CHAMPAGNE CAFE COULD USE A TOUCH OF THE BUBBLY.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

At the new Champagne French Bakery Cafe in Granada Hills, there are freshly squeezed juices, Evian, Perrier, lemonade, other juices and popular soft drinks poured. But no champagne.

With its fresh-out-of-the-oven breads and generally inviting tarts, cakes and assorted baked goods, you'd think a flute of bubbly would be an enjoyable pairing, especially on festive occasions and especially with this name.

But at this new quasi-self-service outpost of a burgeoning California chain (there's one in Thousand Oaks and half a dozen more slated for L.A. County), there are several other expectations that go unfulfilled.

Soups ($4.95 and $5.95) range from institutional to passable. Even French onion.

Salads are not necessarily that much better, sometimes being served with a number of wilted leaves.

``Fresh roasted turkey,'' as promised on the menu and an integral part of the house croque sandwich ($8.95) is a smoked, processed product admittedly ``out of a package,'' according to a kitchen staffer.

Croque monsieur ($8.95), the classic French grilled ham and cheese sandwich, was toasted crisply on only one side one day, leaving the untoasted white bread slice soft and mushy.

Portions are generous here and the quiches can be pretty good. There's the traditional quiche Lorraine (this version made with grilled ham and Swiss cheese, $7.95) and a creamed spinach and Swiss cheese quiche ($7.95). A listed chicken and mushroom rendition ($7.95) wasn't available one evening.

Thoughtfully, half quiche options with soup and salad ($8.95) provide a satisfying meal possibility.

From the house specialties list, in addition to four quiches, there are two crepes. These come forth as relatively large ones, a salmon and spinach recipe taking up the better part of a decent-size platter.

Incidentally, the garlicky sauteed, parsleyed potatoes could be the best thing cooked here and they're an optional accompaniment with most of the entree-style plates.

They worked very well, in fact, with a chicken Dijonnaise dish ($9.95), which, had the sauce lacked a slight over-saltiness, would have really been gratifying.

As for gratification plus, you'll find it here in many of the patisserie items - like Champagne's chocolate bitter cake ($4.25), memorably moist and flavorful, and one of several tarts.

There's a fine pecan tart ($3.95) or try the pastry circle of sweet goodness composed handsomely with fresh strawberries ($4.25).

Come to think of it, what a great companion the strawberry tart would be to a glass of champagne.

CHAMPAGNE FRENCH BAKERY CAFE

Where: 16856 Devonshire St., Granada Hills.

Phone: [phone].

When: Open for breakfast, lunch, early dinner and snacks from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Quiches (Lorraine or spinach and Swiss cheese), chicken crepe, pecan tart, strawberry tart, chocolate bitter cake.

Children's menu: For children 12 and under. Macaroni and cheese ($3.95) or soft roll sandwiches served with sauteed potatoes or green salad (choice of turkey, roasted chicken or ham and Swiss cheese, $4.25 each).

How much: All individual servings under $10. No alcohol. Major credit cards.

Our rating: One and half stars for food.