixture and floating in an accommodating huitlacoche sauce. I've heard people complain about the strong earthiness of huitlacoche, the ``corn smut'' flavoring used extensively in Mexico. But Molina's sauce version has a mere subtle suggestion of it. Yes, he's certainly a master at handling assertive seasonings, making them diner-friendly.

This is also apparent in a guajillo sauce with his empanada-shaped, achiote-flavored quesadillas, a trio of them ($5.95) perched proudly, one stuffed with smoked duck, one with chicken, the third with portabello mushrooms and leeks, all three tasty and light.

Molina's flat breads - really oval, flat-style pizzas - vary from a simple tomato-and-cheese version to those with exotic topping mixtures of cheese and fruit, to my favorite with Italian sausage, Manchego cheese, Japanese eggplant, sweet garlic and fresh tomato ($10.25).

His pastas also have personality. A plate of shrimp-stuffed ravioli triangles ($13.50), for example, pliant and flavorful, bring back that mild guajillo sauce and a melange of delicious wild mushrooms.

To his simple, effectively moist, pan-roasted chicken ($15.95), Molina adds fresh roasted garlic, a honey-sweetened cilantro sauce and green chile-flavored mashed potatoes. Both his lamb chops ($20.50) and grilled beef filet ($17.95) are impeccably prepared and served attractively with gratifying accompaniments. A nutty rice recipe and fruity merlot sauce enhance the lamb dish, while a rich red porcini-cabernet sauce and chile-boosted onion rings power the beef to memorable heights.

Finish with the dramatic Chocolate Towers dessert ($6.50) and you'll go home knowing that in culinary terms there's no doubt this Hugo is a victor.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Hugo Molina.

Where: 1065 E. Green St., Pasadena.

When: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Behind the scenes: Hugo Molina is chef and co-owner.

Recommended items: Trio of quesadillas, house soup, pan-seared ahi tuna medallions, Japanese eggplant and Manchego cheese pizza, shrimp ravioli with wild mushrooms, pan-roasted chicken breast, grilled beef filet with scalloped potatoes, lamb chops with black rice and merlot sauce, chocolate tower, trio of creme brulees.

How much: Starters and salads from $3 to $11, pastas and entrees from $12 to $21, desserts from $5.50 to $6.50. Beer and wine. All major credit cards except Discover.

Wine list: Conscientious beginning list of wines and beers at fair markups. Corkage: $10.

Reservations: Suggested. Call [phone].

Our rating: Four Stars for food; Three and One Half Stars for service; Three Stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos

Photo: (1) The black bean and tortilla soup combo ($2.95) is a double pleasure at Hugo Molina in Pasadena.

(2) Co-owners Aricia Alvarado, left, and Hugo Molina have combined artistry and skill in their Green Street establishment.

Terri Thuente/Daily News