CATCH A FRILL-FREE DEAL AT ITALIAN FISHERMAN.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

BACK FROM POSITANO, an Italian fishing village and beach resort on the Amalfi coast, it seems almost providential that I should find out about a new eating place called the Italian Fisherman that popped up while I was gone and is now running full blast in Toluca Lake.

But despite its alluring name, this is strictly a fast-food place. In Italy, most prefer to eat more leisurely. In fact there's a strong anti-fast-food movement there.

And of course, the fare differs. No fresh anchovies or sea bream in Toluca Lake.

But give the Italian Fisherman credit. It does a pretty good job with sea bass ($8.75), especially mesquite broiled and finished with garlic butter. Ask for it lightly cooked and you'll undoubtedly be surprised at its palatability.

But don't expect any frills here. Sitting adjacent to a Baja Fresh Mexican Grill outlet, this Italian Fisherman evidently decided to be conceptually similar.

You go to the counter and order, then you pay at the cash register.

But if you order a salad, all the makings are in front of you, so you decide what salad you want, and the staffer will heap it onto your plate. You'll be happily shocked when you receive a small mountain of a salad dish.

Otherwise, in most cases your food will be delivered to your table.

Portions are pretty big at the Italian Fisherman, and for the most part, the food is fresh and tasty.

When you're asked if you want your fish seasoned Cajun- or teriyaki-style rather than with garlic butter, you know you're in an American version of the Italian Fisherman. And sorry, you won't find an olive oil-cooked fish option mentioned on the menu.

But the accompaniments are reasonably gratifying.

Warm, crunchy sourdough bread and spreadable herbal butter come with your order.

Thickish fries seem relatively free of oil and are delivered firm and warm.

Sauteed, red-skinned potatoes receive a flavor boost from onion and garlic.

And while rice has a positive frothiness, steamed veggies emerge fresh and crisp.

Pastas tried here seem, for all intents and purposes, well executed. One order of linguini with tender, moist seafood ($8.95) was more than enough for two on one occasion. And a tossing with the house ``delmatino'' sauce - a garlicky mix of marinara with eggplant, onion and tomatoes - boosts this dish no end.

Large, inviting pizzas, available from a slice to 18 inches, are dubbed Neapolitan-New York in style.

Our choice of a 15-inch one with roma tomatoes, garlic and basil ($13.70) one time was thoroughly enjoyed by a threesome.

Other items tried so far ranged from a fair-but-floury clam chowder (cup $1.95, bowl $3.95) to a good-tasting-but-could-be-fluffier battered fish (Icelandic cod) and chips ($6.95). There was an OK halibut ($9.95) plate (not quite as good as the sea bass) and a disappointing cucumber salad ($2.25) that's touted as ``Grandma's soon-to-be world famous.''

But no quarrel at all with an old-fashioned but not heavy-handed chicken parmesan ($6.50) effort.

The Italian Fisherman's food may not quite measure up to that of Positano, but there's considerably more on your plate - and it's a lot less expensive.

Believe me.

ITALIAN FISHERMAN

Food: Three stars - Value: Three stars

Where: 10760 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake.

Phone: [phone]

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday, from noon to 10 p.m. Sunday.

Recommended items: Pizzas, chicken parmesan, linguini with seafood, mesquite-broiled sea bass, sauteed potatoes.

How much: Everything under $10 except pizzas ($1.65 to $15.50) and swordfish ($10.95). No alcohol. All major credit cards except Discover.

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Photo:

Mario Pichardo makes a pizza at the Italian Fisherman in Toluca Lake.

Gene Blevins/Special to the Daily News