CAULIFLOWER IT'S THE NEW POTATO.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Cauliflower - that white, nondescript, compact flowery-looking vegetable is usually remembered from childhood days when it was served overcooked and soggy (and even smelly), smothered with yucky, rubbery American cheese. Too bad! Many don't know what they're missing.

``It's versatile, delicious and one of my favorite vegetables,'' says Lee Hefter, executive chef/partner at Spago, Beverly Hills and Vert, Hollywood, adding that it's very underrated.

``Countries where vegetable cuisine reigns, notably India, treat cauliflower as royalty,'' writes Elizabeth Schneider in her compendium ``Vegetables From Amaranth to Zucchini: The Essential Reference.'' ``But in this country cauliflower is barely bourgeois - never aristocratic - primarily because it is carelessly chosen and cooked in ways that fail to enhance its mild sweetness, creamy pallor and delicate crunch.''

But the tide may be turning.

Lately, cauliflower has become the darling of the vegetable set - with low-carbers using it to make faux mashed potatoes, as a stand-in for potatoes in a variety of potato and other salads, shredded as a substitute for rice and more. With its low-carb content (one cup cooked has 5 grams carbohydrate and 3.3 grams dietary fiber), it's no wonder. Even if you're not watching carbs, cauliflower is a great choice with just 30 calories in a cooked cupful.

``.. cauliflower is The Great Fooler and makes a terrific substitute for rice, potatoes and even bulgar wheat or noodles,'' writes Dana Carpender in her recently released ``15-Minute Low-Carb Recipes.''

To make cauliflower puree (fauxtatoes, as Carpender calls them), microwave cauliflower florets in a casserole with a couple of tablespoons water, covered, on high power (or steam, if desired) until tender but not smelling like sulfur. Drain thoroughly, then puree in a food processor or blender with a little butter and salt and pepper to taste.

For potato salad, microwave florets on high power with the water clinging to them in a covered dish. Check after three minutes; you want them a bit soft, but not falling apart and mushy. Toss with a variety of dressings - curried mayo, traditional mayo, sour cream/mustard/dill pickle, sour cream/barbecue sauce, herbed sour cream, wine vinaigrette, hot bacon, etc.

Marissa Mitchell, a former personal chef to some of the stars, began making faux potatoes with cauliflower two years ago, when she cooked for Quentin Tarantino.

``I was trying to make something that had the consistency of mashed potatoes and experimented with different vegetables.''

For best results, press all the water from the cauliflower with a towel, she advises. Her version includes a little whipping cream and a couple of tablespoons each (mixed in by hand) of butter, grated Parmesan cheese and goat cheese.

Mitchell, who since September has been executive chef of Pure Foods Inc. (a low-carb food company with stores in Beverly Hills and Santa Monica) suggests trying other flavor variations on the puree theme - such as cream and crumbled bacon, basil and Parmesan cheese, curry or Indian seasonings or cream, butter and curry. Or puree roasted vegetables like leeks or squash with the cauliflower.

Mitchell also uses steamed cauliflower instead of pasta in mac and cheese, and a good salad combines blanched cauliflower with balsamic vinaigrette, mustard, a pinch of herbs and shaved Parmesan.

At Spago, Hefter serves cauliflower several ways - including tossed with Indian spices, salt, pepper, a little sugar and cumin seeds and roasted (on a sheet pan) until tender but not mushy. He accompanies the florets or wedges with coconut or cilantro chutney and serves them with langoustines in a curry sauce. By itself, the spiced cauliflower also makes a good vegetarian dish.

A curried cauliflower soup topped with warm dungeness crab is another winning menu selection, as is sauteed skate served with a puree of cauliflower and topped with caramelized cauliflower tossed with capers, raisins, toasted almonds, chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. An individual cauliflower gratin topped with bread crumbs ``is a beautiful alternative to potatoes and is served with roasted leg of lamb with olives.''

Cauliflower makes a good canvas for a wealth of flavor combinations as well as dishes with Mediterranean, Indian, Asian and other overtones. The ideas here may give you a new outlook on the underrated vegetable.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

RIGATONI SALAD WITH GREEN CAULIFLOWER, CAPERS AND SAFFRON

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt

1 head green OR white cauliflower, stems trimmed and head separated into bite-size florets

10 ounces uncooked rigatoni

1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley leaves

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

In a small bowl, stir together 4 tablespoons olive oil, lemon juice, saffron, cumin, cayenne and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Set aside.

Put cauliflower florets in a steamer basket and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Place over boiling water, cover, and steam until just tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Florets should still have a little crunch to them and not be at all mushy. Remove steamer basket from pan and place under cold running water to stop the cooking. Drain well.

Bring a large saucepan 3/4 full of water to a boil and add 1 teaspoon salt. Add rigatoni, stir well and cook until al dente, 9 to 10 minutes or according to package directions. Drain and transfer to a large, deep bowl.

Toss pasta with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add cooled cauliflower and lemon-juice mixture and turn to coat well. Set aside a few of parsley leaves for garnish and add remaining parsley leaves and thyme to pasta, turning to distribute evenly. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 6 hours before serving to allow flavors to blend. Bring salad to room temperature. Garnish with reserved parsley leaves and capers and serve. Makes 8 servings.

From ``Williams-Sonoma Salad,'' by Georgeanne Brennan.

CAULIFLOWER GRATIN WITH PROSCIUTTO 

1 head cauliflower (about 2 pounds before trimming)

2 1/2 tablespoons butter, plus more for baking dish

3 tablespoons fine bread crumbs

Salt

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3/4 cup milk

3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1 bay leaf

1 garlic clove, peeled and halved

Pepper

1 ounce prosciutto (1 large OR 2 small thin slices)

1 cup shredded Cheddar (use raw milk Cheddar if desired) OR mozzarella cheese

Trim cauliflower and divide into florets. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook florets until just tender, about 6 minutes. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Melt 1/2 tablespoon butter in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Add bread crumbs and stir to coat with butter. Season with salt. Cook, stirring, until bread crumbs are golden brown, about 5 minutes; set aside.

Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Add flour and whisk to blend. Cook 1 minute, then add milk, broth, bay leaf and garlic. Bring to a boil, whisking, then adjust heat to maintain a bare simmer and cook 8 to 10 minutes, scraping sides of pan with a spatula occasionally. Season with salt and pepper. Remove bay leaf and garlic. Keep warm.

Cut florets in half or quarters and arrange in a buttered low-sided oval baking dish just large enough to hold them in one layer. Season with salt and pepper. Pour sauce over cauliflower. Tear prosciutto into shreds and scatter over sauce. Top with cheese, then with bread crumbs. Bake in lower third of a preheated 400-degree oven until bubbly and browned, about 30 minutes. Let rest 15 minutes before serving. Serve with chicken, lamb or pork. Makes 6 servings.

CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup chopped red bell peppers

1/4 cup chopped celery

1/4 teaspoon crushed dried thyme

4 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 pound cauliflower florets, trimmed and chopped

1/3 cup heavy whipping cream 

1 cup half-and-half

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Chopped parsley for garnish (optional)

In a large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, bell peppers and celery and saute until vegetables are limp, about 5 minutes. Stir in thyme and broth. Add cauliflower, cover and cook until vegetables are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

Transfer mixture to a food processor in two batches and puree until smooth. Return soup to pot and stir in cream and half-and-half. Season with salt and pepper. Heat soup through, being careful not to let it boil. Ladle into soup bowls and sprinkle with parsley, if desired. Makes 8 servings.

From ``Low-Carb Quick & Easy,'' by Frances Towner Giedt.

SMASHED CAULIFLOWER WITH JALAPENO AND CHEESE

This is delicious. For a change, make it without either the cheese or the chile - or both.

1 large head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), trimmed and cut into florets

1/2 cup grated Mexican manchego OR shredded Monterey Jack cheese 

1 jalapeno chile, seeded and chopped

2 to 3 tablespoons heavy whipping cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro OR flat-leaf parsley

Steam cauliflower in a steamer basket over 2 inches of simmering water until just tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain. Place cauliflower in a food processor fitted with metal blade, along with cheese, chile and 2 tablespoons cream. Pulse until blended. Taste and add salt and pepper. If needed, add an additional tablespoon of cream to get a smooth consistency. Transfer to a heated serving dish and sprinkle with cilantro. Serve at once. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Low-Carb Quick & Easy,'' by Frances Towner Giedt.

NIGELLA'S CAULIFLOWER NUGGETS 

1 large head cauliflower, about 2 3/4 pounds

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

1/4 cup ground cumin

Remove core from cauliflower. Break head into small florets, about 3/4-inch wide. Place in a large bowl and toss with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and toss with cumin. Place in a rimmed baking sheet. Roast in a preheated 425-degree oven 30 minutes or until soft and caramelized, turning once during cooking. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, if desired. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Cooking 1-2-3,'' by Rozanne Gold.

CAULIFLOWER AND POTATOES WITH SPICES (Aloo Gobhi)

1 head cauliflower (1 1/2 to 2 pounds)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

3 boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 to 4 tablespoons peeled and finely shredded fresh ginger

2 teaspoons minced garlic

3/4 teaspoon ground turmeric 

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons salt OR to taste

3/4 cup water

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro

1/2 teaspoon garam masala (available in Indian stores and specialty food stores) OR cumin seeds, roasted and ground

Separate cauliflower florets and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces. Peel stem and cut crosswise into slices 1/8-inch thick. Chop leaves, if any, and add to cauliflower.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, warm oil. When hot, add cumin seeds and fry until they turn several shades darker, about 30 seconds. Add potatoes and stir-fry until lightly crisped, about 5 minutes. Add ginger, garlic, turmeric and cayenne pepper and mix well. Add cauliflower, salt and water and mix well. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook until cauliflower is very soft, about 7 minutes. Uncover pan, increase heat to medium-high and cook until excess moisture evaporates, about 5 minutes. Check and correct seasonings. Sprinkle with cilantro and garam masala and serve. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Savoring India,'' by Julie Sahni.

SAFFRON-``SMOTHERED'' CAULIFLOWER

This Sardinian recipe for ``smothered'' cauliflower demonstrates a popular style of vegetable cookery found in the Italian islands of Sicily and Sardinia. The smothering comes about from sealing in the flavors so the vegetable ``sweats''; that is, the vegetable releases its own moisture from the heat without the addition of water. It's delightful the next day served at room temperature as an antipasto and drizzled with a little olive oil.

1 (2-pound) head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into 6 wedges

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Pinch saffron threads crumbled in a mortar with 1/2 teaspoon salt

10 imported pitted green olives

Toss cauliflower pieces with olive oil in a large bowl. Toss again with saffron.

Place cut-up cauliflower in a large baking pan in a single layer. Sprinkle olives around in spaces in between. Cover pan tightly with foil so steam can't escape. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven about 1 hour, until cauliflower is tender. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Mediterranean Vegetables,'' by Clifford A. Wright.

BLUE CHEESE-GREEN ONION RISOTTO 

1/2 head cauliflower

8 green onions, thinly sliced

2/3 cup diced green peppers

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon chicken bouillon granules 

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream

Put cauliflower through a food processor using shredding blade. Put it in a microwavable casserole, add a couple of tablespoons water, cover and microwave on high power 7 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat, saute green onions and green peppers in butter and oil.

Remove cauliflower and drain it. When green peppers start to get soft, add cauliflower to skillet and stir in. Then stir in bouillon, white wine, blue cheese, Parmesan cheese and cream. Cook another 3 to 4 minutes and serve. Makes 5 servings.

From ``15-Minute Low-Carb Recipes,'' by Dana Carpender.

All about cauliflower

--The cauliflower name comes from two Latin terms - cauli (stem or stalk) and flor (flower). While cauliflower has been cultivated in Asia Minor and the Mediterranean for more than 2,000 years, it traveled to Europe in the early 17th century. Cauliflower has only been cultivated in this country as a commercial crop since the 1920s.

--Today, along with white cauliflower in markets, you'll find broccoflower (less expensive than white) and occasionally purple cauliflower. Broccoflower originated with a green cauliflower grown in Italy and has heads ranging from lime-green to yellow-green and a taste more like cauliflower (but a little sweeter) than broccoli. Most are smaller, lighter in weight, and less crisp and dense than white cauliflower. Purple cauliflower is purple-headed but turns pale green when cooked.

--Surprised at the high price ($2.49 per pound) of white cauliflower - which is in season year-round, with greatest supplies in fall and winter - we learned that the vegetable grows on a single stalk and requires a lot of labor-intensive work during cultivation, as the head (known as the curd) must be shielded from the sun (by the ribbed green leaves which growers periodically tie over the head) so it stays snowy white.

--When buying cauliflower, select clean, firm, compact heads that are white or creamy white (size doesn't affect quality). Leaves should be green and not limp. Avoid heads that are soft or have brown coloring or dark or black spotted curds (same goes for packaged florets). A medium head is about 6 inches in diameter and weighs about 2 pounds. Keep refrigerated, unwashed, in a plastic bag, up to a week prior to using. Cooked cauliflower, kept refrigerated, should be used within a couple of days.

--For eating raw or cooking, trim off the leaves and cut off the stem or stalk near the base of the head. Turn cauliflower upside down with stem facing up, then cut around the core to remove it. Rinse head. Separate the florets from the inner stem using a small paring knife - or cut the head or florets into slices if roasting or sauteing. You can also break the florets into smaller pieces by hand. Some prefer keeping the trimmed head whole when cooking for attractive presentation.

--Don't be put off by cauliflower odors (from plant acids in the vegetable that form odorous sulfur compounds when exposed to heat) that become stronger the longer cooked. To avoid such odors, don't overcook cauliflower.

-- Avoid using aluminum or iron utensils for cooking because cauliflower will turn yellow, brown or blue-green.

--You can steam, roast, microwave, saute, stir-fry, bake or grill cauliflower with excellent results. My favorite, hassle-free, fast way is microwaving (with just the water clinging to the cauliflower when rinsed). It's easy to check and thus avoid overcooking - and it takes only a few minutes, depending on the amount being cooked (test for doneness with a knife). Oven roasting (at 425 degrees for about 25 to 30 minutes) and sauteing work well, too, yielding a slightly different taste and texture (especially if the edges or elsewhere are tinged brown). Avoid boiling (unless in a soup) because cauliflower tends to get waterlogged, and you'll lose some of the vitamins.

--A good source of vitamin C, B vitamins folate and B6, a cup of cooked cauliflower, unadorned, has about 30 calories.

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) CAULIFLOWER

The sky's the limit on new tastes

Tony Ceniccola/The New York Times

(2 -- color) RIGATONI SALAD WITH GREEN CAULIFLOWER, CAPERS AND SAFFRON

(3 -- color) CAULIFLOWER GRATIN WITH PROSCIUTTO

(4) CAULIFLOWER AND POTATOES WITH SPICES

Box:

All about cauliflower (see text)