CASUAL SONA'S A SIMPLE PLEASURE.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic NOT TO BE confused with the haute Sona in West Hollywood West Hollywood A community of southern California northeast of Beverly Hills. It is mainly residential. Population: 36,600. , the new Sona's in Encino gets its name from its chef-owner Sona Grigorian. Sona's, in fact, is about as far from haute as a casual cafe can get. It's actually a spinoff of Grigorian's successful Jumpin' Java in Studio City, which is basically a breakfast and lunch spot that draws a hangout crowd, many from nearby CBS (Cell Broadcast Service) See cell broadcast. Studios. In its spacious Encino surroundings across the street from Encino Hospital, Sona's has many more chairs to fill than its older sister restaurant. Consequently, it adds to its menu of mostly egg and pancake specialties, salads, sandwiches and pastas, an ``after-5'' listing of eight entrees that include a respectable grilled lamb chop plate ($23.95) that pairs the juicy, tender chops with a red wine sauce Noun 1. wine sauce - white or veloute sauce with wine and stock variously seasoned with onions and herbs; for fish or meat sauce - flavorful relish or dressing or topping served as an accompaniment to food and adds garlic mashed potatoes n. pl. 1. Potatoes which have been boiled and mashed to a pulpy consistency, usu. with sparing addition of milk, salt, butter, or other flavoring. It is a popular accompaniment to a meat course [U.S., 1900's], providing bulk and calories to a meal. and rather pedestrian vegetables du jour. Though bistro fare today is often attractively plated, don't look for artistic presentation here. Sona's kitchen seemingly hates the idea of its efforts being considered classy or fancy. Plates have the expected food on them, and that's it. Case in point is Sona's tasty, well-cooked beef stew ($13.95) with shredded rather than cubed meat, mixed effectively with onions, tomatoes and sweet peppers, and spooned generously atop a bed of bulgur bul·gur also bul·ghur n. Cracked wheat grains, often used in Middle Eastern dishes. Also called bulgur wheat. [Ottoman Turkish bul . Despite its formidable flavor, it's about as ugly and unappetizing in appearance as an entree can be. However, both swordfish swordfish, large food and game fish, Xiphias gladius, of the warmer Atlantic and Pacific waters, related to the sailfish. It is named for its sharp, broad, elongated upper jaw, which it uses to flail and pierce its prey of smaller fish, rising beneath a school steak ($12.95) topped with a black bean black bean see castanospermum australe, erythrophleumchlorostachys. and bell pepper salsa and a 12-ounce New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of steak ($19.95) grilled to order reluctantly receive passable pass·a·ble adj. 1. That can be passed, traversed, or crossed; navigable: a passable road. 2. Acceptable for general circulation: passable currency. 3. nods in both looks and taste. And a whole trout ($9.95) was nicely moist, although not particularly good- looking. From the lengthy pasta list, a heaping serving of linguine Bolognese ($9.95) of standard appearance seemed to be missing something tastewise one evening, perhaps wine and/or cream to enrich. The most handsome of Sona's offerings is undoubtedly the starter with the not-so-pretty name, the item called ``munch and dunk'' ($7.95). It consists of a handful of fair-size shrimp and a green-toned, creamy, spinach-garlic sauce, plus wedges of garlic toast, all arranged rather dramatically. Incidentally, you can keep your bill lower by requesting a cup of soup or a small salad priced at only $1 with your ``after-5'' entree. The most recent $1 soup was one labeled garlic-vegetable that resembled a traditional Italian minestrone. Speaking of Italian reminders, chef Grigorian's garlicky gar·lick·y adj. Containing, tasting of, or smelling of garlic. Adj. 1. garlicky - relating to or tasting or smelling of garlic; "garlicky sauce" tomato-basil dip is spectacular. It comes automatically with pasta orders and can be had separately as a starter for $2.50. Also, a welcome gift of olive and nut spread, served with thin bread crusts, greets diners immediately after they're seated. Dessert choices here run from dessert crepes ($4.95) - there's a banana and melted chocolate-chip version - to a wedge of apple pie ($2.95) or a tortilla-wrapped chilled cheesecake creation with sauteed berries ($4.95) served on smallish plates minus decoration. Plain and simple. Moderately priced. But certainly not haute. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com SONA'S Food: Two stars - Service: Three stars - Wine: Two stars Where: 16240 Ventura Blvd., Encino. Phone: (818) 528-7755. Meals/hours: Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks from 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Food type: Modern American. Cost: Starters from $2.50 to $8, sandwiches and salads from $5 to $10, pastas and entrees from $8 to $24, desserts from $3 to $5. Credit cards: AE, MC, DC, V, Discover. Patio dining: Covered patio in front. Parking/valet: Valet parking. No fixed charge. Full bar: No. Beer and wine only. Wine/corkage: Limited list, strong on Washington state merlots. Bottlings as low as $19. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $8. Music/entertainment: No. Takeout/delivery: Takeout currently, delivery planned soon. Reservations: Helpful. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Owners Armen and Sona Grigorian present an assortment of offerings from their new cafe, Sona's, in Encino. David Sprague/Staff Photographer |
|
||||||||||||
Printer friendly
Cite/link
Email
Feedback
Reader Opinion