CALORIE EMPTOR: EAT, DRINK AND BE WARY.

Byline: Evan Henerson Staff Writer

For so many of us, the holidays are a time for consumption. Food, lots of it, lines every table of every party. Consequently, the time between Thanksgiving and New Year's is a calorie watcher's nightmare. All those cookies, all that egg nog ...

Before you go back to that buffet table for your third helping at what is now your seventh party, stop a minute and ask yourself a few questions. How much have you already eaten and are you really hungry for more? And how many parties - and buffets - do you have yet to visit before the eating madness subsides?

Nutritionists and weight counselors suggest you face the holiday food season with an open mind and a handful of tips. Think in terms of choices, not deprivation.

``The word 'restraint' stinks,'' says Chrissy Lomax-Primeau, a Weight Watchers ambassador in L.A. and Ventura counties. ``Restraint sounds like discipline. Think in terms of choices, and 'moderation' is a huge word.''

Following is a selection of tips on getting through the holiday eating season. Our experts are Lomax-Primeau, registered dietitian Bettye Nowlin - a nutritionist and spokesperson for the American Dietetic Association - and Netty Levine, a dietitian with Cedars-Sinai Medical Center.

Keep your expectations reasonable: During a time when Americans typically put on as many as 8 additional pounds, the holidays are not the season to set yourself a weight loss goal. Unless there's a marathon in your not-so-distant future, try instead to maintain, not gain.

Party-bound? Don't arrive starving: The hungrier you are when you leave the house, the more likely you are to overeat when you arrive. Since we typically have more control over what we eat and portion sizes at home, it makes sense to fill up at home and save the parties for light snacking.

On the other hand, a careful calorie counter can save up his indulgences for that one party where he knows he's in for a feast. Weight counselors don't recommend skipping meals, but that one party may end up being your one significant meal of the day.

``I don't think we've met ...'': The more you socialize, the less you'll eat. It's too easy to make return trips to the buffet table, particularly when you're at an event where you don't know anybody. Resolve to meet at least two new people per event. Walk around and socialize carrying a drink, not a plate of food. Don't sit by the food table and don't linger over it when you're loading up.

Keep a holiday food log: Particularly effective if you're hitting multiple parties. This way, you'll remember exactly how much you've eaten.

Walk, walk, walk: Or run, bike, get on the treadmill or swim. Whatever you normally do for exercise, increase it. If you typically exercise four days a week, increase it to six or seven during the holidays.

After a huge meal, grab an equally stuffed friend and take a walk around the block to help set your metabolism in motion. Those looking to lose weight will take a 45-minute brisk walk, says Nowlin. Maintainers go for 30 minutes.

Consider it a trade-off. If you expect to eat more than usual, exercise more to compensate for the extra calories.

Don't forget the veggies: Party hosts don't usually consult their caterers with their guests' waistlines in mind. If you're asked to bring a dish - or if you want to volunteer - bring raw vegetables with a low calorie dip, or a salad. This way, you can be certain that there will be at least one healthful dish on the table to sample.

Survey the buffet table before you start loading up, and be picky. When filling your plate, make sure fresh fruits and/or steamed vegetables account for half. The other half should be evenly divided between carbohydrates and protein, and no making skyscrapers out of the rich stuff. Turkey is lower in fat and calories than stuffing, gravy and pie. By eating the healthy stuff first, you'll also fill up faster.

``Double chocolate pistachios? Thanks, but I really shouldn't'': Fattening things often come in small packages. Whenever possible, avoid foods like crackers, cheese wedges, candy and dip. A handful of peanuts is equal to more than 100 calories.

Eat slowly or nibble. The food won't taste any better if you bolt it. As Lomax-Primeau says, ``Take the racing stripes off your fork.''

``Just water, thanks'': Juices, sodas, smoothies and blended coffee drinks are rich in calories as well, especially when somebody throws whipped cream on them. In addition to supplying you with empty calories, alcohol will often stimulate your appetite as well. Since a glass of wine equals nearly 80 calories, Levine recommends alternating a sip of wine with a sip of water.

In addition to being calorie free, water can create a feeling of fullness and curb your appetite.

``I must get the recipe'': That's Nowlin's suggestion for a polite refusal to spare the feelings of the host who insists you can't leave before sampling the lemon tart. Equally gracious: ``Thanks, but I just can't take another bite.''

``Make up your mind before you go to somebody's house to just say no, and make it stick without hurting their feeling,'' says Nowlin.

If you happen to be the one giving the party, send the leftovers home with your guests.

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(1 -- cover -- color) Dip in?

Smart holiday eating can keep you out of trouble

(2 -- color) When the holiday buffet beckons, avoid the fat-laden chips, dips, cheese and baked goods, opting instead for the more healthful fruits and veggies.

(3) `Make up your mind before you go to somebody's house to just say no, and make it stick without hurting their feelings.'

Bettye Nowlin

registered dietitian

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CRUNCHING THE NUMBERS

Don't get us wrong. We're not saying you shouldn't enjoy yourself at holiday gatherings, but if you're worried about gaining weight, we suggest wise grazing. You can enjoy some treats by passing up other high-caloric foods. We've put together a few calorie comparisons with information from food packages and ``The Corinne T. Netzer 2001 Calorie Counter'' (Dell; $6.99) reference book. Exact calorie counts vary according to brands or ingredients used by the host or hostess, so unless you know the cook uses only low-fat ingredients, assume the calorie counts are close to those listed below.